TheoLoop

I searched through a bunch of threads on this but couldnt find an answer that was for my problem.

I have an abs inop light on almost constantly, the brake light goes on at times too and so will the low traction light. They all seem fairly random.
also the abs likes to kick in at random times when it's completely unnecessary.


Scanned the code and it was for the back wheel speed sensor, i got a new sensor and no luck, checked the wires and cleaned the connections and that did not help either.
right not i just disconnected the cable for the rear sensor and the abs doesnt kick on anymore and the abs inop light stays consistant.

its a 2000 camaro z28
6 speed manual
abs but no traction control

any ideas?

trans_am7935

iTrader: (15)

pull the electrical part off your ABS block and spray electrical cleaner in the barrel type connectors (you will know when you take it off). then put it back on and see if that solves the problem.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

What did you scan with to get the code? A Tech2?

TheoLoop

Not sure what it was called, it was at a local garage. I know the guy there and he let me scan it myself. It was alot bigger than a tech 2. Seemed fairly legit haha. @01ssreda4

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

Im not seeing my ABS codes using a standard scanner or HPTuners

TheoLoop

Try to find a mom and pop shop type garage and they'll scan it for you for free or cheap. No point spending 500+ on a scanner just to read a light

trans_am7935

iTrader: (15)

you can not see ABS TCS, or AIR BAG codes with an engine code or OBD II scanner of any kind. a GM Tech2 is required for the ABS type codes. i do not know what is required for the AIR BAG system codes. any good tuner will have all these codes. just give one of them a call and they will let you know which one you need. i picked up a Tech 2 a couple years back from a guy that worked at GM, i got it for 900 bucks, they sell them there for over 4K

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

^^^ Right. You could have an entirely different code now.

2000Hawk#317

iTrader: (3)

I am also having the same issue. I was told that it is the EBCM (electronic brake control module) the one located on the back side of your brake on the ABS block like trans am 7935 said. I talked to a few owners and they said they checked everything as well. They then replaced the EBCM and all the lights went away. You can find them in the parts section on here but they are pricey brand new. Hope this helps. I will be replacing mine once I return home. I will keep you informed.

trans_am7935

iTrader: (15)

yes, i had the same issue, my ABS Inop light, TCS light, and BRAKE light was all on, i cleaned all my wheel sensors, still the same problem. i replace the electronic part of the ABS module, and problem solved. no need to disconnect any brake lines. there is 4 torx screws that you take off and are good to go

z2810inch

Can you please explain this? I searched for 4 torx screws and the only accessible ones I can find are on the top for what looks like solenoids. Thank you in advance!!!

dr_whigham

iTrader: (49)

In for answers myself. Been fighting the same gremlin for the better part of a year now.

trans_am7935

iTrader: (15)

ok, so to remove the electronic part of the ABS module is 4 Torx screws and the ABS plug in module. first things first is to unplug your battery and let it sit for 10 minutes before proceeding. we dont want the ABS module to remember what you are about to do to it. then remove the plug. to remove it you pull the blue tab towards the intake lid and then pull up. next is to remove the 4 torx 20 screws and replace. read picture captions for detailed directions.

here is what the ABS module looks like in the car. this peticular module is a 4 channel ABS, but the procedure and location of the screws is the same for the 3 channel ABS. (NOTE: 3 channel and 4 channel ABS modules can not be swapped out for one another. they will not fit, nor operate correctly if the whole unit is swapped out. 4 channel ABS uses 6 lines while the 3 channel uses 5 brake lines) this picture is taken with the hood up, on the drivers side infront of the power steering pump.


here is the location of the first two screws. i use a T20 (Torx 20) size tool to remove all 4 screws. you can use the socket type but they will not fit the bottom ones. i used the "L" shaped ones, kind of like an allen wrench but with splines.


here is the location of the next two screws. use the same T20 size tool to remove these as well.


this is the ABS plug you have to remove. it can be a real bitch to get this thing off, just be patient, be sure not to break it, and take your time. when you do get it off, spray the inside of the connector with electrical connection cleaner, alot of it. it will take out all the corrosion that has built up over time that made it so hard to get off. if you live in a snow state this part is highly recommended.


for all of you that dont know what a Torx bit looks like here is a picture. this picture is just for example as the size you need to use for this project is to small to show detailed splines on camera.


here is the bit on the screw, so you know i am not lying.


now after you get the connector off, and the screws are all out DO NOT PRY IT OUT WITH A SCREWDRIVER!!!! it has really sensitive sensors in it and are poorly mounted. wiggle it a little side to side till it pops loose, then PULL IT STRAIT OUT away from the ABS unit. after you have done this, then you have 2 decisions at this point, replace it or clean it and re-install it. whichever way you go, make sure you use electrical connector cleaner on all the insides, wait for them to dry and then install them. make sure you seat the electrical part slowly and all the way before you install the screws.

hope this helps anyone who had questions, sorry i dont have pics of the inside, but i was to happy to finally get mine back together and running again. let me know if you guys need any more info.

Nemesis350

iTrader: (11)

any chance you have a staggered wheel size? like maybe bigger rear tires? That'll set off the lights (that's my problem lol)

z2810inch

WOW thanks for the awesome response!!!! Unfortunately, my car is a 1994 Z28 and the ABS block looks different. :-(

Does anyone know if this is possible on the older LT1 ABS Blocks?

dgmiller

iTrader: (1)

I had the same probelm and it turned out to be a bad connector on the cable from the rear end to the connector under the rear seat. It got stretched when I slid into several cones autocrossing and got one caught up inbetween the axle and the floor under the rear seats. Replaced that cable and then it returned after a few weeks. Removed the sensor on the top of the rear end and found an accumilation of metal filings on the sensor. Wiping the sensor off cleared the problem. Thorsens generate these as they wear. I have the shop manuals if you want to see the electrical trouble shooting steps for these.

TheoLoop

Okay so i tried that and no luck :[ looks like i might just need to buy another abs module.
I took a picture of what the inside looks like for reference
and i just took it apart with screwdriver with a t20 bit, worked fine.

dgmiller

iTrader: (1)

My son had one of these rebuilt by a place in St Louis for around $150. I can get the name if your interested

exodus_gs1

iTrader: (3)

how do you fix it? Thats my problem... I just put on some big *** tires out back and my abs and e-brake lights come on. I have not noticed any problems besides the lights

Ca_Rick

It looks like your has six screws,as does mine, not the four like what was mentioned by others.