Chassis stiffening/strengthening
11-04-2011, 10:29 AM
#22
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well that was easy haha..Looks like I'm gonna be doing a 22mm rear bar, LCA relocation brackets, and a Watts Link then should be pretty set from there
11-04-2011, 01:06 PM
#26
Sorry to drag this back on topic and all....
First, my bars are a matched set. Running the front without the rear will make the rear feel lazy and relatively slow to react, especially if you don't have adjustable shocks to help take up the slack on the response side.
Shocks matter, a LOT when it comes to how crisp and reactive a car is, which is why I run Koni's so much. Bilstien's are great for cruising around, but if you want the car to really, really work they way it can, then you need to pony up for the Koni's.
LCA brackets are useless for the purposes laid out here.
A Watts link is never a bad idea for a handling car, but again the rear bar is item #1 on the list (and bigger isn't better here, too big can be as bad as too small... like the 3 Bears you kind of want "just right"). In fact I also offer 1" hollow rear bars if you are hell bent on one, AND I make them in both standard and adjustable, just like the 7/8" rear bars too.
Chassis stiffness. Never bad to stiffen the chassis. Stiffer chassis make all suspension parts work better since you are essentially building a stronger foundation under the house.
You have some of my parts, but nothing like a setup I'd have recommended if I knew this was the goal from the start.
First, my bars are a matched set. Running the front without the rear will make the rear feel lazy and relatively slow to react, especially if you don't have adjustable shocks to help take up the slack on the response side.
Shocks matter, a LOT when it comes to how crisp and reactive a car is, which is why I run Koni's so much. Bilstien's are great for cruising around, but if you want the car to really, really work they way it can, then you need to pony up for the Koni's.
LCA brackets are useless for the purposes laid out here.
A Watts link is never a bad idea for a handling car, but again the rear bar is item #1 on the list (and bigger isn't better here, too big can be as bad as too small... like the 3 Bears you kind of want "just right"). In fact I also offer 1" hollow rear bars if you are hell bent on one, AND I make them in both standard and adjustable, just like the 7/8" rear bars too.
Chassis stiffness. Never bad to stiffen the chassis. Stiffer chassis make all suspension parts work better since you are essentially building a stronger foundation under the house.
You have some of my parts, but nothing like a setup I'd have recommended if I knew this was the goal from the start.
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www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
2023 UMI King of the Mountain Champion
11-05-2011, 10:11 AM
#28
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Sorry to drag this back on topic and all....
First, my bars are a matched set. Running the front without the rear will make the rear feel lazy and relatively slow to react, especially if you don't have adjustable shocks to help take up the slack on the response side.
Shocks matter, a LOT when it comes to how crisp and reactive a car is, which is why I run Koni's so much. Bilstien's are great for cruising around, but if you want the car to really, really work they way it can, then you need to pony up for the Koni's.
LCA brackets are useless for the purposes laid out here.
A Watts link is never a bad idea for a handling car, but again the rear bar is item #1 on the list (and bigger isn't better here, too big can be as bad as too small... like the 3 Bears you kind of want "just right"). In fact I also offer 1" hollow rear bars if you are hell bent on one, AND I make them in both standard and adjustable, just like the 7/8" rear bars too.
Chassis stiffness. Never bad to stiffen the chassis. Stiffer chassis make all suspension parts work better since you are essentially building a stronger foundation under the house.
You have some of my parts, but nothing like a setup I'd have recommended if I knew this was the goal from the start.
First, my bars are a matched set. Running the front without the rear will make the rear feel lazy and relatively slow to react, especially if you don't have adjustable shocks to help take up the slack on the response side.
Shocks matter, a LOT when it comes to how crisp and reactive a car is, which is why I run Koni's so much. Bilstien's are great for cruising around, but if you want the car to really, really work they way it can, then you need to pony up for the Koni's.
LCA brackets are useless for the purposes laid out here.
A Watts link is never a bad idea for a handling car, but again the rear bar is item #1 on the list (and bigger isn't better here, too big can be as bad as too small... like the 3 Bears you kind of want "just right"). In fact I also offer 1" hollow rear bars if you are hell bent on one, AND I make them in both standard and adjustable, just like the 7/8" rear bars too.
Chassis stiffness. Never bad to stiffen the chassis. Stiffer chassis make all suspension parts work better since you are essentially building a stronger foundation under the house.
You have some of my parts, but nothing like a setup I'd have recommended if I knew this was the goal from the start.
Thank you for brining it back on topic lol. If the front without the rear makes it feel lazy then I can't wait to get the rear and see how the car reacts to that! I'll be picking one up soon. Koni's were on the list but I didn't know they were that beneficial to handling over Bilsteins so they just moved up haha. Well I bought the car with the shocks/springs/FSB already on it, I've only added the subframes but the great thing about parts is they can be changed! What would be different from a setup you would recommend putting on?
