$25 to whoever diagnoses my brake problem
10-09-2011, 03:41 PM
#43
What I really want to eliminate is anything internal in the calipers. Would anything internal cause a spongy pedal?
I've heard of calipers that might be mounted incorrectly or stuck guide pins, that might lead to a spongy pedal due to the caliper moving when the pedal is pressed. But those are all external problems that should be easy to spot.
I've heard of calipers that might be mounted incorrectly or stuck guide pins, that might lead to a spongy pedal due to the caliper moving when the pedal is pressed. But those are all external problems that should be easy to spot.
10-09-2011, 06:55 PM
#45
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It really sounds like your not bleeding in right order. Are you doing this by yourself? Have a friend help.
Regardless though,
Do yourself the hugest favor in the world and buy some Speed Bleeders. Ive had this same problem on cars and lifted trucks. Bought these and bled in proper order twice just to make sure. So much easier.
Edit, Just to clarify, Bleed the oldschool way with these speedbleeders. I never had much luck with the power bleeders on cars where i had pulled apart the entire brake system. Crack a bleeder, have somebody pump a few times, close, on to the next one. Add fluid as you go to each one. They really just allow you to shoot SO MUCH fluid out at once it gets everything out.
Regardless though,
Do yourself the hugest favor in the world and buy some Speed Bleeders. Ive had this same problem on cars and lifted trucks. Bought these and bled in proper order twice just to make sure. So much easier.
Edit, Just to clarify, Bleed the oldschool way with these speedbleeders. I never had much luck with the power bleeders on cars where i had pulled apart the entire brake system. Crack a bleeder, have somebody pump a few times, close, on to the next one. Add fluid as you go to each one. They really just allow you to shoot SO MUCH fluid out at once it gets everything out.
10-10-2011, 04:23 PM
#47
Another new finding...
Now I'm getting bubbles when I bleed the rear calipers, but none when I bleed the fronts. So there's either air getting into one of the lines going to the rear, or is it possible that one of the internal seals in the MC is bad towards the front (the line going to the rear)? Most of the bubbles are small, soda type bubbles, but every once in a while I'll get a big one. None on the fronts.
Now I'm getting bubbles when I bleed the rear calipers, but none when I bleed the fronts. So there's either air getting into one of the lines going to the rear, or is it possible that one of the internal seals in the MC is bad towards the front (the line going to the rear)? Most of the bubbles are small, soda type bubbles, but every once in a while I'll get a big one. None on the fronts.
10-10-2011, 05:02 PM
#49
Replaced it with a used one but the pedal feels the exact same.
Like I said before, I bent the line going from the mc to the back of the proportioning valve when I moved the mc to get to the shock bolt. It started leaking so I had to loosen and reseat it. It's not leaking now that I can tell, but it might be drawing in air or something. I'm going to replace this line next.
Like I said before, I bent the line going from the mc to the back of the proportioning valve when I moved the mc to get to the shock bolt. It started leaking so I had to loosen and reseat it. It's not leaking now that I can tell, but it might be drawing in air or something. I'm going to replace this line next.
10-10-2011, 05:13 PM
#51
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Replaced it with a used one but the pedal feels the exact same.
Like I said before, I bent the line going from the mc to the back of the proportioning valve when I moved the mc to get to the shock bolt. It started leaking so I had to loosen and reseat it. It's not leaking now that I can tell, but it might be drawing in air or something. I'm going to replace this line next.
Like I said before, I bent the line going from the mc to the back of the proportioning valve when I moved the mc to get to the shock bolt. It started leaking so I had to loosen and reseat it. It's not leaking now that I can tell, but it might be drawing in air or something. I'm going to replace this line next.
damn hard lines are picky.
10-21-2011, 10:21 AM
#54
Did anything ever fix the issue you had with your brakes OP? Did you find the problem yet? I am having the same issue with my pedal although I havent done as much extensive bleeding and whatnot like you have. Swapped new pads and rotors and lines all around but had the MC off to change shocks/springs and headers as I didnt think it would be a big deal.
I still have a few more tests to rule some parts out but its the only thing keeping me from driving the car and its very frustrating!
I still have a few more tests to rule some parts out but its the only thing keeping me from driving the car and its very frustrating!
10-22-2011, 10:40 AM
#55
Did anything ever fix the issue you had with your brakes OP? Did you find the problem yet? I am having the same issue with my pedal although I havent done as much extensive bleeding and whatnot like you have. Swapped new pads and rotors and lines all around but had the MC off to change shocks/springs and headers as I didnt think it would be a big deal. I still have a few more tests to rule some parts out but its the only thing keeping me from driving the car and its very frustrating!
I still have a few more tests to rule some parts out but its the only thing keeping me from driving the car and its very frustrating!
10-22-2011, 12:16 PM
#56
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all brand new bottles of fluid correct?
i would try completely emptying the reserve, empty all lines, and start over new with fresh fluid.
water contamination can cause this as well.
i would try completely emptying the reserve, empty all lines, and start over new with fresh fluid.
water contamination can cause this as well.
10-22-2011, 07:53 PM
#57
Well, I replaced the line and there is no change.
When I bleed the system, the fronts have completely clean fluid. The rears still have soda-size bubbles in them, both sides. So I'm now completely out of ideas. I don't remember these soda-sized bubbles with my original MC, so maybe there's something with the seals in the new one? Who freakin knows. I'm going to put my original MC back on. If that doesn't fix it, then I'm officially giving up.
Thanks for the help everyone.
When I bleed the system, the fronts have completely clean fluid. The rears still have soda-size bubbles in them, both sides. So I'm now completely out of ideas. I don't remember these soda-sized bubbles with my original MC, so maybe there's something with the seals in the new one? Who freakin knows. I'm going to put my original MC back on. If that doesn't fix it, then I'm officially giving up.
Thanks for the help everyone.
10-23-2011, 08:33 PM
#59
Dont mean to be an ***, but i think its the proportioning valve. It has been narrowed down to the rears. Either that or you may have a small leak in either the lines, boots on the caliper, or in the juction block. A small leak may not show up as a level drop in the MC to the naked eye. I would do a very detailed check on the lines in the rear. Have someone build pressure in the lines and hold it. check all fittings.
Good luck
-Ken
Good luck
-Ken
10-23-2011, 09:15 PM
#60
Just read the whole thread, I feel your pain. Any air leak in the system should also show up as a fluid leak. My only idea is some people don't understand you must open and close the bleed screw while coordinating with someone pushing the pedal. If the pedal hits the bottom of stroke before the screw is closed air comes back. That is why people add a tube submerged in a container of brake fluid. I think you said you have a power bleeder? Did you put on speed bleeders? I have had good results uing a Mity Vac sucking on the bleeder screws. I did not like the idea of pressurizing the reservior.
Last edited by 3Camaros; 10-23-2011 at 09:17 PM. Reason: spelling while intoxicated