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What should I get?

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Old Feb 9, 2011 | 03:46 AM
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Default What should I get?

So after purchasing full bolt on's for my trans am, I have about 600$ left over and was recommended by member to upgrade suspension. Problem is, I'm a total tard when it comes knowing anything about suspension. My car is lowered, I don't know how much, I bought it lowered, but I heard LCA relocation brackets is recommended, as well as LCA's, and maybe a PHB? I looked up a bunch on the BMR website, but I don't know what any of that non-adjustable, adjustable, double adjustable, and on-car adjustable crap means. I need advise please.
Thanks.
C.
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Old Feb 9, 2011 | 03:49 AM
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Sub-frame connectors. Stiffen up the body and keep the quarter panel from dimpling.
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Old Feb 9, 2011 | 04:08 AM
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SFC are a last mod type thing, most of the AutoX and road course guys swear by NOT using them. Drag racers swear they help. I've had 3 F-bodies, one car had them 2 did not, there was VERY little difference between any of them to be honest.

Shocks should be your first consideration after an adjustable PHB (center the rearend from it being lowered)

First and foremost what are your intentions for the car?

Second is to figure out which springs you have, and if they are worth a damn.

Third give Sam Strano a call, he will be able to walk you through which ever direction you wish to go with the car and what types of products you should be looking for.

Drag, AutoX, Road Course, sporty Daily Driver, all rounder all carry their own concerns and require different things to achieve successfully.
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Old Feb 9, 2011 | 07:05 AM
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Originally Posted by djsanchez2
SFC are a last mod type thing, most of the AutoX and road course guys swear by NOT using them. Drag racers swear they help. I've had 3 F-bodies, one car had them 2 did not, there was VERY little difference between any of them to be honest.

Shocks should be your first consideration after an adjustable PHB (center the rearend from it being lowered)

First and foremost what are your intentions for the car?

Second is to figure out which springs you have, and if they are worth a damn.

Third give Sam Strano a call, he will be able to walk you through which ever direction you wish to go with the car and what types of products you should be looking for.

Drag, AutoX, Road Course, sporty Daily Driver, all rounder all carry their own concerns and require different things to achieve successfully.

The T/A is my DD, but this summer its getting cammed/clutch/gears. It's going to be sporting c6 z06 wheels, 18 rear, 17 front, running Nitto 555r DR's, hopefully I'll have room for them. I'm overseas for the next month so I can't look at the springs, even if I could, I don't know what I am looking for.

Adjustable PHB you say? Any particular branch recommended?

Would the LCA relocation kit make more room for the tires? It seems to keep coming up in discussions.

Like I said its my DD, it'll see the track maybe once or twice a month.
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Old Feb 9, 2011 | 08:11 AM
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Originally Posted by BlackIceBlue
The T/A is my DD, but this summer its getting cammed/clutch/gears. It's going to be sporting c6 z06 wheels, 18 rear, 17 front, running Nitto 555r DR's, hopefully I'll have room for them. I'm overseas for the next month so I can't look at the springs, even if I could, I don't know what I am looking for.

Adjustable PHB you say? Any particular branch recommended?

Would the LCA relocation kit make more room for the tires? It seems to keep coming up in discussions.

Like I said its my DD, it'll see the track maybe once or twice a month.
First and foremost I would definitely recommend an adjustable panhard (PHR002) which you will need to center the rear end since the car is lowered. Also since it appears you are going to be going the more drag race oriented route I would look at lower control arms (MTCA002) and lower control arm relocation brackets (CAB001 or CAB002). These couple parts will definitely get you going in the right direction and are well within your budget. If there is anything I can do for you let me know.

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Old Feb 9, 2011 | 12:30 PM
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I took a different approach than many and did the structural improvements first with a STB and welded SFRs before changing shocks and sways -- others who do it in reverse say they don't notice the differences much that the STB & SFRs make. Better shocks seem to mask some of the unibody f-body design compromises, so that's your best bang for the buck.
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