czechnuts

Ok Im lookin to get The strut tower brace and sub frame connectors for sure. Curious about the traction bar/ tubular trailing arms. Now my question is is a standard tower brace good or the 3 point? Is there really a differance? Same with the connectors. Are the bolt on ones just as good as the welded on and is the 3 point worth the money. Lastly Anyone use this traction bars? Are they even any good? What other stuff thats out there worth getting vs not wasting mony on?

BMR Sales2

iTrader: (40)

I can definitely help you out with your questions. The 3 point strut tower brace is a gimmick used to try make people feel like they are getting a better piece. The third point generally mounts to the cowl/firewall which gives absolutely no extra rigidity because of the thin guage metal used to mount that extra third point.

Weld-on subframe connectors will always be more rigid and solid then a set of bolt-on subframe connectors, if the bolts for the bolt-on connectors loosen up even the smallest amount it will allow flex in the chassis. The 3 point subframe connectors are a good option if you are using a tunnel mounted torque arm that mounts where the tunnel brace bolts to other wise 2 point subframe connectors will be more than sufficent.

By traction bars I assume you are meaning rear lower control arms, if so these are very important to helping the car launch, aid traction, and avoid wheel hop. These are one of the very first parts we recommend people doing mods to their suspension.

czechnuts

Ya I had seen plenty of tubular control arm and came across the traction bar version. Havnt seen or heard of any one using them so by that I'd assume their not that popular. I in time to go completly tubular but that takes time and money. Just wanted to know which i should do 1st and which are good compared to just a sales ploy. Oh I see the parnhard bar as a replacment, but what about the other bar...in which I'm unsure of the name...do they sell a replacment for it? No sence in cutting corners if thats my goal.

czechnuts

Ok I just checked out your site and answered my question. It's the relocation bar you sell in which I was refuring to.

99FormulaM6r

iTrader: (2)

I'd save your money on the STB, 4th gen fbodies don't use "struts" and don't carry much load through the top of the shock tower.

Also, is your suspension otherwise stock? What do you use your car for? I'm just asking because there might be other things right off the bat to throw your money at (ie, shocks).

And, I'm a bit confused about your last two posts....you're looking at LCA's and a PHB? Or a PHB relocation kit? If you're not going to run exhaust that requires more room, there's no reason to get a PHB relocation kit (actually, the stock location is better).

BlueBird346

iTrader: (13)

I think hes talking about the LCA relocation brackets. They will give you more straight line traction but hurt handling. It all depends on what you want to do with the car.

99FormulaM6r

iTrader: (2)

He could be, but I've never heard of that called a "relocation bar", and it was right after the PHB being mentioned.

OP, it would help if you were more specific about what you're talking about, there's the panhard bar (PHB), lower control arms (LCA's), sway bars, etc. etc.

czechnuts

I knew what the PHB was I was talking about the other bar above it. I hadn't seen any actual names for it. From what I I understood from BMI's site that was "name" they used. It's a Lakewood piece, part#LAK-21700. Of corse it was around $300...so if it wasn't worth it than I'll save my cash.

99FormulaM6r

iTrader: (2)

That's the upper PHB bar (I know what you mean now). Yeah, if you're not having problems with exhaust fitment, I'd pass. To be clear, was this what you meant? It's from a different site, sorry....

Also, again, what do you want to change with your car? Maybe we can make other suggestions

czechnuts

Ya that one. I had seen it but I never looked close enough at it till I went to UMI's site. Thats when the light bulbs got brighter! lol But I'm just starting out. In time I intend to do alot. Just have to in sections do to cash. Was just curious were to start. I know some areas to start...like for one biggie is connecters..T-top creek is annoying!!

99FormulaM6r

iTrader: (2)

Alright, I understand. Is this just a street car? Seeing strip duty as well? Auto-x? Do you have problems hooking?

For a street car, I seriously stress getting better shocks. The stock shocks don't have very good dampening, which just gets worse with age/miles. An upgrade to something like Koni's or Bilsteins (cheaper and still good) makes a huge difference in ride, handling, and stability. In fact, upgrading to Koni's got rid of a lot of my rattling issues....someone on here put it this way: Would you rather put bracing under your car if you were getting hit with a hammer or get rid of the hammer? Not saying SFC's aren't worth it on every car, just saying that proper dampening makes the chassis seem much better than without proper proper control.

EDIT: I should say, I don't have T-tops, but the same principles apply.

czechnuts

Ya I just upgraded my rear shocks a couple weeks ago. Aside from some minor engine upgrades , in sutch( TB bypass, 160 ther, air foil, K&N and intake elbow, plugs n wires, shift kit, muffler, fan switch, and lowered it) it's still rather stock. just looking at a good starting point. It's been to the track but it's been some years and I wasnt the driver either. seems to hook good on the road....but it can always be better.

MidwestChassis

iTrader: (5)

What is the vehicle details?

czechnuts

As far as? You lost me.

JD_AMG

to what? and why not the front shocks as well?
If you are on lowering springs (or even stock springs for that matter, but especially lowering springs) and want to get rid of noises/rattles from the car hitting bumps good shocks are a must - those noises are happening because the stock/inadequate shocks are letting the car just slap against bumps sending rattles into the cabin.
Also what springs are you on?

czechnuts

My front were fine. No issues there. Its the creek from T-tops as the car twists goin into driveways. That were the connectors come in to play. My rears took a **** from being old and weight from a road trip...not to mention my bump stops are GONE. As far as what kind of spring I have...not really sure. Got them from a local guy from one of the car clubs around my area. he told me But its been a lil bit and don't remember.

Badazz 97 TA

iTrader: (18)

Your so vague with every post. im soo confused

99FormulaM6r

iTrader: (2)

It's really hard to help unless you have some details....what color are your shocks? Also, how do you know your fronts are "fine"?

Arctic2002ss

SFCs and LCAs, yes. Shocks and SFCs were my most noticeable mods. Torque arm was noticeable too. STB, no. I can take mine (2 point) off and on and don't really feel a difference. I keep it on the car though because it does look good.

czechnuts

Well I know their good because of the ride. Their not leaking. Its still rather stiff when pushing the front end down. This is the kind info i was looking for. Thank you. Which torque arm you use? Meaning adjustable or not? Trans attached or relocated? My shocks are Upgraded KYB's. So their white. Not sure how much more info other than stock I could give aside from what I have?