Bent Spindle???
#41
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Ball joints don't really bend. They break off. Even if it does bend it no longer would operate properly.
Upper arm is more likely to bend than the lower because of the shape of each one. Lower can bend however, especially since a hit on the lower part of the wheel is going to put more force on the lower than the upper. But that would cause camber to go more positive, not negative.
It is hard to say without a direct analysis of everything. I'd probably start with getting a new upper arm and swapping that first as it strikes me as the most likely part to bend. But also I'm not a pro at stuff like this so don't take my word as ultimate authority or anything.
Upper arm is more likely to bend than the lower because of the shape of each one. Lower can bend however, especially since a hit on the lower part of the wheel is going to put more force on the lower than the upper. But that would cause camber to go more positive, not negative.
It is hard to say without a direct analysis of everything. I'd probably start with getting a new upper arm and swapping that first as it strikes me as the most likely part to bend. But also I'm not a pro at stuff like this so don't take my word as ultimate authority or anything.
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So new topic, how would I replace the upper a-arms without dropping the engine out? Would I have to take off the calipers and sindles as well as unbolt the shock tower? And would I have to compress the spring as well?g
hmm. Global west upper a arms are on sale for $260... thinking that I may just want to get those and be done with it. Fully adjustable. I might go on ebay and get a "new/straight" set of ls1 spindles in the ls1 brake upgrade thing for $150. and then eventually the bmr 1inch lower a arms. Then I guess the only things to worry about then would be rod ends (cheap right?) and steering rack and k member. I don't think I screwed anything up serious to warrant replacing everything but its always something I had planned to do eventually.
Last edited by Robbie Wilson; 01-08-2013 at 07:38 PM.
#42
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Of course. I just appreciate any advice
. I have a second set of everything from a trans am my friend totaled and sold to me so I guess the most cost effective thing to do is swap over the a-arm (maybe even the spindle too because I was planing on doing the ls1 brake swap anyways). Hopefully those didn't get damaged in his accident.
So new topic, how would I replace the upper a-arms without dropping the engine out? Would I have to take off the calipers and sindles as well as unbolt the shock tower? And would I have to compress the spring as well?g
hmm. Global west upper a arms are on sale for $260... thinking that I may just want to get those and be done with it. Fully adjustable. I might go on ebay and get a "new/straight" set of ls1 spindles in the ls1 brake upgrade thing for $150. and then eventually the bmr 1inch lower a arms. Then I guess the only things to worry about then would be rod ends (cheap right?) and steering rack and k member. I don't think I screwed anything up serious to warrant replacing everything but its always something I had planned to do eventually.
![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
So new topic, how would I replace the upper a-arms without dropping the engine out? Would I have to take off the calipers and sindles as well as unbolt the shock tower? And would I have to compress the spring as well?g
hmm. Global west upper a arms are on sale for $260... thinking that I may just want to get those and be done with it. Fully adjustable. I might go on ebay and get a "new/straight" set of ls1 spindles in the ls1 brake upgrade thing for $150. and then eventually the bmr 1inch lower a arms. Then I guess the only things to worry about then would be rod ends (cheap right?) and steering rack and k member. I don't think I screwed anything up serious to warrant replacing everything but its always something I had planned to do eventually.
![Winky](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_wink.gif)
The upper A arm is attached to a plate that basically sits on top of the spring/shock assembly, sandwiched between the upper mount and the tower. You'll see what I mean when you take it apart.
#43
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The entire front suspension can be dropped out without pulling the engine. I'd take off the calipers and brake hardware just to reduce the amount of weight on the spindle. You can leave the lower ball joint attached, but you'll have to disconnect the upper. And you don't have to compress the spring to remove the upper arm as the spring and shock remove as a unit. The shock tower is part of the front end structure of the car, so unless you break out a cutting torch, well...
The upper A arm is attached to a plate that basically sits on top of the spring/shock assembly, sandwiched between the upper mount and the tower. You'll see what I mean when you take it apart.
![Winky](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_wink.gif)
The upper A arm is attached to a plate that basically sits on top of the spring/shock assembly, sandwiched between the upper mount and the tower. You'll see what I mean when you take it apart.
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So update. I ordered some global west upper control arms and I am going to have ls1 spindles with ls1 brakes installed on the front from my friends totaled 99 trans am. I know he got into a car accident but hopefully his spindles aren't bent. I can never know until it gets on a lift for an alignment though. WHAT A PITA.
you hit a curb in there cars and have to replace the entire front suspension just to figure out what was wrong with it in the first place lol. NOT COOL. Thats money I could have spent on mods...
oh well at least I am going to have fully adjustable front suspension. That's something I always planned to to anyway. May as well look into upgrading to cts-v calipers/c6 z06 rotors too. Why not? LOL
you hit a curb in there cars and have to replace the entire front suspension just to figure out what was wrong with it in the first place lol. NOT COOL. Thats money I could have spent on mods...
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