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2pt or 3pt sub frame connectors?

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Old 04-04-2011, 05:56 PM
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Default 2pt or 3pt sub frame connectors?

soo i cant decide if i should go with 2 point or 3 point subframe connectors. the 2 point are almost half the price of the 3 point SFC, so are there any benefits if i go with a 3pt over a 2pt?
Old 04-04-2011, 05:57 PM
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Less body roll. Little stiffer ride but beneficial
Old 04-04-2011, 06:46 PM
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yea ive had both. If i had to do it over i would of just got the 3 points.
Old 04-04-2011, 07:34 PM
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Default 3 point UMI

UMI 3 point here as well!

You can now now buy a straight tunnel bar or the tunnel bar with a drive shaft safety loop on it that's made to bolt in between these 3 point subframes for added strength, if your not using a tunnel mount type torqe arm like i had in these pics for you.This tunnel bar ties these sub frames together even more(stronger,)IMO ,, verses just having them bolted to that thin sheet metal spot under the seats with nothing in between them . This is what i did when i removed my old UMI tunnel mount T/A and went with the new UMI tranny relocation type T/A setup with a new tranny cross member and ditched this tunnel mounted one because of the freakin banging noise under my seats that freakin drove me crazy when my ride shifted hard lol My new UMI tranny relocation T/A is as quit as my stock one was and just figuired ide add this in there somewhere lo lIf your ride is not a full out racer, this tunnel mount sucks for everday street driving
PS you just have to make sure your exhaust will clear this tunnel bar im talking about as this one in the pics was made for my Hooker Y pipe that i had to use with my APS TT kit and sat to low IMO and hit alot on me with my ride being lowered 1.2''s



Last edited by barnat; 04-04-2011 at 07:45 PM.
Old 04-04-2011, 07:38 PM
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If you are lowered, go with the 2pt to keep from bottoming out.

Either way you go weld them in.
Old 04-04-2011, 07:49 PM
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Originally Posted by 75tonyA
If you are lowered, go with the 2pt to keep from bottoming out.

Either way you go weld them in.
I never bottomed out with my 3 points ,,,There still scuff free since putting them on 4 years ago Just the tunnel bar in between them would as it was made lower for the Hooker Y pipe !The 3 points are the way to go if your thinking of subframes IMO and like i said with a straight across tunnel bar your tieing the whole car together from side to side too and also will have the option for a driveshaft safty loop if you wanted
I also spent the little bit of extra money for the bolt in sub frames as its was a hell of alot easyer installing them to get them dead on,,, then had em welded or tacked in verses trying to hold them in place with stands and what not while the welder did his thing LOL

Last edited by barnat; 04-04-2011 at 07:55 PM.



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