tech 2 needed to flush system? car stops for crap.
so i was thinking maybe it needed a good flush. i tried to gravity bleed it and it all had steady fluid. but with the abs system do i need the tech 2 to activate it so i can flush the fluid properly? i have access to a motive bleeder if that would work.
the car is mildly fast and i need it to stop. my tb ss stops way better. i cant go bigger because i run 15's on the track. so opinions? answers? im listening.
Im in the same boat. I just put Hawk Pads and I reused the rotors I had since they were perfect. I bled the brakes and used two tin cans of ATE super blue and the car stops like Crap! I have to really step on the brakes to get it to stop. I bled the brakes Alot and I was wondering if I should just suck it up and have the Stealership do it.
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If you do trigger your ABS tho, the old fluid in there will get cycled through, then you can always just re-bleed the brakes, although the fluid in the ABS housing will probably be a lot fresher than the old stuff in the brake lines.
In other words, suck out the old fluid from the m/c, and refill with new, fresh fluid. Do this on a rainy day, when you can find a parking lot that's a little slick, and do a couple of panic stops in the lot, to trigger the ABS, and then it will be "flushed". Then bleed the brakes the 'old fashioned' way.
For the ABS, here's a quote from my archives:
"According to the 2001 shop manual, the valves are opened during initialization. The control module performs one initialization test during each ignition cycle. Initialization occurs when one set of the following conditions occur:
1) The engine speed is at least 500rpm and the stoplamp switch is NOT applied.
OR
2) The vehicle speed is greater than 10mph and the stoplamp switch IS applied.
The initialization sequence cycles each solenoid valve and the pump motor (as well as a the necessary relays) for approximately 1.5 seconds.
After you do the initial round of bleeding to get fluid in the system, it sounds like you should crack open a bleeder and then start the engine at least once (maybe more) per wheel. 6mph sounds reasonable: under 10mph, over 500rpm, and (presumably) no foot on the pedal."
I've done this in my garage on stands. Secure the rotors with a nut or two. I can't swear it worked, but it's certainly worth a try before going to a dealership.
BobP
Finding anyone that actually knows what the hell they are doing is impossible.










