Originally Posted by szalkerous

Also, that upper bolt on the bushing clamp sucks. Just plain sucks. Barely any room to get up in there, and takes forever to get out with a single click of the ratchet. I did not drop the transmission, although we did pull the tunnel brace ti allow us to wiggle around the torque arm for clearance. I had hoped once I got it loose to be able to yank the arm out of the bushing, but no dice. Had to remove the entire clamp.

Originally Posted by szalkerous

Ugh, wouldn't the correct torque, some decent threadlocker, and a careful inspection every so often be good enough?

I must admit when my 10 bolt finally lets go, I'm not excited about the setups on those 12-bolts. A few people told me to look into the Dana 60 setup, but again I heard the axle housing on that won't fit my Fays2 Watt's Link...

Couldn't you just drill the rear end housing to allow through-bolts? Admittedly, I've never seen their housing so I don't know why they're forcing you to thread to it instead of through to a nut.

I digress....

Kevin: I'm very excited to try out this BMR torque arm!!! Since I need to keep it tailshaft mounted (I want to run a true dual exhaust), should I inspect the transmission mount? I have a factory mount in there now, and will be installing poly motor mounts soon... I was told to reduce irritating vibration to leave the trans mount rubber. Should I re-up a new rubber mount just to be safe, or is there a better setup I can get my hands on that isn't a poly mount?

Originally Posted by BMR Tech2

Well, our torque arm isn't compatible with any rubber torque arm bushing, that I know of. The polyurethane is certainly going to be less susceptible to flexing, therefore it will put more stress on the tailshaft. If you're looking to run true duals, you can still use our relocation crossmember - especially if they're custom. You'll just need the exhaust shop to make it around the crossmember - it has been done before.

- Kevin

Originally Posted by leadfoot4

The rear axle housing, from the factory, has bolts that go all the way through the bosses that are cast into the rear end housing....

Originally Posted by szalkerous

Yeah I realized a few vendors have replacement bolts which are longer for aftermarket torque arms, so I ordered a set of those.

As for the bolts, there was no welds on the nuts. I ended up taking two heavy duty breaker bars (28"), finagling them onto the bolt head and nut, putting in an additional 3 feet of steel pipe, and having a friend turn one while I turned the other. This actually managed to break the bolts free after a long time of messing with getting the bars lined up with the socket while still being able to find clearance. Surprisingly, under all this twist, neither bolt broke.

Also, that upper bolt on the bushing clamp sucks. Just plain sucks. Barely any room to get up in there, and takes forever to get out with a single click of the ratchet. I did not drop the transmission, although we did pull the tunnel brace ti allow us to wiggle around the torque arm for clearance. I had hoped once I got it loose to be able to yank the arm out of the bushing, but no dice. Had to remove the entire clamp.

At least it's over with and I can get on with drilling out the factory clamshell and doing the install.

Originally Posted by lemons12

Take a longer bolt... Cut the head end off and make it however long you need to... Put it in and tighten it down (use two bolts on the end to do this of course)... take nuts off end..
Slide torque arm on and over bolt... Put nut back down and tighten on.

You no longer have to mess with that bolt, just taking the nut off, which is easy.