De-coupled torque arm. Any experience out there?
#42
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I only tested on the street so far. Got hard on the brakes. It feels good. The zip tie dropped a little.. about an inch or inch and a half in the safety loop.
Key is to adjust the arm until the torque arm comes down. You measure with a zip tie. If it bottoms on the safety loop then you should experience really bad braking and brake hop.
We shall see.. all I did was test on the street a little. I'm sure I'll need to make adjustments once I get an event or two in
Key is to adjust the arm until the torque arm comes down. You measure with a zip tie. If it bottoms on the safety loop then you should experience really bad braking and brake hop.
We shall see.. all I did was test on the street a little. I'm sure I'll need to make adjustments once I get an event or two in
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So there is no question it launches much better! It's not magical though.. you still have to launch correctly! That was my problem. I got a few nice launches with it like I never have before. But when I didn't rev high enough, I bogged really bad and was out of the race round 3. The track was really slippery too. Between the rain and fluid that a previous car spit out around the entire track, I was struggling to keep the back end straight.
Next race is Oct 15th. I should also try to get into an autox to get a feel for the car between now and then.
Next race is Oct 15th. I should also try to get into an autox to get a feel for the car between now and then.
#44
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I have UETA#4, I think it's been on my daily driver since at least 2004? I don't recall exactly. As an early adopter with a soft rear suspension, it took me awhile to get it sorted. It definitely wasn't sorted when Sam Strano drove my car during an Evolution school in the local area years back. You truly don't know how much it needs to be adjusted until it's driven in severe aggression on hot sticky R-compound tires on dry concrete.
I stopped by an FRRAX acquaintance's home in Kentucky on my way to the original LSFest because he is an engineer and had it setup on his car. He helped me get the correct spacing on the washers. No problems at the LSFest autocross nor their brake competition with the bar banging the loop with R-compounds.
I stopped by an FRRAX acquaintance's home in Kentucky on my way to the original LSFest because he is an engineer and had it setup on his car. He helped me get the correct spacing on the washers. No problems at the LSFest autocross nor their brake competition with the bar banging the loop with R-compounds.
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Yeah Jim, I read all the UETA threads on FRRAX so I could get an understanding of what the adjustment is about. I probably don't have enough preload at this point. I remember reading that you had too much preload. At first attempt at installing without touching the spacers I tried putting it on. I had to remove one of the 2-3mm spacers from the link to where I felt the rear adjustment rod end could be adjusted decently either way.
The UETA is the main focus of my underbody clearance now. I used to only scrape on my cats. Now I'm scraping on either the brace or the loop. At my local track we have some hump/hill things we have to drive over and I think I scrape on these on my way over them. Any other situation doesn't really matter.
The UETA is the main focus of my underbody clearance now. I used to only scrape on my cats. Now I'm scraping on either the brace or the loop. At my local track we have some hump/hill things we have to drive over and I think I scrape on these on my way over them. Any other situation doesn't really matter.
#46
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I stopped by an FRRAX acquaintance's home in Kentucky on my way to the original LSFest because he is an engineer and had it setup on his car. He helped me get the correct spacing on the washers. No problems at the LSFest autocross nor their brake competition with the bar banging the loop with R-compounds.
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I also wanted to point out that I think this arm under accelleration acts like an even shorter torque arm than probably most of all short torque arms out there. Short tq arms typically mount at the g-load tunnel brace location. The decoupled tq arm pushes up on the car about 6-12 inches behind the brace the way it's designed. So techically it probably gives you better torque arm leverage on a launch to hit the rear tires harder.
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I have done back to back testing in a autocross enviroment the Globalwest Torque arm to a Spohn torque arm. I found no performance advantage one over the other. The globalwest arm was much more difficult to install and It left holes in the floorboard of the car after removal that i had to plug. I stayed with the spohn because the global unit would not support different transmission swaps as easily.
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I have done back to back testing in a autocross enviroment the Globalwest Torque arm to a Spohn torque arm. I found no performance advantage one over the other. The globalwest arm was much more difficult to install and It left holes in the floorboard of the car after removal that i had to plug. I stayed with the spohn because the global unit would not support different transmission swaps as easily.
The UETA I dont think should ever cause any floorpan damage and I don't think it ever has. I'd imagine a typical tunnel mount arm that connects to the floorpan since it can pull down, twist, and also only puts all the force on both gload brace points could be much more likely to cause damage. The UETA adds a third mounting point near the fuel filter mount that should spread out the force on the floorpan. Also.. the force is only upward.. since decoupled torque arms detach and don't pull down on anything.
I really need to get out on an autox sometime to try it out. This year I've taken off for autoxing though to get yardwork done for once
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Well they are better than what I would give you, lol. Sorry, I'm too lazy to take pics. I don't think I'm allowed to post links since they arent a sponsor. In my opinion the pictures they have on the site are pretty good and they also have a diagram/drawing explaining how it works.
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there might of been some postings from guys that aren't active on here anymore in an old thread of mine, also sam and UE went back and forth about it and theres allot of info on suspension physics> https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspensio...oupled-ta.html
Last edited by z_speedfreak; 09-18-2012 at 08:54 AM.
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So a year later, I finally got out to an autox. The arm has felt great so far and I didn't have the control issues that I can recall I usually had. Was able to get 1st in a local club.
The guys were right though when they said you absolutely have to test braking out on a track surface at track speeds on your track tires at track temperatures... because I experienced a bit of brake hop. I looked under my car and noticed the ziptie was gone from the loop. Basically if the arm hits the bottom of the safety loop, then you get brake hop. I'm laughing at my post from last year when I mentioned I tested the braking on the street and the zip tie dropped an inch. That's an obvious sign of not enough preload. The arm shouldnt drop on street braking.
So I have a little more adjustment to make obviously. I'll add another ziptie back on and then test it out again at a future autocross.
The guys were right though when they said you absolutely have to test braking out on a track surface at track speeds on your track tires at track temperatures... because I experienced a bit of brake hop. I looked under my car and noticed the ziptie was gone from the loop. Basically if the arm hits the bottom of the safety loop, then you get brake hop. I'm laughing at my post from last year when I mentioned I tested the braking on the street and the zip tie dropped an inch. That's an obvious sign of not enough preload. The arm shouldnt drop on street braking.
So I have a little more adjustment to make obviously. I'll add another ziptie back on and then test it out again at a future autocross.
#59
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oh subscribed. i've got an adjustable spohn right now and was looking to pickup a UETA.
all i do is autox and lapping...keep us posted please.
and thanks for the info already provided.
all i do is autox and lapping...keep us posted please.
and thanks for the info already provided.
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I'm only one opinion. On Frrax there's a ton of people with feedback. Go check it out and base your decision on that rather than just me. I decided to give it a shot. It's a little bit of work to install.. some things might not bolt right in perfect, but you'll figure it out. Also it requires a bit of test and tune before you get it setup perfect.