Manual brakes hard pedal cant stop!!
#1
Manual brakes hard pedal cant stop!!
its a 1994 Camaro
bmr Manual Brake Conversion Kit which uses a strange engineering manual master
all 3an braided brake lines front to back
aerospace front drag brakes
stock disk brakes in rear
UPDATE!! i reversed the ports on the master and so far so good works great!
i bled the brakes and went back just to make sure did all 4 again. the pedal is hard but hell just putting in gear you can feel its weak and just going around the block 20 mph maybe omg i had to give it everything i had on the pedal to stop and still wasn't enough. feels like they are barely working
any suggestions or answers?
bmr Manual Brake Conversion Kit which uses a strange engineering manual master
all 3an braided brake lines front to back
aerospace front drag brakes
stock disk brakes in rear
UPDATE!! i reversed the ports on the master and so far so good works great!
i bled the brakes and went back just to make sure did all 4 again. the pedal is hard but hell just putting in gear you can feel its weak and just going around the block 20 mph maybe omg i had to give it everything i had on the pedal to stop and still wasn't enough. feels like they are barely working
any suggestions or answers?
Last edited by lordrazo; 03-17-2013 at 01:52 PM.
#2
FormerVendor
iTrader: (9)
I started marketing Strange Engineering's product line 13 years ago and have never seen a Strange manual brake conversion kit. What part # is it if You don't mind?
When converting to manual brakes the maximum bore size of the master cylinder should be 1.00", lots of variables of course but frequently 7/8" is used, what size is the one You have?
Re-read Your post and saw You have stock rear brakes, possibly an adjustable prop. valve will help but not certain...going to be of interest seeing what the fix is if You have a 1-1/16 or worse yet a 1-1/8" master cyl bore.
Carl
When converting to manual brakes the maximum bore size of the master cylinder should be 1.00", lots of variables of course but frequently 7/8" is used, what size is the one You have?
Re-read Your post and saw You have stock rear brakes, possibly an adjustable prop. valve will help but not certain...going to be of interest seeing what the fix is if You have a 1-1/16 or worse yet a 1-1/8" master cyl bore.
Carl
Last edited by Carl at CRP; 09-01-2012 at 09:18 PM.
#3
ok my bad its a bmr kit utilizing a strang eng. master here is the kit
http://www.jegs.com/p/BMR-Fabricatio...73562/10002/-1
http://www.jegs.com/p/BMR-Fabricatio...73562/10002/-1
I started marketing Strange Engineering's product line 13 years ago and have never seen a Strange manual brake conversion kit. What part # is it if You don't mind?
When converting to manual brakes the maximum bore size of the master cylinder should be 1.00", lots of variables of course but frequently 7/8" is used, what size is the one You have?
Re-read Your post and saw You have stock rear brakes, possibly an adjustable prop. valve will help but not certain...going to be of interest seeing what the fix is if You have a 1-1/16 or worse yet a 1-1/8" master cyl bore.
Carl
When converting to manual brakes the maximum bore size of the master cylinder should be 1.00", lots of variables of course but frequently 7/8" is used, what size is the one You have?
Re-read Your post and saw You have stock rear brakes, possibly an adjustable prop. valve will help but not certain...going to be of interest seeing what the fix is if You have a 1-1/16 or worse yet a 1-1/8" master cyl bore.
Carl
#5
If your master is mounted solid, I would look at your pedal ratio. A lot of times people will convert to manual brakes and use a power brake rod. Shorter rod, less leverage. Longer rod more leverage. Also look at your pivot point of your brake pedal. Try to get as much leverage as possible. Sounds like you have them bled good. Also, manual brakes take a noticeable amount of more foot to stop than power brakes. Shouldnt take everything you have to stop it though.
#6
i am using the supplied rod with this kit it requires you to drill a mounting hole 1" above the existing stock rod the pedal location which i did.i have used this same kit on a previous build without any issues
http://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=p...&productid=246 (the kit)
http://www.bmrsuspension.com/siteart/install/MBK001.pdf (instructions)
http://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=p...&productid=246 (the kit)
http://www.bmrsuspension.com/siteart/install/MBK001.pdf (instructions)
If your master is mounted solid, I would look at your pedal ratio. A lot of times people will convert to manual brakes and use a power brake rod. Shorter rod, less leverage. Longer rod more leverage. Also look at your pivot point of your brake pedal. Try to get as much leverage as possible. Sounds like you have them bled good. Also, manual brakes take a noticeable amount of more foot to stop than power brakes. Shouldnt take everything you have to stop it though.
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#11
i have the 3360 kit i double checked my rod mount location as you can see in the pic its good! so if you read the instructions (i have attached) it talks about most volume is given to the closest reservoir to the pushrod and that my kit is optimized to 4 piston rear calipers and 1 to 2 piston calipers in front but in fact my setup is reversed aerospace 4 piston in front and stock 1 piston in rear. so with that being said i know all stock mc rear is for rear brakes guess my question is would it work if i reveres my lines and re bleed using the rear reservoir for my front brakes since it creates the most volume
UPDATE!! i reversed the ports on the master and so far so good works great!
UPDATE!! i reversed the ports on the master and so far so good works great!
Last edited by lordrazo; 03-17-2013 at 01:52 PM.