Tightened Roto-Joints, now they squeak
#1
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,360
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Tightened Roto-Joints, now they squeak
I finally tightened up my LCA roto-joints this past weekend, first time in ~20K miles and 1.5 years of daily driving. They were pretty loose, I probably got about 4-5 full rotations on the body joints and 2-3 on the axle joints.
Here's what I did, loosen the lock screw, tighten the joint, tighten the lock screw, wipe off the excess grease/grime, re-install them on the car, and finally grease them to the point of pushing out the old grease with fresh marine grease. Now it squeaks worse than cold polyurethane. The ride is nice and firm again but the noise is 10X more annoying than the transitioning load rattle from before.
I got them pretty tight, not sure if maybe I went too tight? If I had to roughly compare, maybe like putting 40 lb/ft on the spanner wrench?? I remember when they were new, there was no possible way to rotate the joint with my hand and it's pretty close to that as far as tightness goes. Anyone that has tightened these have any experience?
Here's what I did, loosen the lock screw, tighten the joint, tighten the lock screw, wipe off the excess grease/grime, re-install them on the car, and finally grease them to the point of pushing out the old grease with fresh marine grease. Now it squeaks worse than cold polyurethane. The ride is nice and firm again but the noise is 10X more annoying than the transitioning load rattle from before.
I got them pretty tight, not sure if maybe I went too tight? If I had to roughly compare, maybe like putting 40 lb/ft on the spanner wrench?? I remember when they were new, there was no possible way to rotate the joint with my hand and it's pretty close to that as far as tightness goes. Anyone that has tightened these have any experience?
#3
I finally tightened up my LCA roto-joints this past weekend, first time in ~20K miles and 1.5 years of daily driving. They were pretty loose, I probably got about 4-5 full rotations on the body joints and 2-3 on the axle joints.
Here's what I did, loosen the lock screw, tighten the joint, tighten the lock screw, wipe off the excess grease/grime, re-install them on the car, and finally grease them to the point of pushing out the old grease with fresh marine grease. Now it squeaks worse than cold polyurethane. The ride is nice and firm again but the noise is 10X more annoying than the transitioning load rattle from before.
I got them pretty tight, not sure if maybe I went too tight? If I had to roughly compare, maybe like putting 40 lb/ft on the spanner wrench?? I remember when they were new, there was no possible way to rotate the joint with my hand and it's pretty close to that as far as tightness goes. Anyone that has tightened these have any experience?
Here's what I did, loosen the lock screw, tighten the joint, tighten the lock screw, wipe off the excess grease/grime, re-install them on the car, and finally grease them to the point of pushing out the old grease with fresh marine grease. Now it squeaks worse than cold polyurethane. The ride is nice and firm again but the noise is 10X more annoying than the transitioning load rattle from before.
I got them pretty tight, not sure if maybe I went too tight? If I had to roughly compare, maybe like putting 40 lb/ft on the spanner wrench?? I remember when they were new, there was no possible way to rotate the joint with my hand and it's pretty close to that as far as tightness goes. Anyone that has tightened these have any experience?
ramey
#4
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,360
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Since it seems like they may be too tight, are there any downfalls, besides the noise, to driving like this for 1-200 miles until I can get back under it this weekend?
#5
When we build them from new, the tolerances on the ball, Delrin inserts and end caps are very precise. So, our assemblers run the nut down until flush with the body (i.e. there is no particular torque value). As they wear, the outer nut can go slightly below the body.
You shouldn't have any trouble for a few miles until you can loosen them.
The Delrin is available separately for a minimal cost should something go amok.
ramey
You shouldn't have any trouble for a few miles until you can loosen them.
The Delrin is available separately for a minimal cost should something go amok.
ramey
#6
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,360
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
When we build them from new, the tolerances on the ball, Delrin inserts and end caps are very precise. So, our assemblers run the nut down until flush with the body (i.e. there is no particular torque value). As they wear, the outer nut can go slightly below the body.
You shouldn't have any trouble for a few miles until you can loosen them.
The Delrin is available separately for a minimal cost should something go amok.
ramey
You shouldn't have any trouble for a few miles until you can loosen them.
The Delrin is available separately for a minimal cost should something go amok.
ramey