C5 Conversion Question - Torque Specs
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Teching In
Joined: May 2011
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C5 Conversion Question - Torque Specs What is the torque spec on the Caliper Frame to the Conversion brackets?
For a rotor change, InstallUniversity mentions 74 lb-ft of torque on the Caliper Frame bolts to the spindle.
UMI's instructions (which someone was kind enough to post), mention 125 lb-ft on the same bolts for the Caliper Frame to the conversion bracket (which is bolted on the backside of the spindle @ 63 lb-ft).
The brackets I am using are from 6LE (and do not require spindle grinding
), but there are no instructions.
74 vs 125 is a big difference - anybody know the right torque?!
For anyone else who did a C5 conversion, what did you use?
Also, is the 63 lb-ft for the four bolts to the backside of the spindle correct? - this seems reasonable...
Both write-ups agree on the guide pins @ 23 lb-ft...
Thanks all!
For a rotor change, InstallUniversity mentions 74 lb-ft of torque on the Caliper Frame bolts to the spindle.
UMI's instructions (which someone was kind enough to post), mention 125 lb-ft on the same bolts for the Caliper Frame to the conversion bracket (which is bolted on the backside of the spindle @ 63 lb-ft).
The brackets I am using are from 6LE (and do not require spindle grinding
), but there are no instructions.74 vs 125 is a big difference - anybody know the right torque?!
For anyone else who did a C5 conversion, what did you use?
Also, is the 63 lb-ft for the four bolts to the backside of the spindle correct? - this seems reasonable...
Both write-ups agree on the guide pins @ 23 lb-ft...
Thanks all!
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Update Well,
I am partway through the install of the LF - (after painting the calipers & adding chrome CAMARO stickers from Afterthoughts).
A few observations:
There is NO WAY to get torque wrench to the four hex head cap screws for the spindle that were supplied with this kit - tried a million ways & finally gave up. I finally went with metric flange bolts (same 10.9 rating as the OE ones that were removed). Still needed to use a 3/8" drive torque wrench to be able to have the room to manuever without dismantling the rest of the steering linkages, etc. but finally got 'em torqued down.
I kept the 12.9 hex head cap screws for the caliper frame to the steering knuckle that came with the kit only because the standard ones at the hardware store were longer, which would have interfered with the rotor.
I have these torqued to 74 lb-ft only, as the 3/8" drive torque wrench is only capable to 80 lb-ft. I plan to torque to 125 lb-ft (per UMI instructions) once I get the stubby hex drive sockets in so that my 1/2" drive torque wrench will fit.
Finding enough room in here to work has been a major PITA!
I believe that I have another problem though:
With the C5 conversion's increased rotor diameter, and the fact that the 6LE kit moves the caliper downward, it is looking like the brake line will not be long enough once I turn the wheel - there is barely enough length to reconnect the caliper with the wheel straight.
It looks good before I add the brake pads...
http://2002sss3726.shutterfly.com/pictures/16
...but once they are in - look at the brake line (not even over the rotor yet):
http://2002sss3726.shutterfly.com/pictures/17
I will have to ask 6LE if the F-body stainless steel lines that he sells will be long enough...
Questions for you C5 brake conversion guys:
1. Did anyone keep their OE brake lines with the C5 conversions kits?
2. What torque was used on the caliper frame to steering knuckle?
3. Anybody have the C5 OE brake line part numbers (I believe that these would be long enough, and maybe save a little $$$ over the SS lines).
I am partway through the install of the LF - (after painting the calipers & adding chrome CAMARO stickers from Afterthoughts).
A few observations:
There is NO WAY to get torque wrench to the four hex head cap screws for the spindle that were supplied with this kit - tried a million ways & finally gave up. I finally went with metric flange bolts (same 10.9 rating as the OE ones that were removed). Still needed to use a 3/8" drive torque wrench to be able to have the room to manuever without dismantling the rest of the steering linkages, etc. but finally got 'em torqued down.
I kept the 12.9 hex head cap screws for the caliper frame to the steering knuckle that came with the kit only because the standard ones at the hardware store were longer, which would have interfered with the rotor.
I have these torqued to 74 lb-ft only, as the 3/8" drive torque wrench is only capable to 80 lb-ft. I plan to torque to 125 lb-ft (per UMI instructions) once I get the stubby hex drive sockets in so that my 1/2" drive torque wrench will fit.
Finding enough room in here to work has been a major PITA!
I believe that I have another problem though:
With the C5 conversion's increased rotor diameter, and the fact that the 6LE kit moves the caliper downward, it is looking like the brake line will not be long enough once I turn the wheel - there is barely enough length to reconnect the caliper with the wheel straight.
It looks good before I add the brake pads...
http://2002sss3726.shutterfly.com/pictures/16
...but once they are in - look at the brake line (not even over the rotor yet):
http://2002sss3726.shutterfly.com/pictures/17
I will have to ask 6LE if the F-body stainless steel lines that he sells will be long enough...
Questions for you C5 brake conversion guys:
1. Did anyone keep their OE brake lines with the C5 conversions kits?
2. What torque was used on the caliper frame to steering knuckle?
3. Anybody have the C5 OE brake line part numbers (I believe that these would be long enough, and maybe save a little $$$ over the SS lines).
