deleted ABS, brakes sticking
06-18-2011, 09:00 PM
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deleted ABS, brakes sticking Heres the deal. I had a 12 bolt installed in my car and deleted the ABS. At the time, also installed a linelock. After all this was done. car has .224/.230 duration cam, 12 bolt, 3.73. auto with yank4000 stall, longtubes, off road y pipe, fast102 intake, lid, k&n. Tune. Anyway the car made 384rwhp. I took the car to the track this past week. I never personally ran the car before, but was given timeslips of what the car had ran. It had longtubes, off road y pipe, lid, 3.73 gear. Car ran 8.10 in the 1/8 mile. stock cam and intake. I have seen cars with my power run 7.20s. My car is a hardtop, stripper model with manual everything, so i dont know the weight. Anyway it only ran 7.90@87 mph with a 1.70 60 foot. Car was trailer to the track, made an 1/8 mile pass and then sat in the shade 30 minutes. What we found was:
the wheels were TOO hot to touch like the brakes were sticking. Front AND rear. after 30 minute cooldown mind you. I mean HOT. If we would have wanted to take them off, we would needed gloves. I only tested the linelock ONCE and that was before the track to make sure it worked. I didnt use it at the track.
Somewhere I have got a problem. A guy over there told me his brakes were sticking like that, not even getting THAT hot. And it was worth half a second et. I know I SHOULD have ran 7.40s at least given the temp and humidity with a 1.5x 60 foot. Car had 15in skinnies and drag radials. And it hooked.
Anyway. What we have found is, the car has had the ABS deleted and it has the linelock. There is NO proportioning valve. Does it need a proportioning valve?
When you jack the car up, you cant freely spin the wheels. You can turn it HARd and it may go half a turn and stop.
Ideas??? 7.90s aint cutting it. I coulda done that with the stock intake, stock cam, and 10 bolt.
the wheels were TOO hot to touch like the brakes were sticking. Front AND rear. after 30 minute cooldown mind you. I mean HOT. If we would have wanted to take them off, we would needed gloves. I only tested the linelock ONCE and that was before the track to make sure it worked. I didnt use it at the track.
Somewhere I have got a problem. A guy over there told me his brakes were sticking like that, not even getting THAT hot. And it was worth half a second et. I know I SHOULD have ran 7.40s at least given the temp and humidity with a 1.5x 60 foot. Car had 15in skinnies and drag radials. And it hooked.
Anyway. What we have found is, the car has had the ABS deleted and it has the linelock. There is NO proportioning valve. Does it need a proportioning valve?
When you jack the car up, you cant freely spin the wheels. You can turn it HARd and it may go half a turn and stop.
Ideas??? 7.90s aint cutting it. I coulda done that with the stock intake, stock cam, and 10 bolt.
06-19-2011, 11:26 AM
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Not having a prop valve is not your issue. It sounds like residual pressure either from a kinked/pinched hose or fluid contamination swelling the seals. Could be a few other issues as well but unlikely to effect every wheel. I would start by collapsing the pistons back into the calipers and see if its possible; fluid should return to the master cylinder with minor effort. If the piston wont move, crack the bleeder open and try again. If it moves then your problem is after the caliper, if not then it is the caliper(s) at fault. An easy check for contamination is to pull the master cylinder cap and look at the rubber seal under the cap. If its all ballooned up and hard to fit back in; the fluid is contaminated.
