SFC Weld vs Bolt on?
Welded SFC's are going to be alot stronger, and less likely to move on you. We weld in all of the sub-frames we put on any car. I can get you set up with some BMR tubular sub-frames. They are quality pieces. Here's a link to our online catalog:
http://www.madmanandcoracing.com/sho...spx?itemid=122
Give me a call if you'd like to order them. Our number is 225-673-3533.
http://www.madmanandcoracing.com/sho...spx?itemid=122
Give me a call if you'd like to order them. Our number is 225-673-3533.
Weld them, even if you get bolt in SFC, I bolted mine in and plan to have them welded, but you really have to watch the bolts and get them torqued down otherwise they WILL shift.
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I went bolt on, but I plan to weld them in. I wasn't sure I would like the effect, but I can tell you that as SOON as I even sat in the car after having them installed, I knew I would never take them off. That was almost four years ago now and I still haven't had them welded in, but I would not drive one of these cars without them.
Like many have mentioned welding is always going to be the best option. However we have had good luck with our bolt in style and many cusomers purchase the bolt on SFC's with intentions to weld them at a later date... this is always a nice option to have. Our bolt in SFC's are the same as the weld in, same connectors just different bolt kits and brackets.
I posted a link below to show the styles of SFC's UMI has to offer. If you have any questions please feel free to ask.
F-Body Subframe Connectors
I hope that helps some,
Ryan
I posted a link below to show the styles of SFC's UMI has to offer. If you have any questions please feel free to ask.
F-Body Subframe Connectors
I hope that helps some,
Ryan
TECH Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 5,798
Likes: 16
From: St.Charles MO
I went bolt on, but I plan to weld them in. I wasn't sure I would like the effect, but I can tell you that as SOON as I even sat in the car after having them installed, I knew I would never take them off. That was almost four years ago now and I still haven't had them welded in, but I would not drive one of these cars without them.
HAHA... Thanks everyone for you opinions... Im taking in everything everyone says into mind. Ive gotta motor (never been dyno'd) but its pushin anywhere from 500-600 hp all natural aspiration power. I had weld ons on the old car but i totaled that one out when i got lost in the spin of doom. Thats another story though. I know that i will need sfc though, theres none on the roller body in getting ready. The old car with the SFCs would twist like crazy. Would 3pt SFC be a better idea?
HAHA... Thanks everyone for you opinions... Im taking in everything everyone says into mind. Ive gotta motor (never been dyno'd) but its pushin anywhere from 500-600 hp all natural aspiration power. I had weld ons on the old car but i totaled that one out when i got lost in the spin of doom. Thats another story though. I know that i will need sfc though, theres none on the roller body in getting ready. The old car with the SFCs would twist like crazy. Would 3pt SFC be a better idea?
http://www.madmanandcoracing.com/sho....aspx?itemid=9
We also offer BMR's PHB for the cars that see a little more street use:
http://www.madmanandcoracing.com/sho...spx?itemid=151
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 635
Likes: 0
From: Largo,FL
Dont mean to hijack but I need a set of SFC as well. What is the advantage of 3 point vs the box style vs tubular SFC? Do 3 point SFC cause any clerence problems for true duel or Y pipe exhaust setups?
Last edited by RJB01camaross; Oct 4, 2010 at 05:27 PM.
IMHO 3 point SFC's aren't necessary. A set of tubular BMR SFC's are plenty of support for these cars.