License2Ill

iTrader: (1)

I did use the search but they were some rather old threads.

Looking for some current input.

Nothing that causes very abusive wear....but something a little more aggressive than stock.

If choice has to be made to lean a little more on one or the other high speed stabil vs.....cornering...then I guess I would do high spd stable.

projektnitemare13

iTrader: (4)

I use 0* toe, -1.5-2* camber, caster, I left stock, or even a little higher. And I got a 0 thrust angle in the rear. Dead straight on a flat surface, corners nice and very very stable at high speeds.

License2Ill

iTrader: (1)

Sounds good.....how's the wear?

projektnitemare13

iTrader: (4)

I havent noticed any abbrant wearing from driving, most of my wear comes from the few track days I do. But pronbably a good 20k+ on the tires and thought theyre bald now theyre worn pretty much perfectly even.

SVThuh

iTrader: (2)

-1.5 is a little aggressive for the street IMO...

For the street and good double duty for the track I run:

Camber: -0.8L/-1.0R
Caster: +MAX
Toe Out: 3/32" total

If Im going to be going to the track A LOT, I will toss these specs in...

Camber: -1.4L/-1.5R
Caster: +MAX
Toe: 1/16"


I would suggest trying my "street" alignment. It works quite well for me on the street and on the track.. The other one I posted is quite aggressive and I find the car seeks and pulls in every rut in the road and it will wear the inside of the tires quickly.

projektnitemare13

iTrader: (4)

Yeah, I've heard that froma couple of people, but I see it as camber is a non wearing angle, and I do enjoy throwing into corners so, I just leave it a little juiced.

sedanman

iTrader: (10)

Camber is definately a wearing angle if you really have 1.5 to 2 degrees of negative camber you should be wearing the inside edges quite badly.

Svthuh street specs should be tire friendly and work well.

License2Ill

iTrader: (1)

JUICED....hahaha! wish i could indulge too...thanks dood.

SVThuh I was thinking that on the camber as well but 1.0 on each side. but have heard of a little more on the right as well.

Sedan thanks for +1.

You guys ever try a kit like this:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/LNG-78295/?rtype=10

I'm looking for something to measure toe accurately now as well...and am considering pulling the trigger on a purchase....becuz sometimes you just want to be able to change things and not have to wait. Or revisit things like an obsessed fanatic.

69TA

iTrader: (263)

for high speed stability you want
a little toe in to 0 not toe out.

projektnitemare13

iTrader: (4)

All I know is though it is, I never experienced it, but I also rotate my tires 2-3 times a season. So, maybe I just happen to get even wear because of that. Also, sinc emine lasted 2.5 years I call it good enough for me. But yes the slightly less will probably be easier on it overall.

leadfoot4

iTrader: (1)

Try this...(for street)

Camber...."zero", both sides
Caster....5-5.5* pass side, a half degree less on the driver's side
Toe...1/16" in

cookba

iTrader: (10)

collection of specs over the years:

Caster: +4.5* (aim for up to +5*)
Camber: -.7* (aim for up to -1.3*)
Toe: 1/32nd inch toe out

From Sam Strano when i had excessive outside tire wear:
-1.25 camber
1/16" total toe-in
as much positive caster as you can get



Mild Street Alignment:
0 Toe
-.5 Camber
+4.5 Caster

Slightly More Aggressive:
0 Toe
-.7 Camber
+4.5 Caster

Even More Aggressive:
0 Toe
-1.0 Camber
+4.5 Caster

The Full Race Setup
1/32" to 3/32" Toe Out
-1.3 to -1.5 Camber (whatever max is after the castor is set at 4.5)
+4.5 Caster

mitchntx setup
-------------
CAMBER: -1*
CASTER: +4.5*
TOE IN: 0"

Glenn98ZM6

I run -2.2 camber and +5 to +5.5 caster w/ zero toe on my CMC 4th gen.

SS SLP2

iTrader: (8)

I back THIS man ^^^^^^
IF anyone would like a little info on auto alignment check my link below just keep clicking to get to info, need Java, give the site time to load then contune
and NO I do not want any work, have been retired 4 years
Johnny

License2Ill

iTrader: (1)

This looked conservative enough for me so I leaned on this mostly for now anyway, also went with Firestone's lifetime alignments.

I was aiming for:
-.25 Camber
5.5 Caster
.06 degrees toe in...which is supposed to equal the 1/16th recommended.

After floor touch down ended with:

-.4 left .2 right camber.
4.9 left 5.4 right degrees caster.
-.06 left -.07 right degrees toe in.

The camber once you sit in it...ends with -.3

Feels good so far.

merim123

iTrader: (11)

the site looks interesting, but can you change the background on that site? couldn't read anything with all the star glitter.

SS SLP2

iTrader: (8)

no can do,have no idea how to change, a friend built site several years ago when I was working, ( been retired 4 years)I keep it posted for avabality to align info, not to promote work
Johnny

00firebird

iTrader: (3)

I found this factory spec online, is this really it? The positive camber seems really weird and I'm wondering why.

95-02 except 95-96 w/Goodyear Eagle RSA tire
camber 0.40* +/- 0.50*
caster 4.80* +/- 0.50*
total toe 0.00* +/- 0.20*

1 FMF

iTrader: (1)

hold alt key then hit 248 in the number pad on right side of keyboard will give you the ° character. num lock light has to be on.

my 2002 gm service manual lists this
caster: +4.3° to +5.3°, preferred is +4.8°
camber: -0.1° to +0.9°, preferred is +0.4°
toe: -0.20° to +0.20°, preferred is 0.

the slightly positive camber will direct all the forces from the wheel to the larger inner wheel bearing versus the smaller outer wheel bearing, and promote longer wheel bearing life. this can be especially important on 3/4 to 1 ton trucks.

under high speed the air resistance will cause the suspension to drop
when the suspension drops, camber goes negative.
the +0.4° of camber which is not much will keep the tire riding flat in the sweet spot .
when the wheels turn,the outside wheel will gain negative camber so cornering is not affected... for normal/legal driving conditions.