LS6427

iTrader: (2)

My Baer Eradispeeds (drilled and slotted) were noticeably smoother than stock when braking hard, and seem to provide better braking with less force.

Maybe its in my head.....but thats what I feel. I use GM factory pads.

.

Element

iTrader: (5)

That "new" surface area isn't cooled effectively, and you're still reducing the total mass of the rotor - which means it will heat quicker, cool quicker, and be more prone to warpage and cracking due to that.

There are plenty of white papers that go into both brake theory and real-world practice, if you doubt physics.

82cetuner

iTrader: (9)

This is what I was trying to say bout the decreased mass, it really is not all about surface area as you would think.

I don't know if you have ever seen a real race setup brake kit for hardcore autocross but those things are beasts, the rotors are extremly thick, heavy, and have no slots or holes, they are desighned to do one thing and one thing only and thats last a entire race without getting to hot because if they get to hot then they degrade the PAD and the PAD is what does all the work.

If your brakes are going to see alot of hard heat and cool down cycles like drag racing a blank style rotor will probably hold up longer. cheep crossdrilled rotors will probably wind up failing, however if you buy a GOOD crossdrilled rotor, or a rotor that was CAST with the holes in it then you will fair better, remember you get what you pay for.

and you cant go wrong with hawk hps pads or hp pads. concentrate more on the pads than the rotors,

Fbodyjunkie06

iTrader: (10)

Damn that's cheap I'll look into those, thanks.

Yea, thanks, her *** is nice, but sometimes her mouth is more than enough to negate those assets.

I'm kinda stuck between good quality blanks and slotted rotors now. More research to do

This sounds like the information I've been looking for. I've never been to an AutoX before, but I will be at one next Friday in Myrtle Beach.

So with what you said then a Brembo blank like above would work well with the hawk pads then?

blackls1ta00

iTrader: (27)

i have the baer rotors with hawk hps pads front and rear ,no cracks or warp yet after about 8k miles and stops on a dime,i havent gotten stainless lines yet which will be next.

Fbodyjunkie06

iTrader: (10)

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HWK-HB249N-575/

Are these going to be too aggressive?


http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EBC-DP31239C/

Or these?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EBC-DP41239R/

Or these

My car is not my DD. It is a toy. It gets driven in the summer whenever I feel like it which is usually a lot, but not in rain and not everywhere so I guess a completely street oriented pad can be skipped here and I could probably get away with a little more aggressive pad. I'll probably put 3-5k a year on my car.

Fbodyjunkie06

iTrader: (10)

Wow I just looked at the same Hawk HP plus pads for 30 bucks cheaper on WS6 store!!!

I know where I will buy the pads I buy at...

I think I am going to get these...http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...nt-rear-save-/

BS

Yes, I've read SAE 2006 -01 -0691 " The Effect of Rotor Crossdrilling on Brake Performance. If I recall correctly it was pretty favorable conclusions to cross drilling concerning cooling.
I'm not saying that crossdrilling is the best thing out there. I'm just saying that it's not as bad as a lot of you are accusing them of being.
Also some, not all of the pictures that I've seen of "cracked" rotors actually only show surface indications in the swiped area. Which would be more an indicator of the quality of the material than stress from the crossdrilling and is more than likely not that detrimental for normal brake use.
I was involved with Metallurgy when I was in the Navy and I took physics in HS, so I'm not some ignorant redneck, heavy equipment operator from NC. But I am a redneck heavy equipment from NC.

WS6tx

iTrader: (25)

I look at it like this... What do all the top road race cars... and supercars have as rotors... Slotted and cross drilled rotors. I say with all the money they have to do research to make there cars brake fasterto get a second less on lap time... there must be a reason all of them choose them. None the less whatever you choose will be right for you. Good luck with your decision.

Element

iTrader: (5)

I've seen cracked OEM cross-drilled rotors from Porsche, Ferrari, and Lambo...I doubt the metallurgy of their rotors is too bad, at least compared to the "budget" cross-drilled rotors. Cast holes aren't quite as bad, but drilling them post-casting creates points where fatigue is much more likely to start. It's the same as creating any artificial stress point on anything, from a paper clip to a connecting rod. The way I look at it, as cross-drilling isn't likely to cause any benefits on the street, why create conditions that favor premature rotor failure?

The majority of white papers I've seen (from some of the larger brake manufacturers themselves, who, given that cross-drilled and slotted rotors are more bling than boring old blanks, would pad in favor of the drilled and slotted rotors for a marketing standpoint) all show that, for 99% of the vehicles out there that have cross-drilled and slotted rotors on them, the "pretty" rotors don't do anything better, and are more prone to issues like hairline cracking, premature warping, and the like. Granted, a lot of people who buy them aren't going to drive their car hard enough to see those issues, but they still exist for the guys who do drive hard.

But, like I said, that's just my opinion that I've come to over time. (Been a long week, so I don't want it to seem like I'm trying to start a pissing match or anything). If you disagree, hey, that's why they make both types of rotors, right? So everyone is happy. :beer:

Element

iTrader: (5)

That was brought up in one of the big rotor threads at some point last year, but I can't remember which one it was. :\ There was some pretty good technical explanations offered in that thread covering a whole host of brake pad and rotor questions.

Ehatcher

iTrader: (1)

I love my Hawk HP+ and my WS6 store rotors!! Good fluid is great as well!

Fbodyjunkie06

iTrader: (10)

Ok with all of the is cross drilled bad or not, will I ever put that much stress on them continually like a dedicated road course car to heat them up and crack them like the stock ones, or the ones that you saw that had failed?

I'm really trying to just get the best bang for the buck. While not being a complete cheap ***.

Fbodyjunkie06

iTrader: (10)

Hey BrakeMotive I have a question for you...If I paint your rotors with a high temp brake caliper paint how long will it take to wear off. A day? 2 days? Week? Any idea? I really like the(puts suit on)look of the all black speed inc rotors I posted up, but your deal is kicking me in the nuts if I don't do it

What do you think?

Racin'Z28

iTrader: (7)

Just bought a back up set yesterday for next year. At $25 each, you can't go wrong.

To the original poster, I would pick up a set of these since they are on sale, call Brakemotive (great guys) and order up a set of rear blanks, (no holes or slots, not needed) and buy a set of his Z-16 pads x4. Flush your lines with new Super Blue fluid, Summit has it for like $15/quart, and you will have a system that will completely amaze you. It will be even better if you pick up some Stainless lines, I think WS6 store has them cheap.

Good luck.

And, yes this topic has been beaten to a pulp and so has the holes and slotted question.
One tip, go to the sticky section and there is a whole write up on the drilled and slotted questions and quotes from all the major manufacturers on them being really more for looks now.

Racin'Z28

iTrader: (7)

I can only speak for these HP plus' but they are very hard on rotors, chewing through them quickly and very dusty. That said though, they are about the best pad you can buy if you want to stop fast. Just remember, it's really the pads that count on how you stop. The rotor absorbs the heat, (kinetic energy to thermal energy) and buying the best pads for your personal needs is best. I liked the Brakemotive Z-16 pads because it was nice balance of a very good predictable bite and only moderate dust but these Hawks will make you stop like you've never stopped before. But the trade off is lot of dust and chewed up rotors. I forgot to add the Hawk pads are very noisy (squeeky) as well.

Racin'Z28

iTrader: (7)

Sorry for all the replies, but I think you hit the point right on the head! Unless you are doing a lot of track time/Road course with repeated stopping, you won't really heat them up enough after one run to cause them to fade. In Autocross, you will have lots of stopping, turning, etc., so it's more important to think about pads and rotors that are best suited to the type of racing you do. I can tell you from personal experience that hands down the one thing that makes the most difference in stopping is the pad. That includes any fading that may occur as the brakes heat up as you do several runs. I've driven many of my friends race cars in Autocross with D/S rotors and I didn't walk away thinking they were SO much better. I would buy the Brembo Blanks for the fronts from Summit for 25 each, get Autozone blanks for the back (the back only does 25% anyway) and then spend your money on GOOD pads, they make all the difference. If you don't mind a lot of dust, go with Hawk HP Plus, Hawk also has a Hawk HP (no plus) that is almost as good but a lot less dust but I don't think they are worth their extra cost. The next choice are the Z16 pads from Brakemotive. I've had a full set of them on my car since last years racing season and I can tell you with absolute honesty they have only gotten better since last year and you will be making a good choice and at a good price.
Ok, I'll stop now...LOL

Fbodyjunkie06

iTrader: (10)

Oh no man I appreciate all the info you just gave me because it was what I was looking for.

I think I am going to go with the low line hawk pads and the brembo blanks you guys showed me.

Thanks for all the help.

I am still waiting on a reply from brakemotive about painting his rotors.

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

OH.....my Bear Erads (cross-drilled and slotted) are going on 9 1/2 years old........they are still PERFECT.

So......cross-drilled and slotted rotors DO NOT warp easier.......at least mine haven't yet after 9 1/2 years.

.

Fbodyjunkie06

iTrader: (10)

I almost ordered the brembo blanks last night. I decided to wait and see what else everyone in the thread had to say first and they wont ship out till monday anyways if I wait.