2pt or 3pt sub frame connectors?
#1
TECH Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: RI
Posts: 723
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
soo i cant decide if i should go with 2 point or 3 point subframe connectors. the 2 point are almost half the price of the 3 point SFC, so are there any benefits if i go with a 3pt over a 2pt?
#4
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (59)
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Pittsburgh,Pa
Posts: 1,736
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
UMI 3 point here as well!
You can now now buy a straight tunnel bar or the tunnel bar with a drive shaft safety loop on it that's made to bolt in between these 3 point subframes for added strength, if your not using a tunnel mount type torqe arm like i had in these pics for you.This tunnel bar ties these sub frames together even more(stronger,)IMO ,, verses just having them bolted to that thin sheet metal spot under the seats with nothing in between them . This is what i did when i removed my old UMI tunnel mount T/A and went with the new UMI tranny relocation type T/A setup with a new tranny cross member and ditched this tunnel mounted one because of the freakin banging noise under my seats that freakin drove me crazy when my ride shifted hard lol My new UMI tranny relocation T/A is as quit as my stock one was and just figuired ide add this in there somewhere lo lIf your ride is not a full out racer, this tunnel mount sucks for everday street driving
PS you just have to make sure your exhaust will clear this tunnel bar im talking about as this one in the pics was made for my Hooker Y pipe that i had to use with my APS TT kit and sat to low IMO and hit alot on me with my ride being lowered 1.2''s
![](http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff160/ebarnat/rear%20end%20angle/rearendangle002.jpg)
You can now now buy a straight tunnel bar or the tunnel bar with a drive shaft safety loop on it that's made to bolt in between these 3 point subframes for added strength, if your not using a tunnel mount type torqe arm like i had in these pics for you.This tunnel bar ties these sub frames together even more(stronger,)IMO ,, verses just having them bolted to that thin sheet metal spot under the seats with nothing in between them . This is what i did when i removed my old UMI tunnel mount T/A and went with the new UMI tranny relocation type T/A setup with a new tranny cross member and ditched this tunnel mounted one because of the freakin banging noise under my seats that freakin drove me crazy when my ride shifted hard lol My new UMI tranny relocation T/A is as quit as my stock one was and just figuired ide add this in there somewhere lo lIf your ride is not a full out racer, this tunnel mount sucks for everday street driving
PS you just have to make sure your exhaust will clear this tunnel bar im talking about as this one in the pics was made for my Hooker Y pipe that i had to use with my APS TT kit and sat to low IMO and hit alot on me with my ride being lowered 1.2''s
![](http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff160/ebarnat/rear%20end%20angle/rearendangle002.jpg)
![](http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff160/ebarnat/rear%20end%20angle/rearendangle003.jpg)
Last edited by barnat; 04-04-2011 at 07:45 PM.
#6
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (59)
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Pittsburgh,Pa
Posts: 1,736
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
![Rolleyes](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/rolleyes.gif)
I also spent the little bit of extra money for the bolt in sub frames as its was a hell of alot easyer installing them to get them dead on,,, then had em welded or tacked in verses trying to hold them in place with stands and what not while the welder did his thing LOL
Last edited by barnat; 04-04-2011 at 07:55 PM.