How to tell if rear LCA bushings are bad
04-24-2012, 05:28 AM
#21
TECH Senior Member
Like I said, I have read and understand the logic behind poly bushings, trailing arm suspensions, rubber vs poly comparisons, panhard bars, binding senarios etc.
However, my car rides less harsh and handles better with tubular lcas with founders "poly" bushings than it did with stock lcas and 30k moog replacements.
If they didn't I would take them off and caulk up the $55 to bad judgement. However, they feel great and I recommend them.
However, my car rides less harsh and handles better with tubular lcas with founders "poly" bushings than it did with stock lcas and 30k moog replacements.
If they didn't I would take them off and caulk up the $55 to bad judgement. However, they feel great and I recommend them.
04-24-2012, 07:03 AM
#22
Of course information is key, and understanding how suspension moves and works is tremendously helpful. Sometimes we still have to put our hands on the stove to learn our lesson though.
I would never recommend someone use rod ends on a street car if they can avoid it. They are harsh as hell, "quiet ones" are still noisy, and road grime kills them. I'd still take them over poly though.
04-24-2012, 06:32 PM
#23
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A "stiffer" feel is not better handling. Going around city streets at 35mph is not a measure of "better handling". Push the car to its limits on less than ideal road surface and you will see the rear getting skiddish. If you are not pushing the car then don't say it handles better.
Also I wouldn't advise pushing any car to its handling limits on bumpy or a "less than ideal road surface", especially a car that is setup for drag racing like mine. I did that with my Vettes, the T/A is a muscle car to me, street/strip and good looks only.
04-24-2012, 06:41 PM
#24
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I have had rubber, poly, rod ends, and now elastomer ends (rubber rod ends). Poly would bind, I could hear it causing the metal in the torque box to creak and pop from force. It would, even with lots of grease, squeak, and of course that pleasant sound of metal being relieved of stress as the car stopped.
Of course information is key, and understanding how suspension moves and works is tremendously helpful. Sometimes we still have to put our hands on the stove to learn our lesson though.
I would never recommend someone use rod ends on a street car if they can avoid it. They are harsh as hell, "quiet ones" are still noisy, and road grime kills them. I'd still take them over poly though.
Of course information is key, and understanding how suspension moves and works is tremendously helpful. Sometimes we still have to put our hands on the stove to learn our lesson though.
I would never recommend someone use rod ends on a street car if they can avoid it. They are harsh as hell, "quiet ones" are still noisy, and road grime kills them. I'd still take them over poly though.
In the real world, my car feels tighter and rides less harsh. Take it or leave it.
