I had a UMI trans relocation crossmember with Spohn adj full legnth torque arm. Hated it. Noise during starts, stops, shifting, etc. Gear whine is amplified thru the cabin. Collects dust in the garage now.

 

I have a yank crossmember and relocation of the random tech arm on it and it's noisey .I tried rubber mounting it but it didn't help much .

 

I have a bmr relocation bracket and only get a "thump" over speed bumps and some shifts as the top of the bracket is touching the centre hump. nothing that will drive a person nuts though. On a side note, my car is a 96 z28 Auto and was stock down to the paper filter when i put the relocation bracket in. Under hard excelleration it kept breaking tranny mounts. I went through 3 the first 2 months i had the car before coming across this mod and not a problem since. any one have an idea why i was going through tranny mounts like that on stock power?

 

You wanna sell it? im in the market for one.

 

I'm reading this stuff and it brings up my dilemma with my tq arm relocation I'd like to share incase anybody has any feedback.

So at one point I had a spohn tranny mouned tq arm connected to my tranny and I was also running a prothane tranny mount bushing. It connected to the factory clamshell off the tailshaft with a poly bushing, seen here.



I had my pinion set to about -1.5. It launched awesome and I had no vibration.


When I put my 12bolt in I also relocated the TA. I used a Yank crossmember. Since then I have used a pinion angle of almost 0 in order to reduce vibration, but it still feels like its hooking up ok. But no matter what I do I still get a lot of vibration in higher rpms/speeds. I know it related to the torque arm/crossmember design, never mind my rear started a slight whine almost instantly.

So I have a couple questions.

1) Might I see any kind of a benefit putting a stock rubber tranny mount back in?

2) Would I see any kind of a benefit switching crossmembers to say a BMR?

Here is my reasoning regarding question 2. The yank piece has one mount location, no adjustments for instant center like the BMR. But the real question is, look at the way it mounts the TA bushing, it uses 2 bolts (top/bottom) while BMR/UMI uses 4.





So I am wondering if I am getting some type of deflection in the bushing by only having a top and bottom bolt vs an equal distribution of pressure with bolts in all 4 locations?

The main reson I brought this up as well is because I disconnect my TA when I switch to an ory and one time I put my TA bushing in the opposite way and didn't realize it. The vibration was ridiculous. Same vibration as before but greatly intensified.

Does anybody have any experience or opinions on this? I've been dealing with it for years, messing with my pinion angle, etc, I have no other options, I'd be willing to try a different crossmember, but honestly I am almost about ready to put it back on the tailshaft.

 

I'm retracting these statements, mine is pretty smooth. Turned out I had another issue and have since gotten it fixed and the car rides 20 times better.

 

So out of curiosity what was the issue?

 

I am pretty curious also, what was the actual problem you had?

 

Turned out to be the DS. Installer error, I take the blame. I went through 2 known good DSs so I had eliminated it as a problem in my head. This last time of removing it I found the issue of it not being seated correctly in the rear end yoke which was causing hell once up to speed. I fixed it and the car feels completely different, even at speeds where it previously didn't actually vibrate. Car just feels so much smoother. Me =

 

I have a BMR relcator with a UMI adjustable torque arm using a UMI poly E-bushing. Prior to installing these pieces I had poly/rod UMI LCAs on relcations brackets and a poly/rod panhard rod. I also have poly motor mounts and the OEM tranny mount. The base vibration in the car really didn't seem to change that much when I went to the new torque arm setup. I can feel bumps or road gaps a touch more in the seat, but it's not loud at all. I would say 90% of what I do hear from the rear end is due to the rod ends on the axle and not the relocation bracket. I fought driveline vibes for a while that were pinion angle related and I believe exacerbated by my LCA relocation brackets that were pushing the axle rearward thus pulling the slip yoke out about 1/2 to 3/4". After shortening up the single adjustable LCAs to center up the rear tires in the wheel wells and setting the pinion angle per the Madman method (-1.5 degrees to the ground) my driveline is perfectly smooth well into the triple digit speeds. I still get some clunk over rough pavement, but it's mostly noise from the rod ends and not rough in the seat. The benefit is that the car flat hooks up, and I went from spinning through half of second to not even breaking the tires loose in 1st. The slight shifter rattle I used to get it now gone, and it doesn't flex all over the place as I get on or off the gas either. Definitely a worthwhile mod!

 

Thanks for letting us know, at least you got everything all figured out and the car drives much better.

 

Got the BMR one and I love it. Car shifts alot better.

 

In the market for a relocation crossmember (T56). Anyone have exhaust clearence issues? Car is lowered on strano springs and running ARH headers and ORY. I would expect BMR to have more room with the tubular design.

 

The torque arm bushing we supply is a softer durometer than a lot of polyurethane bushings. I honestly don't think changing this bushing to rubber would change a single thing. I hope that helps.

 

Clearance issues will really only show them self with a true dual set-up as opposed to an ORY with most full length TA's.

 

We don't have any clearance issues with our relocation kit. I actually think our design is a little more compact than the others.

I hope that helps!
Ryan

 

If you still want it you can have it if you pick it up.