Wondering about 60'
#2
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From a UMI standpoint, lower arms, relocation brackets, tunnel mounted torque arm in top hole and drag bar.
Stickiest tire you can fit in, proper front shocks, proper nitrous tune otherwise.
And a good lane at the track.![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
Ramey
Stickiest tire you can fit in, proper front shocks, proper nitrous tune otherwise.
And a good lane at the track.
![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
Ramey
#3
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Next will be your lower control arms. These are essentially the only part that pushes the car forward, so it's fair to say that 800+ horsepower will overpower the factory lower control arms. Going with a rod ended set would probably be your best bet since that kind of power could wear on the poly bushings pretty quickly. I would also say that lower control arm relocation brackets would be a necessity at this point since they will give the car positive anti-squat and help a good tall sidewall 26-inch 28-inch and 29-inch tire bite real hard.
Those are the essentials that will get you where you need to be...albeit sloppy.
Now, lets look at how to tweak the launching. This will be done through adjustable shocks, rear sway bar and springs.
Installing adjustable shocks on all four corners helps out a lot because you can control how the front will unload, and how the rear will absorb the initial hit. This is good for controlling how long the weight is over the rear tires which will help get the car down the track more effectively. The factory shocks (DeCarbons) will not have any control over this and will probably squat really badly, something you don't want.
Naturally, your car will try and transfer most of its weight onto the back right tire. With you having that much power, it will probably look really ugly when it comes back. Having an adjustable rear drag bar, like our bolt-in XSB001, will restrict its weight transfer onto the passenger side and with the adjustment, you can get it to come back straight every time. The result is a more consistent 60-ft time with more effective use of your tires - reducing 60ft times.
Front drag springs will help out a lot with the front shocks in how they behave under acceleration. Out back, the factory rear springs use a soft spring rate, so the car could push down or "squat" a little too hard over the rear axle. We've actually had a lot of successes with customers using our lowering springs in the rear because of their more aggressive rate.
These are just the items you'll NEED to cut times that quick.
#4
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It is safe to say with a thousand HP just go to UMI or BMR ( or BMR and UMI) and just start ordering the biggest, strongest stuff they have. You will need it. Every ounce of chrom-moly they got. LOL