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I just replaced my EBCM (the six hex screw box on the back of the ABS) No more lights. And now I can select when my traction control is on or off. Just an update for my issue. If you have questions, send me a pm. I also have an extra 3 channel complete ABS unit as well as a 4 channel if someone needs it.
I have this problem with my abs light as well. I unplugged the sensor on the rear wheel and cleaned it up real good with electrical cleaner. A couple days later after a medium brake down from 120mph the light went out and I figured the circuit had fully dried, but next startup sure as **** there was that light again.
Thanks to Trans Am7935 I have a new lead on this pesky light fix. I will clean the underhood sensor, give it a few days to dry, and post the results here. Hopefully this does the trick, otherwise I may have to PM Hawk317 for a module.
any chance you have a staggered wheel size? like maybe bigger rear tires? That'll set off the lights (that's my problem lol)
Yeah. That happened to my buddy too. He was having the same problem. He's got 19's in the back and 18's in the front with 35 sidewalls on both. Different RPM's for each axle.
Yeah. That happened to my buddy too. He was having the same problem. He's got 19's in the back and 18's in the front with 35 sidewalls on both. Different RPM's for each axle.
The entire electrical system goes into BSCM at speeds in excess of 100mph. All the guages brown out for a half second or so and the abs light comes on. If if turn the ignition off then back on again it resets. Oh and bscm is bat **** crazy mode.
This is a super late follow up but here it is!.
Just to recap i had the abs inop light on, scanner said it was for the rear speed sensor located on the differential.
I changed that and same problem, i cleaned and inspected the wire going to that sensor, also nothing.
Cleaned my abs module as well and nothing.
With the sensor plugged in the abs would kick on at random times and my brake light would sometimes come up.
So i gave up.
Well today i went to change the rear diff seal and fluid and look what i found..
The ring for the speed sensor was broken and loose, teeth were slightly grounded down as well, no idea what could have cause this.
I just ended up cutting it off with a cutoff wheel and im leaving it at that, didnt feel like pulling the differential out to replace it, i dont need it anyways.
Other than that the differential looked good, couple metal shavings but the teeth and everything else works, including the lsd.
I got very lucky
Had been dealing with my "ABS INOP" "ASR OFF" and "BRAKE" all being lit simultaneously, intermittently, for the last several months. It used to take 20-35 minutes of driving before they'd all light up. After a while, that shrunk down to nothing. Sometimes, they'd light up immediately upon ignition. And while they used to clear every time I'd just shut off the engine and restart, by the end, they'd stay lit most of the time after a "reset."
I located a remanufactured ACDelco Brake Control Module Assembly on amazon. . . GM Part #19302024 which fits my 6-channel stock ABS system on my 2000 Z28. It was more than I wanted to spend. But my wife now drives this car as much as I do and I didn't like the idea of her driving around with the brakes acting up (or, at least, no anti-lock functionality). I might send the original part in for remanufacturing with an outfit on eBay that does it for $130, then sell that part to make back some of what I just spent.
Anyways, the only disconcerting part of the whole process was figuring out how far out to pull the release lever/bar for the big plug. I figured I'd post a pic of just how far that thing needs to come out before everything is released and you can then lift the plug straight up and off. . .
Then of course there is the smaller plug going into the bottom of the unit. That came out pretty easy after I pried the retention clip/arm a bit which hold onto a nub on the unit itself. If I hadn't had the new unit there to look at, I might have been a bit more nervous bout how that one releases.
The only other tricky part was accessing the lower left (facing the unit, passenger side) T20 screw out. . . Couldn't get my ratchet in there because of the radiator hose. Didn't want to drain the radiator and remove the hose, so I eventually tried reaching down through the engine bay and actually could get the ratchet on there without an extension.
Anyways, thanks for this thread. Really helped me finally fix this situation. And I figured that second photo might help people like me who were sweating the pulling on that old/brittle plastic, and then tugging on the plug ineffectually.
11-11-2012, 10:14 AM
