doran_the_man

Ok, video time.

Bad axle / pinion bearing

Pardon my poor film skills. Noise starts at 0:30 mark.

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

Oh... the car isn't moving...

Sounds like your spare tire hardware or a heat shield is loose. If you aren't moving when you get the sound, your axle is fine.

doran_the_man

The rotors were clanking.. I didn't secure them with a lugnut. What else could it be?

The axles were spinning, I left the car in third gear. Why would it not be the axles?

Raoul-Duke

iTrader: (6)

Mine has a similar sound just not quite as loud as that. and it only happens in gear when my car is moving. I think I might try replacing the brake shoes on the e-brake after adjusting them. I still have not got around to do it =/

doran_the_man

Are you sure it only happens when the car is moving? Mine starts at 10mph in free spin.

Raoul-Duke

iTrader: (6)

If the car is rolling it makes the sound, (in gear or not) I apologize if I stated differently, when it is sitting still running, there is no sound....I could rev it, still no sound

doran_the_man

My wheels are spinning in the video. It's in the air so it's not moving. Let me know when you adjust the brake, I'm afraid it's the bearings.

Raoul-Duke

iTrader: (6)

Oh thats right, my bad lol I def will, hopefully this will be done in the next two weeks.

Damn I hope its not the bearings either, How much will that run us?

doran_the_man

Adjusted the E-brake. That wasn't it. I spun the axles by hand and they roared. Bingo. I think the bearings are pretty cheap, just gotta make sure the axles aren't too scarred up.

Raoul-Duke

iTrader: (6)

Damn, let me know how much it costs and how hard the install is man.

I wish you the bestest luck

Holtrop21

Did you ever figure out exactly what is was ? I know this post is old but I am having the same problem and the same exact symptoms. The only difference is when I spin the rotor with no caliper on.. I hear the noise. As soon as I take the rotor off and spin.... noise is gone. I bought new rotors and is the SAME thing.. so it's not the rotors. What else could it be ?

RobAce

Holtrop21 I know this is old but I am experiencing the same with my rotors. Spin with rotor no caliper have scrubbing, spin with no rotor no noise. What did you figure out?

LeDucracing

I know this post is older, but I was doing research because I was having the same noise issues and this thread popped up.
I'm having the problem: rotor on I get noise, rotor off no noise. I finally figured it out if anyone else has this same issue in the future or still trying to figure it out.

It's the E-Brake shoes that are making the noise, they don't sit right and shift when the E-brake is used. Once the E-brake shoes are adjusted correctly you want them to grab and hold the car up to 1,250 rpms to pass inspection and to hold the car on a hill. The thing is once the shoes are set in place where you want them and put everything together you can't see it, but once you first use that E-brake for some reason the shoes will shift off center and not re-align giving us this dreadful noise we all hate that won't go away. A lot of us thought it was the rear-end differential or bearings, but it wasn't. It's the stupid Emergency brake shoes slightly getting off centered and not correctly lining back up after using the Emergency brake.

What I think is happening is that there's a screw and a plate that's SUPPOSED to HOLD the Emergency shoes on top in place. After adjusting and aligning the E-brake where you want it put that rotor on for the last time nice and flush against the shoes. Spin the rotor. Do you hear it? You shouldn't, I didn't. That sound went away.

So what I would do guys who are having this trouble, adjust E-brake where you need it to be enough to grab the car on a hill and 1,250 rpms hitting the gas while engaged for inspection. When you figure out your sweet spot, take everything off again. Yes I know it's frustrating, but we've all done it. Take it off, take the rotor off. Notice that when you take the rotor off.. having a little trouble like the shoes are rubbing. Look at the shoes, make sure they are centered and flush to the backing plate and rotor. So now, when you put the rotor on should go on smoothly. Put the bracket on and spin the rotor before the caliper. The noise went away! It did for me and it should for you. Don't forget to do both sides and it will go away. But guess what, if you use that E-brake just that first one time that noise will come back. TEST: DO NOT TOUCH OR USE THE E-brake and go for a drive. Do you hear any noise? If the noise completely went away, its your Emergency brake shoes that stopped rubbing after you re-aligned them and its not the axle or bearings. If you still here a noise then its something else it could be your axle or bearings.

But remember, once you use that E-brake after driving that noise will come back on and you will have to do it all over again. I haven't fixed mine yet, just figured it out and wanted to pass the info forward. For some reason that screw and plate doesn't hold the shoes as it should on top and when the E-brake is engaged it shifts the shoes out of align ever so slightly enough where we here them rubbing. I'm goin to try and fix mine soon. I'm going to try and find a new plate and screw that may be stronger, like brass because I think this plate metal is weak and over time doesn't hold the shoes as it should causing them to shift after we just adjusted the E-brake perfectly. Hopefully with two new STRONGER plates, screws and newer shoes (could be warped) they will stay in place I can get this dreadful sound gone. I will post an update when completed!

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

Every time the rear rotors are changed or machined, the emergency brakes need to be adjusted to fit the new bore of the rotor hat. You are correct that any drag is going to create noise until the brake material burns away. That screw and clamp doesn't hold the pad securely. It just helps it center up when released so it doesn't move too far off the mark from the actuator. (The pad moves around in this clamp normally, but may seize up a little bit over time as things gunk up and rust - no big deal; it all cleans up during servicing.)

The factory procedure for adjustment is in this thread and will give a precise hold: https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspensio...ke-01-z28.html

While servicing the brakes, one might want to upgrade the dust boots: https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspensio...xperiment.html

LeDucracing

I have a 2000 Camaro SS well taken care of about 60K on it now. I completely took apart the rear brakes 3 times trying to figure this out, adjusted the E-brake correctly backed it down almost all the way! Everything outside the plate was cleaned by myself, wasn't dirty at all. I've already put 10K miles on it from that time hoping that whatever material was there would burn up, but it didn't the Park shoes are still rubbing and still making noise I noticed during those 3 times trying to diagnose it the Emergency brake shoes wouldn't align back all the way correctly. The Park shoes would be about 1/16" off center point where I put them last after engaging and releasing the Parking brake one time, just enough to cause them to rub and make that noise. Now that you mention it wssix99 maybe something is seizing up on the inside of the plate that I didn't look at. Thank you!

I never looked at or cleaned the inside of the plate, Dust boots, pushrod or brake lever. Next time I get under there I will take a look on the inside of the plate and clean up the dust boots, pushrod and brake lever. I will probably add some nipples too keep it extra protected!! Maybe something on the inside is rusted or dirty by the lever causing it to seize up a little not allowing it to Fully dis-engage and center the park shoes correctly. I'll take a look at the park brake lever, spring and cables could be hung up might give it a little tug too.

Here is a diagram if anyone ever needs it as a reference: Parking Brake Parts

What I was trying to explain what was happening earlier, in this diagram the Top part of the Park Shoes were not aligning back up to #2 The Screw and #3 The Hold Down Spring. It would shift off center, just even using the Park brake one time. I will take those off give them a real good cleaning and put them back on one more time. It looked like that Clamp Hold Down Spring wasn't centering the shoes back to where they are supposed to be that may be Seized. But when I was looking at it last it looked like I could turn that screw more make it tighter to Hold that clamp spring down more which would hold the shoes in place better.

Once I have time to do everything I will post and give update if it worked.

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

This was ;my first thought when I was reading your first paragraph. I think if you disassemble the cylinder, the adjusting screw, the pin in side, and the lever and then lube that all back up, things will center up nicely. The fact that your shoe is ending up off-kilter makes me think that those internals aren't sitting on the actuating lever correctly.

LeDucracing

Will do all that too! Thanks WSSIX99.
I'm also going to replace the shoes, I bought the car like this so I don't know who did the work before me because I could tell they were newer or if it was even done correctly for that matter. All I know is that it could have the wrong shoes on there and not know lol. I'm going to get New Shoes so I know exactly what's on there and like WSSIX99 says going to disassemble the: cylinders, adjusting screws, the pins inside, and levers lube them all up put them back hopefully that will fix it and center the shoes back up correctly! Let you know in a few weeks...

LeDucracing

Quick question: What kind of specific Lube should I use on the cylinder, adjusting screw, pin and lever? Any recommendations that works best?
Thanks

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

Just regular brake lube:

LeDucracing

Ok I got that lube and I have the calipers and rotors off. I see a lot of guys on here have a hard time taking off these shoes I can see why. Any tricks I should know about?

From the Diagram above (Our brakes are flipped upside down): I have to loosen the screw (#2) to the Clip (#3), but it's a pain to get in there do I have to take the clip out or just loosen? Any tricks you know of? I guess I have to use a right angled screw driver to get in there? I lubed the screws up with WD40 and letting it sit overnight so it doesn't strip when I loosen them hopefully it doesn't give me an trouble tomorrow. Also, I have to take the two screws (#13) out of the back plate to take out the cylinder and adjuster (#5,7,10) to lube, correct?
I'm just making sure I'm doing this the correct way because I don't want to strip or snap any of these screws that wouldn't be good because (#2) is hard to get at and (#13) are little rusty.
Any input would be helpful!