Brake Squeal
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From: Winter Garden, FL
Brake Squeal Title says it My car is a 2000 Trans Am. Rotors have been recently machined, pads have plenty of surface still on them, they are OEM pads. What could be the cause? Could the chatter plates have gone bad? I understand that there are products available to put to the back of the pad to prevent squealing but aren't those only for cars without chatter plates? Or will those help on our cars too?
Did the pads get bedded in properly? If they don't have the proper transfer layer on the rotor they could make noise,
Are they true OEM compound (ceramic) or carbon-metallic? Some brake compounds will make some noise almost no matter what you do.
If the noise is from the pistons onto the plates than you can try that goop. I haven't ever bothered to put them on my Firebirds and my brakes are typically noiseless.
Are they true OEM compound (ceramic) or carbon-metallic? Some brake compounds will make some noise almost no matter what you do.
If the noise is from the pistons onto the plates than you can try that goop. I haven't ever bothered to put them on my Firebirds and my brakes are typically noiseless.
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From: Winter Garden, FL
^^^ Thanks for the reply.
No I just posted "OEM" for ***** and giggles... 
, JK yes they are an OEM compound, bought at the dealership.
I didn't know you have to bed in OEM pads, I though that was only necessary for pads made with ceramic materials and other aftermarket pads.
How should this be done with these pads? Again thanks for the help.
, JK yes they are an OEM compound, bought at the dealership.How should this be done with these pads? Again thanks for the help.
I had a similar problem way back and it was the front hubs/bearings. They were emitting a squeak just like a brake squeak when under braking. The originals lasted me 75K miles.
When I took my new brakes back off to look for the squeak, I turned the hub by hand with the rotor off and found that it felt like a meat grinder. (If you have a slightly squeaking bearing, the regular tests with the tire on my not expose the problem.)
When I took my new brakes back off to look for the squeak, I turned the hub by hand with the rotor off and found that it felt like a meat grinder. (If you have a slightly squeaking bearing, the regular tests with the tire on my not expose the problem.)
Bed them in with the process below and give them atleast 500 miles to wear in. Most noise especially from a ceramic compound comes from harmonic vibration caused by the pad rattling in its retaining clips. If you're OE pads don't have a rubberized shim on them using some CRC brake quiet paste on the backing plates will do wonders. Also make sure the abutment clips are springy, not corroded and well lubricated with silicone or ceramic based lubricant. Also make sure the caliper guide pins are working smoothly while you've got it apart.
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From: Winter Garden, FL
^^^ I'm sorry maybe I missed something, what "process below?"
To check the guide pins what should I be looking out for?
The chatter plates look fairly corroded, maybe that's part of the problem.
Do you recommend any kind of lubricant in particular?
To check the guide pins what should I be looking out for?
The chatter plates look fairly corroded, maybe that's part of the problem.
Do you recommend any kind of lubricant in particular?
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The guide pins transfer half the force generated from your single piston calipers to the outboard pad. If they do not slide freely they may contribute to squeal and premature pad wear, rotor warping etc. You want to make sure the caliper body slides easliy in the abutment bracket. If you dissasemble them check the dust boots to make sure they are not dry rotted and letting in moisture/debris. Clean them well with brake cleaner if they are not corroded or bent etc and re-lube the pins with caliper grease. CRC makes a decent caliper grease and anti noise gel, but for the abutment clips (anti rattle clips) I would suggest using ceramlube - it is a ceramic based high solids lubricant, one of the best out there.
IMPORTANT: BREAK IN NEW BRAKE PADS/ROTORS USING THE PAD BEDDING PROCEDURE AS FOLLOWS. PROPER PAD BEDdumDING CAN PREVENT ROTOR WARPING.
The break in procedure is critical to brake performance. The reason for a proper break in is to establish an even layer of friction material deposited on the rotors from the brake pads. It is very important that this initial layer of friction material is evenly distributed. Break in the pads as follows: 5 moderate to aggressive stops from 40 mph down to 10 mph in rapid succession without letting the brakes cool and do not come to a complete stop. Then do 5 moddumerate stops from 35 mph to 5 mph in rapid succession without letting the brakes cool. You should expect to smell some resin as the brakes get hot. After this is complete, drive around for as long as possible without excessively heating the brakes and without coming to a complete stop (Try for about 5 minutes at moderate speed). This is the cooling stage. It allows the heated resin in the brake pads to cool and cure. After the brakes have cooled to standard operating temperature, you may use the brakes normally.
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