Arctic2002ss

I have BMR LCAs, 35mm front, and 22mm rear bars. The car tends to understeer. I have now change to an S60 rear with my LCAs set on the lowest holes in the relocation brackets. That did loosen it up a little when entering a corners but seemed to help exits under throttle. I may have to adjust that when I get back to road coarse stuff. As others have said, I think your issue is more with the bars. I don't agree that the LCAs themselves are the problem.

z28bryan

iTrader: (7)

If the OP can try one thing at a time and test, that would be pretty useful to us all.

I am keeping posted!

stroked383HSR

iTrader: (12)

well i switched the sway bars back.......
I still have the BMR lower control arms so lets see if i can tell the handling is a little better than what i had.

Im just gonna save my money and get me a set of poly/rod ended LCA like suggested.

TA_Freak

stroked383HSR, Have you seen any improvements with your situation? I put my stock control arms back on and really can't tell the difference. I sent an email to Founders and inquired about the poly vs. rubber for the LCAs as well as placement on the relocation brackets. They didn't touch on the poly question ...What they said was that even though the car was lowered, when the LCAs are on the lower holes, it will make the rear feel like "toe out". I am going to move the LCAs up and go from there. I may even put the Founders LCAs back on after that.

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

Yeah, running brackets and the arms tail down is not ideal. And a bigger rear bar with a stock front isn't either. And an IROC car is likely 23 or 24mm. I run 22mm with a much larger than stock bar (which is 30mm), I use a 35mm bar.

Basically the rear is too stiff, and is setup to roll oversteer. The front is softer than I'd want. Add the two and you get a car that is um, "free".

BMR Tech2

iTrader: (5)

Sorry for missing this thread. If you're using the lowest hole on the relocation brackets, those are typically only suggest for drag racing use. The first hole will work to correct the loss in suspension geometry when you lower the car. This will bring it back to around where the factory location was - this is a good thing. The control arms will be close to parallel with the ground. As for the bushings, we have plenty of customers using polyurethane without any issues. However, if your main goals with the car were handling, we try to suggest the rod/poly combo. These are the ideal handling arm, in our opinion.

But, the problems you're having sound like a combination issue with parts not working too well. Not a big deal. This can easily be addressed with a better matching set of bars, moving the lower control arms back up, and then identifying if you're using the proper setting for your shocks - which I presume you are. If you're still having these issues, we can try out a set of rubber bushings in your lower control arms that we have and see if that helps. These will eliminate the bind problems you might be seeing.

- Kevin

stroked383HSR

iTrader: (12)

actually ....I might and I say I might feel a bit of a difference in the rear not feeling "Tight" once i switched back to the stock 19mm rear sway that was on the TA to begin with.

SO I now have the stock front and rear sways and the relo brackets set to the upper hole with my BMR poly/poly tubular LCA's.

and strano/bilsteins...


so i dont know

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

First, being that he has Bilstein's, shock settings aren't going to change. Second, as I stated before a bigger rear bar with a stock front is a no-no and will make the car prove to oversteer (or loose, or "free" in terms of balance). All poly LCA's are a huge no-no for anything other than drag race only because they add a lot of roll stiffness because the axle cannot articulate freely.

This isn't hard stuff, and you got caught in what many do--throwing parts at the car that aren't proper for what you want. This is made worse by what I call "internet wisdom".

You are now going the right way getting back to a more basic setup and eliminating some of the mismatch or incorrect items. You should not be afraid of bigger swaybars, or LCA's, etc... as long at they are proper for the job. What's proper? Well, I have my opinions and they serve me and my customers pretty well. I could have predicted this just looking at the list of parts. In fact if we talked on the phone, I may have done just that.

stroked383HSR

iTrader: (12)

yeah i understand just throwing parts on a car wont work....I know that true about engines but im new to this whole suspension stuff.
My IROC was setup for drag/street racing but i want my TA setup for handling and the occasional full throttle street run....hint hint!

so my next thing to do is ..change my LCA's to?

stock with LE1 bushing? or poly/rod ? I dont want anything that is going to be noisy.


do poly end links do anything "negative"

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

Let's take one thing at a time. Try it with the stock rear bar and the LCA's moved up. See what that does. Should make the rear feel softer and the car a lot less edgy.

Then we will work from there. If you want a handling car, then I suggest you add my swaybars since they compliment the springs (I designed both to work together and use both on my car that you can see me running a track day in on my website). The LCA's aren't ideal, but may be workable once we do the bars. Remember I don't run a really big rear bar like many do, so the stiffness you are getting in roll from the LCA's is somewhat offset by that. Ultimately any suspension part that binds isn't perfect but what's "PERFECT"? We just keep working at it, using our heads and taking our time and based on what the car is driving like, not internet heresay.

If you are hell-bent on changing LCA's then I'll look at putting you on one of the various sets of UMI poly/roto-joint arms if you want aftermarket arms, or you can use stock arms with 1LE solid bushings (which I have too) if you want absolutely no noise.

New bars, mine.. come with all new hardware and bushings. They are poly but the bushings on a bar don't bind like they do in an LCA, they work in a whole different way. Poly is not bad in and of itself, it's how and were it's used. You know, like guns aren't bad, or fast cars aren't bad, unless they are mis-used.

stroked383HSR

iTrader: (12)

i do and did put the "stock" rear bar back on the car and moved the LCA's to the top hole.

and yes it feel alot softer or not as tight in the rear. That was actually the first thing I noticed but I thought it was just in my head "wanting to feel a difference"

Im not set on changing the rear LCA's but i just want what best for what im looking for.

If i did change I would rather go with stock and the 1LE bushing...."alot cheaper $$"

BMR Tech2

iTrader: (5)

Excellent! As I said, if you would like to get away from poly, we offer rubber replacement bushings for our lower control arms that will fix your issue of binding and will not cost more than $30 shipped. Still get to use your tubular arms while reducing noise and binding.
- Kevin

stroked383HSR

iTrader: (12)

i looked for the bushings on your site but couldnt find them.

care to show me the way?

also, they need to be pressed out and pressed in? correct? so its not something i can do at home huh?

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

http://www.stranoparts.com/searchbym...D=18&ModelID=7 Bushings on that page...

They are pressed into the arms. If you have a press you can do it at home.

Kevin97ss

Kevin, can you give some more detail on your rubber replacement bushings like O.D or possibly the p/n of the poly bushings they replace. I'm interested in a set but its for a custom made LCA. Looking to make a rod/rubber set up for street duty.

BMR Tech2

iTrader: (5)

They can only be ordered direct from us over the phone or by email. They aren't a part we list on our site - just like other replacement parts.

I will PM you with the details.

- Kevin

BMR Tech2

iTrader: (5)

PM Sent.