Stopping distance between a few setups - if anyone cares to guesstimate...?
10-14-2010, 01:03 PM
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Stopping distance between a few setups - if anyone cares to guesstimate...? I am curious about the actual stopping distance of a relatively warmed up car using some different setups. If anyone has experience or actual numbers, that would be ideal, but I'll settle for educated guesses...
60-0 Stopping Distances...
Bone Stock Everything - 117 (from tests)
Assume on all below that we are talking about stainless lines added.
1. Hawk HPS Pads
2. Hawk HP+ Pads
3. C5 Conversion, Stock Pads
4. C5 Conversion, Hawk HPS
5. C5 Conversion, Hawk HP+
So, what do you guys think these stopping distances are from 60-0?
60-0 Stopping Distances...
Bone Stock Everything - 117 (from tests)
Assume on all below that we are talking about stainless lines added.
1. Hawk HPS Pads
2. Hawk HP+ Pads
3. C5 Conversion, Stock Pads
4. C5 Conversion, Hawk HPS
5. C5 Conversion, Hawk HP+
So, what do you guys think these stopping distances are from 60-0?
10-14-2010, 01:28 PM
#2
If everything else is stock and the same in between tests, it is likely that a test of a single stop from 60mph will all produce nearly identical results because any of those can produce more torque than the grip of the tires can handle anyway.
If you upgraded grip, there might be a few differences that start to show up, but it isn't going to be greatly different at just 60mph. However, with higher speeds and a repeated braking test they will start to sort themselves a little.
1. C5 Conversion, Hawk HP+
2. Hawk HP+ Pads
3. C5 Conversion, Hawk HPS
4. Hawk HPS Pads
5. C5 Conversion, Stock Pads
The difference between the C5 and the standard components are not nearly as substantial as the difference between pad compound. However, C5 calipers are more durable than the Fbody ones if you track the car, and the C5 disks are a slight upgrade from the Fbody ones if you can run a 17 in wheel. As far as numbers, I doubt anyone has tested this anywhere near scientifically.
If you upgraded grip, there might be a few differences that start to show up, but it isn't going to be greatly different at just 60mph. However, with higher speeds and a repeated braking test they will start to sort themselves a little.
1. C5 Conversion, Hawk HP+
2. Hawk HP+ Pads
3. C5 Conversion, Hawk HPS
4. Hawk HPS Pads
5. C5 Conversion, Stock Pads
The difference between the C5 and the standard components are not nearly as substantial as the difference between pad compound. However, C5 calipers are more durable than the Fbody ones if you track the car, and the C5 disks are a slight upgrade from the Fbody ones if you can run a 17 in wheel. As far as numbers, I doubt anyone has tested this anywhere near scientifically.
10-14-2010, 01:44 PM
#3
Pads and tires are the two most critical parts of a 60-0 time.
I sell C5 conversions. I sell all kinds of rotors, and SS lines, and brake pads too.... But it comes down to this. Pads grab the rotors, and tires grab the road. If one or both suck, the car won't stop. If the tires aren't so hot, you could have ZR1 brakes and it won't stop well. If the tires are awesome and the pads suck it won't stop well either because you can't come close to using all the tire's ability to stop.
Frankly the best bang for the buck is upgrading the pads on stock sized brakes. Rotors don't magically make the car stop shorter, though drilled rotors might make the car take longer to stop since you are missing swept area. Rotors are about things like durability, cooling, wear, and warp resistance.
C5 upgrades are sort of cost effective. The pads cost more than F-body, the rotors are actually a little less most of the time. Many think they need a C5 setup to get directionally vaned front rotors (which run cooler)-but I have a set of '98-02 F-body fronts that are directionally vented and are direct bolt ons. In fact that's what I run for my track days with a set of track pads (and stainless lines and good fluid). But C5 calipers are basically the same design and C5 pads basically the same size as F-body stuff. The rotors are 1" bigger, which moves the caliper .5" out you get slightly more torque from that, but not enough to trump a different pad compound....
In theory I see your list running as such: 5, 4, 2, 3, 1 in terms of increasing levels of stopping power weighing the pad compounds you list (and there are others to consider) and rotor size throwing out all other variables.
If you want to give me a call, I'd be happy to run over options. I'd also like to hear more about what you are trying to do. I have a lot of different things I can offer, including most everything on your list above, and I think a few better options too.
I sell C5 conversions. I sell all kinds of rotors, and SS lines, and brake pads too.... But it comes down to this. Pads grab the rotors, and tires grab the road. If one or both suck, the car won't stop. If the tires aren't so hot, you could have ZR1 brakes and it won't stop well. If the tires are awesome and the pads suck it won't stop well either because you can't come close to using all the tire's ability to stop.
Frankly the best bang for the buck is upgrading the pads on stock sized brakes. Rotors don't magically make the car stop shorter, though drilled rotors might make the car take longer to stop since you are missing swept area. Rotors are about things like durability, cooling, wear, and warp resistance.
C5 upgrades are sort of cost effective. The pads cost more than F-body, the rotors are actually a little less most of the time. Many think they need a C5 setup to get directionally vaned front rotors (which run cooler)-but I have a set of '98-02 F-body fronts that are directionally vented and are direct bolt ons. In fact that's what I run for my track days with a set of track pads (and stainless lines and good fluid). But C5 calipers are basically the same design and C5 pads basically the same size as F-body stuff. The rotors are 1" bigger, which moves the caliper .5" out you get slightly more torque from that, but not enough to trump a different pad compound....
In theory I see your list running as such: 5, 4, 2, 3, 1 in terms of increasing levels of stopping power weighing the pad compounds you list (and there are others to consider) and rotor size throwing out all other variables.
If you want to give me a call, I'd be happy to run over options. I'd also like to hear more about what you are trying to do. I have a lot of different things I can offer, including most everything on your list above, and I think a few better options too.
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10-14-2010, 02:01 PM
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That is pretty ironic. I only threw the c5 stuff in there to avoid hearing everyone say "do the c5 conversion, blah blah blah." That backfired!
I'll give you a call Sam.
I'll give you a call Sam.
10-15-2010, 12:05 AM
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It makes sense that the C5 conversion w/ stock pads would have the least stopping power, while the C5 conversion w/ Hawk HP+ would have the most.
10-15-2010, 12:15 PM
#7
I was referring to the "second" list, Haz-matt's. Sorry, I skipped the "original" list.
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18 SCCA National Championships in house, many more for our customers prove we know our stuff.Talk is cheap, results matter.
Check out our KONI prices, our Master Cylinder Brace, and new Xtracker Hub/wheel bearing upgrade kits!
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
18 SCCA National Championships in house, many more for our customers prove we know our stuff.Talk is cheap, results matter.
Check out our KONI prices, our Master Cylinder Brace, and new Xtracker Hub/wheel bearing upgrade kits!
