agresive handling from a DD??
01-29-2012, 09:48 PM
#21
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Of course man, you can only use synthetic grease for polyurethane. Like the grease packets they send you with the stuff you buy. You need to buy a tube of it so you can pump it through a grease gun. WS6store sells it or Summit, ect.. it's about $15 a tube, called "Superlube".
Stuff is damn near impossible to get off your hands so be careful with it.
Stuff is damn near impossible to get off your hands so be careful with it.
01-29-2012, 09:51 PM
#22
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Get the stuff I mentioned and for traction, buy a torque arm and some tubular REAR lower control arms since you already have a PHB. If you're going to lower the car anything over 1" you should also get some relocation brackets for the LCA's.
With that combo and the stuff you already have, your car should hook dead out of the hole.
Since they are a site sponsor now, look into Founders Performance for LCA's and brackets, and sub frame connectors if you buy them. It's all the same stuff, same design, quality ect.. Founders sells it dirt cheap though. Get you a set of non adjustable LCA's for like 60 bucks and the brackets for 50, instead of 100+. Same stuff, same poly bushings. I've got founders LCA's and panhard on my car and they're great. I first had Spohn and honestly there is no difference.
With that combo and the stuff you already have, your car should hook dead out of the hole.
Since they are a site sponsor now, look into Founders Performance for LCA's and brackets, and sub frame connectors if you buy them. It's all the same stuff, same design, quality ect.. Founders sells it dirt cheap though. Get you a set of non adjustable LCA's for like 60 bucks and the brackets for 50, instead of 100+. Same stuff, same poly bushings. I've got founders LCA's and panhard on my car and they're great. I first had Spohn and honestly there is no difference.
01-29-2012, 11:12 PM
#24
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Get the stuff I mentioned and for traction, buy a torque arm and some tubular REAR lower control arms since you already have a PHB. If you're going to lower the car anything over 1" you should also get some relocation brackets for the LCA's.
With that combo and the stuff you already have, your car should hook dead out of the hole.
Since they are a site sponsor now, look into Founders Performance for LCA's and brackets, and sub frame connectors if you buy them. It's all the same stuff, same design, quality ect.. Founders sells it dirt cheap though. Get you a set of non adjustable LCA's for like 60 bucks and the brackets for 50, instead of 100+. Same stuff, same poly bushings. I've got founders LCA's and panhard on my car and they're great. I first had Spohn and honestly there is no difference.
With that combo and the stuff you already have, your car should hook dead out of the hole.
Since they are a site sponsor now, look into Founders Performance for LCA's and brackets, and sub frame connectors if you buy them. It's all the same stuff, same design, quality ect.. Founders sells it dirt cheap though. Get you a set of non adjustable LCA's for like 60 bucks and the brackets for 50, instead of 100+. Same stuff, same poly bushings. I've got founders LCA's and panhard on my car and they're great. I first had Spohn and honestly there is no difference.
01-29-2012, 11:50 PM
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Well Strano's are 1.25 inches... BMR's are about 1.5 inch. Both are pretty damn stiff. You'll find that most quality lowering springs are going to be stiff. Both Strano's and BMR's are awesome and won't wear out or sag. Eibachs get sloppy and the rears sag pretty bad a lot of the time. Hotchkis makes a good spring as well, not sure of many others that have proven to be good and stand the test of time.. I know there are a few though.
fihnders lol... it's Founders. Don't try fihndersperformance.com, it won't work
fihnders lol... it's Founders. Don't try fihndersperformance.com, it won't work
01-30-2012, 08:12 AM
#29
Op you can get a nice setup for way less than that. The bilsteins and springs shouldn't set you back more than 750 if you buy new. Take your pick on relocation brackets, I chose bolt in for ease of install. For LCAs an adjustable poly/poly combo would be good. You already have the panhard. SFCs would be good, look around though, they go for cheap used. And sway bars go with stranos. Everything else is up to you, the k member should be the last thing you do if you do it at all. To put things in perspective I plan to have around 500 total in Stagg Shocks, Intrax/Eibach springs, BMR relocation brackets and I'm undecided on brand of LCAs and panhard. That will be a decent setup
01-30-2012, 11:19 AM
#30
Im no sucker for the aftermarket shiny stuff. I was just trying to say if thats wat it took id concider it an option. Im smart with my decision, so far iv learned that koni hands down is the way to go an lca's are on the top of most peoples list. Im goning to call strano but I wanted a few mixed opinion from people who drive their car dailh an dont have a warehouse full of stuff at their disposal.
My goal is not to drag race the car, its my DD and im looking for more of an autocross suspention but at the same time still be able to hook better than stock off the whole if needed.
All the feedback is helpful an much apretiated. The tubular stuff is nice but as stated before, no necessary on a DD.
My goal is not to drag race the car, its my DD and im looking for more of an autocross suspention but at the same time still be able to hook better than stock off the whole if needed.
All the feedback is helpful an much apretiated. The tubular stuff is nice but as stated before, no necessary on a DD.
I wouldn't put poly in the control arms. It's a waste, and the tightened feel people talk about, as being better, is worse then the placebo effect people associate with improved handling. Poly actually retards the ability of the rear control arms, and the caster bushing to function correctly. For a DD your best bet is to stay as close to OEM as possible with a few small tweak: Shocks. Add springs if you want to lower it.
01-30-2012, 12:00 PM
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Well Strano's are 1.25 inches... BMR's are about 1.5 inch. Both are pretty damn stiff. You'll find that most quality lowering springs are going to be stiff. Both Strano's and BMR's are awesome and won't wear out or sag. Eibachs get sloppy and the rears sag pretty bad a lot of the time. Hotchkis makes a good spring as well, not sure of many others that have proven to be good and stand the test of time.. I know there are a few though.
fihnders lol... it's Founders. Don't try fihndersperformance.com, it won't work
fihnders lol... it's Founders. Don't try fihndersperformance.com, it won't work
01-30-2012, 01:46 PM
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Well Strano's are 1.25 inches... BMR's are about 1.5 inch. Both are pretty damn stiff. You'll find that most quality lowering springs are going to be stiff. Both Strano's and BMR's are awesome and won't wear out or sag. Eibachs get sloppy and the rears sag pretty bad a lot of the time. Hotchkis makes a good spring as well, not sure of many others that have proven to be good and stand the test of time.. I know there are a few though.
fihnders lol... it's Founders. Don't try fihndersperformance.com, it won't work
fihnders lol... it's Founders. Don't try fihndersperformance.com, it won't work
the rigidity an stiffness is wat i want more than a comfortable ride, i would have bought a caddy if i wanted ride quality. Eibachs were not even a thought for me since iv got buddies with them an they r garbage after a few years.
01-30-2012, 01:59 PM
#33
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other than the obvious, wat are the differences between bolt in an weld in SFC? seems like if u used hardened grade 8 bolts an tightened them down real hard then there should be no great advantage to welding them in, other than never haveing to worry about them.
Also i have 2.5 inch exhaust true dual over the axel, i dont rub or scrape now but im concerned about dropping it to much an causeing a major headache. anybody eles dealt with this? its tucked up as close as it could be without kinking the pipes.
Also i have 2.5 inch exhaust true dual over the axel, i dont rub or scrape now but im concerned about dropping it to much an causeing a major headache. anybody eles dealt with this? its tucked up as close as it could be without kinking the pipes.
01-30-2012, 02:05 PM
#34
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Sounds like the only thing not on your list is a Watt's Link...
http://www.fays2.net/fays2_watts_link_21_.html
http://www.fays2.net/fays2_watts_link_21_.html
01-30-2012, 02:10 PM
#35
other than the obvious, wat are the differences between bolt in an weld in SFC? seems like if u used hardened grade 8 bolts an tightened them down real hard then there should be no great advantage to welding them in, other than never haveing to worry about them.
Also i have 2.5 inch exhaust true dual over the axel, i dont rub or scrape now but im concerned about dropping it to much an causeing a major headache. anybody eles dealt with this? its tucked up as close as it could be without kinking the pipes.
Also i have 2.5 inch exhaust true dual over the axel, i dont rub or scrape now but im concerned about dropping it to much an causeing a major headache. anybody eles dealt with this? its tucked up as close as it could be without kinking the pipes.
My car is lowered 1.2" all around, and I have 2.5" true duals. I don't usually scrape unless I'm careless, even over speed bumps. In a state with better roads I probably would never scrape.
01-30-2012, 03:54 PM
#36
If the OP wants a good handling setup then there's a lot of things being suggested that won't help him. Polyurethane should not be in control arms if you plan on taking corners. For a daily driver, rubber bushings are the best way to go. As far as SFCs go, I believe Sam Strano has said he doesn't even have them on his road course car. Relocation brackets for the LCAs are for drag racing, not handling. Personally I'm lowered about an inch on the stock panhard bar, and if the rear axle is not centered then I sure as hell can't tell, even with 17x11s on the back; save the money on the panhard bar as well. The stock K-member is heavy but it's stronger than aftermarket ones, and for a DD that will be driven hard, I'd just keep the stock K-member and lose the weight elsewhere.
Here's what I would suggest to the OP:
1. Shocks, either Bilsteins if on a budget or Konis if you have money to spend and/or plan on getting lowering springs
2. Sway bars, I would lean towards Strano's
3. Brakes, get a good set of rotors, pads, and fresh fluid
4. Sticky tires, I've heard good things about Nitto NT05s
5. Watts link if you can afford it, otherwise the stock panhard should be fine
6. Lightweight wheels that are strong enough for street duty but lighter than stock wheels, look at Welds or CCWs
If you want to lower the car stay away from Eibachs, get a set of Strano's springs or BMR's. Only Konis are really designed to handle stiff lowering springs though so any other shock may wear out prematurely. Or you could be a cheap *** like me and cut a coil off your stock springs, which won't be very stiff but will give you a nice stance.
Here's what I would suggest to the OP:
1. Shocks, either Bilsteins if on a budget or Konis if you have money to spend and/or plan on getting lowering springs
2. Sway bars, I would lean towards Strano's
3. Brakes, get a good set of rotors, pads, and fresh fluid
4. Sticky tires, I've heard good things about Nitto NT05s
5. Watts link if you can afford it, otherwise the stock panhard should be fine
6. Lightweight wheels that are strong enough for street duty but lighter than stock wheels, look at Welds or CCWs
If you want to lower the car stay away from Eibachs, get a set of Strano's springs or BMR's. Only Konis are really designed to handle stiff lowering springs though so any other shock may wear out prematurely. Or you could be a cheap *** like me and cut a coil off your stock springs, which won't be very stiff but will give you a nice stance.
01-30-2012, 04:03 PM
#37
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You can always weld in SFC's later. MWC has a set of "weld-only" SFC that do not leverage the LCA torque boxes as attachment points. They instead attach directly to the rear frame structure adjacent to the torque boxes. For bolt on's loctite them, and torque them to spec.
My car is lowered 1.2" all around, and I have 2.5" true duals. I don't usually scrape unless I'm careless, even over speed bumps. In a state with better roads I probably would never scrape.
My car is lowered 1.2" all around, and I have 2.5" true duals. I don't usually scrape unless I'm careless, even over speed bumps. In a state with better roads I probably would never scrape.
Looks like ill be ordering the koni shocks this week an strano springs next week. Lca relocation bracets an adj lca's next week as well. Im thinkin seriously about converting over to the watts link.
01-30-2012, 05:11 PM
#38
If the OP wants a good handling setup then there's a lot of things being suggested that won't help him. Polyurethane should not be in control arms if you plan on taking corners. For a daily driver, rubber bushings are the best way to go. As far as SFCs go, I believe Sam Strano has said he doesn't even have them on his road course car. Relocation brackets for the LCAs are for drag racing, not handling. Personally I'm lowered about an inch on the stock panhard bar, and if the rear axle is not centered then I sure as hell can't tell, even with 17x11s on the back; save the money on the panhard bar as well. The stock K-member is heavy but it's stronger than aftermarket ones, and for a DD that will be driven hard, I'd just keep the stock K-member and lose the weight elsewhere.
Here's what I would suggest to the OP:
1. Shocks, either Bilsteins if on a budget or Konis if you have money to spend and/or plan on getting lowering springs
2. Sway bars, I would lean towards Strano's
3. Brakes, get a good set of rotors, pads, and fresh fluid
4. Sticky tires, I've heard good things about Nitto NT05s
5. Watts link if you can afford it, otherwise the stock panhard should be fine
6. Lightweight wheels that are strong enough for street duty but lighter than stock wheels, look at Welds or CCWs
If you want to lower the car stay away from Eibachs, get a set of Strano's springs or BMR's. Only Konis are really designed to handle stiff lowering springs though so any other shock may wear out prematurely. Or you could be a cheap *** like me and cut a coil off your stock springs, which won't be very stiff but will give you a nice stance.
Here's what I would suggest to the OP:
1. Shocks, either Bilsteins if on a budget or Konis if you have money to spend and/or plan on getting lowering springs
2. Sway bars, I would lean towards Strano's
3. Brakes, get a good set of rotors, pads, and fresh fluid
4. Sticky tires, I've heard good things about Nitto NT05s
5. Watts link if you can afford it, otherwise the stock panhard should be fine
6. Lightweight wheels that are strong enough for street duty but lighter than stock wheels, look at Welds or CCWs
If you want to lower the car stay away from Eibachs, get a set of Strano's springs or BMR's. Only Konis are really designed to handle stiff lowering springs though so any other shock may wear out prematurely. Or you could be a cheap *** like me and cut a coil off your stock springs, which won't be very stiff but will give you a nice stance.
