tire hitting fender in rear... need advice quick
#1
12 Second Club
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Florida
Posts: 138
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Ive been running the prokit on the front of my car for years with the heater hose mod in the rear due to my duals/dumps and the speedbumps in my complex. well i finally moved into a new complex with no speedbumps and put my prokit on the rear.
problem is when i hit dips in the road at any kind of speed my right rear fender hits my tire pretty hard. 295/35 bfg, 10.5 inch wheel. have a double adjustable ph and yes the rearend is centered. I need new shocks in the rear, like some adjustable ones that are stiff im guessing? was thinking of getting qa1's for the rear but after some reading im not sure anymore for a dd.
car has prokit springs on all 4, aftermarket gas struts up front and stock shocks in rear. this is my dd. thanks in advance.
problem is when i hit dips in the road at any kind of speed my right rear fender hits my tire pretty hard. 295/35 bfg, 10.5 inch wheel. have a double adjustable ph and yes the rearend is centered. I need new shocks in the rear, like some adjustable ones that are stiff im guessing? was thinking of getting qa1's for the rear but after some reading im not sure anymore for a dd.
car has prokit springs on all 4, aftermarket gas struts up front and stock shocks in rear. this is my dd. thanks in advance.
Last edited by run em down; 01-31-2012 at 08:55 PM.
#2
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I went to a body shop and had them pull the fender out about 1/8-1/4 inch and we shaved off that little tiny extra piece of metal on the lip and grinding it smooth then painted the bare metal with a brush, it never rubs anymore and since I didnt shave the lip past the point where the two pieces of fender metal come into contact I didnt weaken the welds at all.
Another option is to get yourself a fender roller and roll the lip up so its out of the way, some people on here will rent the tool to you to do this.
Another option is to get yourself a fender roller and roll the lip up so its out of the way, some people on here will rent the tool to you to do this.
#6
TECH Regular
iTrader: (6)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I got 295 good years on mine with a 10.5. Passanger side had to be rolled to make it stop.
Agree with the fact that with the stocker shocks and pro kit you are pretty much pissin in the wind!
Even with desent shock and good springs you still might rub! I did!
Agree with the fact that with the stocker shocks and pro kit you are pretty much pissin in the wind!
Even with desent shock and good springs you still might rub! I did!
Last edited by ta-stanger; 02-03-2012 at 10:02 AM.
#7
Launching!
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: MARYVILLE TN
Posts: 259
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Ive been running the prokit on the front of my car for years with the heater hose mod in the rear due to my duals/dumps and the speedbumps in my complex. well i finally moved into a new complex with no speedbumps and put my prokit on the rear.
problem is when i hit dips in the road at any kind of speed my right rear fender hits my tire pretty hard. 295/35 bfg, 10.5 inch wheel. have a double adjustable ph and yes the rearend is centered. I need new shocks in the rear, like some adjustable ones that are stiff im guessing? was thinking of getting qa1's for the rear but after some reading im not sure anymore for a dd.
car has prokit springs on all 4, aftermarket gas struts up front and stock shocks in rear. this is my dd. thanks in advance.
problem is when i hit dips in the road at any kind of speed my right rear fender hits my tire pretty hard. 295/35 bfg, 10.5 inch wheel. have a double adjustable ph and yes the rearend is centered. I need new shocks in the rear, like some adjustable ones that are stiff im guessing? was thinking of getting qa1's for the rear but after some reading im not sure anymore for a dd.
car has prokit springs on all 4, aftermarket gas struts up front and stock shocks in rear. this is my dd. thanks in advance.
Trending Topics
#8
TECH Regular
#9
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: MA
Posts: 3,934
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
New shocks and springs won't cure the problem. It might make the impact a little less. Full suspension travel is defined by the bumpstops.
Is it the inner or outer fender that is coming into contact? Outer fender maybe need some fender rolling. Inner fender might require some BFH
Is it the inner or outer fender that is coming into contact? Outer fender maybe need some fender rolling. Inner fender might require some BFH
#10
TECH Resident
iTrader: (12)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
If its the outer fender, like mentioned above, rolling the fender helps. Also if you have the funds, a Watts link will make it less likely to hit on the right when the suspension travels, plus the car will handle alot better (even better if you upgrade the shocks too).
Otherwise you can cheat the rear more to the left with the adj phr to allow for larger arc travel on the right side.
Otherwise you can cheat the rear more to the left with the adj phr to allow for larger arc travel on the right side.
#11
TECH Resident
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Patterson, CA
Posts: 858
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
i'm on B+G springs w/ 10.5" rear wheels. i dont hit my fender but i know i should have used BFH on the fender well. cuz if i take my drive way at to much of an angle. i scrape the inside.