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You know say what you want. You sir have not driven or rode in my car ,so don't tell me how it rides or handles.
Your right, but ive ridden in cars setup similar to yours (with dragshocks atleast) and reading posts on here with other that have dragshocks match the description to a tee.
Your car has alot of body roll in the picture. Maybe you should tune your suspension.
lol... silly drag head. Typical, most with no experience think you need to have zero roll, and super stiff suspension where as that couldn't be further from the truth. I think my suspension is "in tune" for what it is considering I drove to that event pictured, made no changes what-so-ever to my car (tire pressure was even set for street driving at the low 30psi) ran with and beat some modded C5 and Z06s and drove home again with no changes. My car is a full weight street car with simple bolt ons. Koni SAs, Strano Springs, Strano swaybars, Adj PHB, SFC/STB (although these did nothing for me), Nitto NT05's, stock replacement blank rotors and Hawk HPS pads. Then headers, Y-pipe, catback - thats it.
As for body roll, check out these vettes going through a similar turn to mine:
This thread has run its course. Oh at the Texas Mile all cars are going to get light in the front end. Why? because air gets trapped under them . Lowering the ride height and venting the air out from the engine compartment helps. Go back to your slow speed play courses
Your getting confused with what I was saying again. Generally when the front end "gets light" and starts to float its because the shocks cannot damp the springs. The front end is lifting, making the springs lift and its the shocks job (with rebound) to control that lift, and how quickly it happens. And when the car is bouncing its again because the shock cannot control the spring. Springs naturally want to "bounce", the shock is supposed to slow the bounce to a stopping point. So if you hit a bump and feel the front end bounce up and down a few times the shock isn't doing one of its jobs.
Search for people on here that do top speed runs (check road race section) and see what they do to deal with it. Ill start you off by saying one of the first things they do is fix the dampening problem, not aerodynamics.
Originally Posted by 1lejohn
The both of you never gave any info out on your cars. I'm just a saying
Try running a stock suspension with 500NA HP and 700 on N2O. Its going to get ugly.
Back from the dead. Not trying to start or continue a pissing match. A little update. The car has run a best of a 10.0 at 137 on spray and a Hoosier slick with a 1.34 60'. Thats the best the car has ever run or 60'. It will run 10.50-10.40's on motor at 127-129 on drag radials or slicks. It picks up 60' time on slicks and MPH on radials. It will dead hook on either type of tire launching from idel to about 3k rpm. We have N2O tuning to do. We have been fighting a MSD timing twister problem as well as the Texas heat. The car will leave wheels up but twists bad and is squating bad on the right rear. It looks like we will need a drag bar to address this new found problem. The shocks will not fix it. The car is still street driven and is presently in street trim. It has the 18's with BFG KDWs and both anti sway bars on it and the shocks adjusted for street driving.
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