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Setting car up for street races: dig to 50ish

Old 06-16-2011, 12:30 AM
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Default Setting car up for street races: dig to 50ish

Want some input to setting my car to own at light to light races, 0 to 50-60 ish.

The setup is a h/c/i 404, i have spray but its gonna be pretty much useless here. M6 w/ 3.42 10 bolt now. 275 nitto DRs.
Ive never been able to get it to hook from a dig and usually have to baby it off the line. I have 1le sways, eibach prokit dropped 3/4 and bilstein hd revalved by slp, sfcs, lca,phb, torque arm.

I will be getting a 9" soon and I know its the common trend to go crazy with gears, but i feel like 4.10 territory will hurt traction even more.

Any input.
Old 06-16-2011, 03:13 AM
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You will never hook on a radial tire. You need a real slick IMO. Even the ET Street Radials don't wanna hook on M6 cars that I have seen. 3.73-4.10 gears should be good.
Old 06-16-2011, 11:52 AM
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Get some better tires
Old 06-16-2011, 12:53 PM
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Originally Posted by pHEnomIC
Want some input to setting my car to own at light to light races, 0 to 50-60 ish.

The setup is a h/c/i 404, i have spray but its gonna be pretty much useless here. M6 w/ 3.42 10 bolt now. 275 nitto DRs.
Ive never been able to get it to hook from a dig and usually have to baby it off the line. I have 1le sways, eibach prokit dropped 3/4 and bilstein hd revalved by slp, sfcs, lca,phb, torque arm.

I will be getting a 9" soon and I know its the common trend to go crazy with gears, but i feel like 4.10 territory will hurt traction even more.

Any input.
Get rid of the front sway bar if you haven't already. When you dropped the car did you re-adjust the pinion angle? You don't say if you have an adj. torqu arm. Did you also adjust the phb if its adjustable?

275 nittos are not really known for hooking in a 6spd car. They work in maybe a low 12 car but not a stroked motored car.

You will need to get more adjustability in your suspension. You might want to get some adjustable shocks so they can help with the transfer/rebound when the car is launching. Get the 4.10's you will be ok.
Old 06-16-2011, 02:08 PM
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My torque arms at -2.5*, seems to be the best.
Old 06-16-2011, 02:38 PM
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Since you lowered the Car all around, you Might wanna play with some LCA drop brackets, transferring your instant center more rearward may help. An m6 needs all the help it can get on putting weight in the right spot when you drop the hammer.

A soft soft sidewall tire will definitely help cushion the shock on the tire when the clutch engages. Radial tires are too stiff to help in this department.
Old 06-16-2011, 02:48 PM
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Originally Posted by pHEnomIC
My torque arms at -2.5*, seems to be the best.
Good. Now where is everything else at?

I agree with Mighty on the relocation brackets to move the IC. Can you picture where your IC is now?

As far as tires I know you don't want to have a slick on the car at all times so you might want to go down to a 15 drag radial which will be a compromise between the street tire and soft wall tire. The 17's just don't have the sidewall for a stick car.

You could always go auto and that will solve alot of problem we are discussing here.
Old 06-17-2011, 04:43 PM
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Originally Posted by 87silverbullet
Get rid of the front sway bar if you haven't already. When you dropped the car did you re-adjust the pinion angle? You don't say if you have an adj. torqu arm. Did you also adjust the phb if its adjustable?

275 nittos are not really known for hooking in a 6spd car. They work in maybe a low 12 car but not a stroked motored car.

You will need to get more adjustability in your suspension. You might want to get some adjustable shocks so they can help with the transfer/rebound when the car is launching. Get the 4.10's you will be ok.
sorry to high jack your thread op but i wanted to ask does removing the front sway bar help
Old 06-17-2011, 07:48 PM
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Originally Posted by killerwhale
sorry to high jack your thread op but i wanted to ask does removing the front sway bar help
Not for this sort of application. You remove the front sway bar and you'll be at racing speed without the stability needed to haul it down.
Old 06-17-2011, 08:36 PM
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I've gone 141 with out a front sway bar.you need more quicker weight transfer.
Old 06-18-2011, 07:32 PM
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In a straight line the front sway bar makes no difference. So removing it helps get weight off the front of the car and helps with transfer when launching off the line. I haven't been as fast as 141 in the 1/4 without it but I have gone 135


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