getcha 01

iTrader: (4)

My 01 Ws6 I have had for 3 yrs and put 30k miles on it and the shocks were pretty wore in the rear when I bought the car. I took it to the track a lot the first year and have since been laid off and on from work so havnt made it but 2-3x a year and it is a D/D now. I have most boltons like LT's, ORY,ported stock T/B, ls6 int etc, built M6,LS7 clutch, rebuilt entire rear but is still OEM torsen T2 w/3:42's, OEM axles and fuzion ZRi rear tires(stickiest full street tires I have found). ANYWAY I put off rear shocks about 3x now when I have the tranny out or fabbed SFC's and tunnel brace, poly t/a and trans mounts mainly because the shocks I want are drag shocks like QA1 and are more $ than I've made in 3 months in recent months. I really need shocks bad now, its the last mod that is really a NEED in my opinion that I havnt done, being that I've modded the brakes,drivetrain etc....I dont need full 12 ways anymore and am done modding engine for now, but I dont want just a OEM "performance shock" incase I get to the track this spring. I run 12.40-12.50s w/1.7 60' @112mph with drag radials, but past year only the street tires I run with and have ran 12.70s 2.0 60' @110mph and my next step is relocate T/A and need a rear shock to help squat, but also needs to handle D/Driving for under $100 pair. tokico has non adj. rears for $50, not sure if its a pair and comp/eng has 3 way adj drags for $50 rear only and doubt its a pair either. What would you guys do in my position? I really need rears under $100, and if they have to be non drag then so be it because I need quality also. Thanks

getcha 01

iTrader: (4)

I know I need to figure out how to shorten my damn threads on here, but I still have no idea what to do about shocks in the rear like...for d/d ws6 that has full OFF ROAD exhaust, engine boltons, no suspension mods other than torque arm and tranny poly mounts/bushings, I race when I can so I need a real shock, not a edelbrock IAS performance whatever, the d/d quality I dont care about near as much as how they work at the track, im untuned still and have ran 12.49 with E.T. streets on 3k launch, I usually will run with fuzion ZRi's on rear and have went 12.70's on them on a 2k launch, im hoping to loose weight with a/c delete, AIR is gone already, but u get that picture. Im going to drop about 50lbs up front soon and about 100lbs thru the rest of the car and ad sfc's, maybe a ford 8.8 etc...I have a built m6 with ls7 clutch and my goal from the begining is to run 11.99 with the fuzion zri's (no street slicks) and ive been on layoff from work off and on since doing the mods 2yrs ago and I have slowly got around to quick times with very little money and smart racing being I have that OEM rearend, I did weld axle tubes, went thru torsen 2 etc but I wont launch it over 2500 with the fuzions even. I have .7 tenths to go and traction/stock rear is the big deal now, I went 13.1 stock and dropped only .4 tenths with street tires after all boltons but no tune cause of money. I was told by many people that with my 1/4 mph and boltons with a tune I should improve driving quality+1/4. It wont happen with bad shocks....

BMR Sales2

iTrader: (40)

A cheap rear drag shock that works pretty well is the Competition Engineering 3 way adjustable rear shocks, they are by no means the best and I totally recommend the Strange single or double adjustable shocks over them but if money is your number one concern and you are looking for something that will work they may be the ticket for you. I have used them on a few cars I have put together that have cut 1.3-1.4 60ft times.

whytryz28

iTrader: (28)

Got a part number?