Will I feel/notice Lcas,phb and subframe connectors all at once?
08-13-2011, 12:39 AM
#21
SOrry I didnt mention more I guess. This car is an 02 SS with the slp level II bilstein pack. I lowered it with ground control coilovers I think 700/200 or close to that. I had 550/150 on my old white z28 and I wanted it stiffer. These springs definitely make me happier in the corners and it rides great.
I have it lowered quite a bit and the MAIN reason for wanting to upgrade is just 'refinement'. I actually am debating on selling my SS for an 03 E46 M3 for just that reason. Nicer interior, smoother and tighter ride etc. At the same time if I decide to keep it I figured upgrading the rear a little might make it feel a little tighter and feel more composed in the turns.
I never did the adj PHB after lowering because the rear is still centered and I remember that the SS pack had better bushings somewhere so I left it alone. For LCAs I dont care for relocation if it helps squat etc I actually want anti-squat if it was possible. I figured those new LCAs would have newer bushings etc and for the price might as well.
Right now I have HREs on it but Im selling them soon to go from the 20 in the back to 19/19. I only got 20 because they were off a vette and I always wanted these wheels. Still sort of undecided really.
I run the car hard at speed, in turns, sliding sideways for 100 feet on on-ramps etc
(in the rain lol not enough power in the dry). I dont know why I never did SFCs just too lazy to order them. Car is a hardtop but suddenly after a year I am hearing slight squeaking etc getting in my driveway etc.
Here's a few pics for those that dont know my car
I have it lowered quite a bit and the MAIN reason for wanting to upgrade is just 'refinement'. I actually am debating on selling my SS for an 03 E46 M3 for just that reason. Nicer interior, smoother and tighter ride etc. At the same time if I decide to keep it I figured upgrading the rear a little might make it feel a little tighter and feel more composed in the turns.
I never did the adj PHB after lowering because the rear is still centered and I remember that the SS pack had better bushings somewhere so I left it alone. For LCAs I dont care for relocation if it helps squat etc I actually want anti-squat if it was possible. I figured those new LCAs would have newer bushings etc and for the price might as well.
Right now I have HREs on it but Im selling them soon to go from the 20 in the back to 19/19. I only got 20 because they were off a vette and I always wanted these wheels. Still sort of undecided really.
I run the car hard at speed, in turns, sliding sideways for 100 feet on on-ramps etc
(in the rain lol not enough power in the dry). I dont know why I never did SFCs just too lazy to order them. Car is a hardtop but suddenly after a year I am hearing slight squeaking etc getting in my driveway etc.Here's a few pics for those that dont know my car
08-13-2011, 12:46 AM
#22
Ok I just read on a website that the relocation brackets are 'for' anti - squat?? and are reccomended for lowered cars? Looks like I might be getting those too. so..
Tubular non visible SFCs
Reloaction Brackets
LCAs
Adj PHB
I also need to do the upper mount mod to gain some travel so I can lower the front more.. man if the wife just gave me more time in the garage... :/
Tubular non visible SFCs
Reloaction Brackets
LCAs
Adj PHB
I also need to do the upper mount mod to gain some travel so I can lower the front more.. man if the wife just gave me more time in the garage... :/
08-13-2011, 01:24 AM
#24
All the suspension mods in the world won't make a solid-axle f-body handle like an M3. Not that it can't be made to handle as well or better than the BMW; they're simply completely different cars. If you want refinement, I'd honestly say save your money on the suspension parts and just get the M3.
LCA relocation brackets are good on lowered cars because it fixes the borked LCA/body angle. They're effective on stock-height cars too, but will make a bigger difference with wheel-hop on a lowered car.
LCA relocation brackets are good on lowered cars because it fixes the borked LCA/body angle. They're effective on stock-height cars too, but will make a bigger difference with wheel-hop on a lowered car.
08-13-2011, 12:00 PM
#25
Yeah I'm not trying to make it like an m3 that's for sure. I understand they are 2 different cars I just wish that if felt a little more refined and tight in the back especially. I think GM should have named it a 'dead' rear axle lol. I've almost got the vette project almost complete so I'll have a hairy car there. I was considering an m3 to have something a little smoother and easier to drive everyday. If I keep the ss I will definitely be doing a few of these mods and probably hollow Strano sway bars too.
As for the stb I put one on my last 01 z28 hardtop and I liked it. Made the front feel a little more precise especially over rough pavement. Without it I notice the wheel 'feels' like it's wiggling a bit more or maybe it's just vibration. I haven't bothers putting one on the ss because I don't like the idea of adding more heft higher up over the front wheels.
As for the stb I put one on my last 01 z28 hardtop and I liked it. Made the front feel a little more precise especially over rough pavement. Without it I notice the wheel 'feels' like it's wiggling a bit more or maybe it's just vibration. I haven't bothers putting one on the ss because I don't like the idea of adding more heft higher up over the front wheels.
08-13-2011, 10:19 PM
#27
I've been reading about the watts link for about an hour now.. Lots of old posts that sound exactly like the type of refinement I'm looking for from the rear. I read about coilovers.. Does this watts link require them? I have the gc but it's obviously not a coilover in the rear just an adj spring perch . Who sells these?
08-13-2011, 11:07 PM
#28
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Who sells the coilovers, Spohn. http://www.spohn.net/shop/1993-1997-...le-Shocks.html
There are two companies that sell Watt's links, Strano and Fays2. Both are $650 and found here
http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...D=67&ModelID=7
and here
http://fays2.net/fays2_watts_link_21_.html
Both are the same, but you don't need the coilovers for the watt's link though.
There are two companies that sell Watt's links, Strano and Fays2. Both are $650 and found here
http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...D=67&ModelID=7
and here
http://fays2.net/fays2_watts_link_21_.html
Both are the same, but you don't need the coilovers for the watt's link though.
08-13-2011, 11:49 PM
#29
Who sells the coilovers, Spohn. http://www.spohn.net/shop/1993-1997-...le-Shocks.html
There are two companies that sell Watt's links, Strano and Fays2. Both are $650 and found here
http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...D=67&ModelID=7
and here
http://fays2.net/fays2_watts_link_21_.html
Both are the same, but you don't need the coilovers for the watt's link though.
There are two companies that sell Watt's links, Strano and Fays2. Both are $650 and found here
http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...D=67&ModelID=7
and here
http://fays2.net/fays2_watts_link_21_.html
Both are the same, but you don't need the coilovers for the watt's link though.
08-14-2011, 01:08 AM
#30
Man, I think this is the answer to my own question. I'll get Lcas and the watts link. Price isnt really an issue but man $650 seems like alot for those few pieces. If it were maybe $100 less I think I would have pm'd my cc number to sam already ! If I do spend anything on the rear end this will be it for sure. Thanks everyone.
08-14-2011, 08:18 AM
#32
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It does get annoying, my car always likes to get tail happy on lefts. I would got a watt's link long ago if I had the money.
08-14-2011, 11:10 AM
#33
TECH Senior Member
Who sells the coilovers, Spohn. http://www.spohn.net/shop/1993-1997-...le-Shocks.html
Nastyc4 has probably been around long enough to know that QA1s are horrible shocks, especially for handling. You'll be doing more damage than good...
On top of that the rear of these cars were never meant for coilovers, you are relocating where all the weight rests on pieces never meant to bear that much weight...
Nastyc4 arn't you on bilstiens right now?
I know you said you thought Konis were harsh when slammed, but did you ever consider konis with proper height? Or what about Penski or race bilstiens?
That plus a watts link will definitely make things more precise.
08-14-2011, 11:11 AM
#34
TECH Senior Member
The PHB certainly doesn't help this, but I think its more the stock differential allowing this to happen.
08-14-2011, 02:35 PM
#35
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no offense but terrible advice.
Nastyc4 has probably been around long enough to know that QA1s are horrible shocks, especially for handling. You'll be doing more damage than good...
On top of that the rear of these cars were never meant for coilovers, you are relocating where all the weight rests on pieces never meant to bear that much weight...
Nastyc4 has probably been around long enough to know that QA1s are horrible shocks, especially for handling. You'll be doing more damage than good...
On top of that the rear of these cars were never meant for coilovers, you are relocating where all the weight rests on pieces never meant to bear that much weight...
08-15-2011, 04:37 PM
#36
TECH Senior Member
and also that I had never been in a car with them.
Like a combination of being in an old cadillac and a dump truck.
As for Qa1s, I've never really seen anyone complain about them.
08-15-2011, 07:47 PM
#37
As is, the car is not designed to support rear coilovers...
Three, Midwest Chasis also sells a Watts Link, and it's cheaper.
Three, Midwest Chasis also sells a Watts Link, and it's cheaper.
Who sells the coilovers, Spohn. http://www.spohn.net/shop/1993-1997-...le-Shocks.html
There are two companies that sell Watt's links, Strano and Fays2. Both are $650 and found here
http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...D=67&ModelID=7
and here
http://fays2.net/fays2_watts_link_21_.html
Both are the same, but you don't need the coilovers for the watt's link though.
There are two companies that sell Watt's links, Strano and Fays2. Both are $650 and found here
http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...D=67&ModelID=7
and here
http://fays2.net/fays2_watts_link_21_.html
Both are the same, but you don't need the coilovers for the watt's link though.
08-15-2011, 08:00 PM
#38
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The two companies that sell watts links are Midwest Chassis and Fays2. Strano doesn't have his own, he just sells the Fays2 watts link on his site.
Who sells the coilovers, Spohn. http://www.spohn.net/shop/1993-1997-...le-Shocks.html
There are two companies that sell Watt's links, Strano and Fays2. Both are $650 and found here
http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...D=67&ModelID=7
and here
http://fays2.net/fays2_watts_link_21_.html
Both are the same, but you don't need the coilovers for the watt's link though.
There are two companies that sell Watt's links, Strano and Fays2. Both are $650 and found here
http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...D=67&ModelID=7
and here
http://fays2.net/fays2_watts_link_21_.html
Both are the same, but you don't need the coilovers for the watt's link though.
08-15-2011, 09:48 PM
#39
Don't do a coil over in the rear.
As far as the Watts, it doesn't turn a solid rear axle into IRS. It does keep the axle centered and keep a common roll center between right and left turns, unlike the Panhard. It also has an adjustable roll center height if you end up wanting to play with that.
The solid axle honestly isn't as big a liability compared to IRS as some make out, at least not on smooth surfaces. It is worse if you are on uneven surfaces. There is a huge difference between how stock or drag shocks with the solid axle handle bumps in a corner compared to a properly damped rear though.
Interior construction is a whole different matter. It is probably cheaper to make an Fbody handle as well as an M3 than it is to make the interior as nice.
As far as the Watts, it doesn't turn a solid rear axle into IRS. It does keep the axle centered and keep a common roll center between right and left turns, unlike the Panhard. It also has an adjustable roll center height if you end up wanting to play with that.
The solid axle honestly isn't as big a liability compared to IRS as some make out, at least not on smooth surfaces. It is worse if you are on uneven surfaces. There is a huge difference between how stock or drag shocks with the solid axle handle bumps in a corner compared to a properly damped rear though.
Interior construction is a whole different matter. It is probably cheaper to make an Fbody handle as well as an M3 than it is to make the interior as nice.
08-17-2011, 11:01 AM
#40
I have someone local to me selling a 12 bolt moser with all the upgrades and a watts link setup with torque arm etc..
You guys think all that will at least be VERY noticeable ? I'd have to save up a bit but its a decent deal for all the parts. I would do sfcs and lcas a the same time too. New diff will have 3.73s too.
You guys think all that will at least be VERY noticeable ? I'd have to save up a bit but its a decent deal for all the parts. I would do sfcs and lcas a the same time too. New diff will have 3.73s too.