shock/spring installation
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
From: Woodbridge, VA
shock/spring installation So I just ordered bilstein slp shocks and strano springs!
I also picked up urethane bumpstops.
Anything you guys recommend for the install? tips? pointers? suggestions?
And do you guys recommend anything else while I'm installing these?
I also picked up urethane bumpstops.
Anything you guys recommend for the install? tips? pointers? suggestions?
And do you guys recommend anything else while I'm installing these?
I'm doing this same job and ordered them on Sunday night from rockauto.com. I'm waiting for them to come in before the install. You will need a spring compressor too.
Be prepared for stuff breaking. I broke one of the nuts off of the shock mount on top and it had to be cut out. I have heard of people using marine grease on the top to prevent rust for the next time around.
I never had an issue with the rusty mounts, but I've heard of it a lot on here. Not sure about sway bar end links breaking, I didn't remove mine when I did my spring/shock swap.
As for the spring compressor tool, if you don't have one you can usually rent one from a parts store
As for the spring compressor tool, if you don't have one you can usually rent one from a parts store
I never had an issue with the rusty mounts, but I've heard of it a lot on here. Not sure about sway bar end links breaking, I didn't remove mine when I did my spring/shock swap.
As for the spring compressor tool, if you don't have one you can usually rent one from a parts store
As for the spring compressor tool, if you don't have one you can usually rent one from a parts store
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Edited for accuracy.
Given the age of even the newest of these cars you will need new mounts unless they had been replaced in the recent past (even then good luck getting it apart in one piece).
Don't forget the little dogbone piece that sits down inside the mount (you'll see it on top of your old ones). You might be able to reuse that as isn't much to it, but you can get new ones for like 5 bucks each so might as well do that IMO.
Given the age of even the newest of these cars you will need new mounts unless they had been replaced in the recent past (even then good luck getting it apart in one piece).
Don't forget the little dogbone piece that sits down inside the mount (you'll see it on top of your old ones). You might be able to reuse that as isn't much to it, but you can get new ones for like 5 bucks each so might as well do that IMO.
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Question about the install process that might help out the OP,
I installed stanos up front, i never compressed the spring to put the mount back on, is this necessary due to the spring being shorter. Ive been experencing some bad clunking noise up front on the passenger side and im wonder if theres a gap between the mount and the plastic grouve that the shock fits in.
Thanks
I installed stanos up front, i never compressed the spring to put the mount back on, is this necessary due to the spring being shorter. Ive been experencing some bad clunking noise up front on the passenger side and im wonder if theres a gap between the mount and the plastic grouve that the shock fits in.
Thanks
Definitely use the ls1howto guide.
1. The guide is good, but doesnt menetion disconnecting one swaybar end. You will probably want to do this to make things easier.
2. If swaybar endlinks are original stock, then they will probably break. Swap with a new poly set like energy suspension which will be better anyway.
3. Want to avoid all of the hassle with the rusty top bolt and using dangerous spring compressers? Bring the coilover assembly to the shop and have them swap out the spring and/or shock and have them assemble the new one for you. Cost should be cheap.
4. The torx bolt was a pain. I stripped mine and ended up cutting it off. My suggestion.. once you get the torx bolt out, swap it with the "normal" bolt from the passenger side and put the torx on the passenger side. This way you shouldnt have to mess with moving the brake master cylinder since the hex head should be easier to access.
5. I didnt need a pickle fork. I tapped the bolt connected to the upper a-arm upward to detach the spindle.
1. The guide is good, but doesnt menetion disconnecting one swaybar end. You will probably want to do this to make things easier.
2. If swaybar endlinks are original stock, then they will probably break. Swap with a new poly set like energy suspension which will be better anyway.
3. Want to avoid all of the hassle with the rusty top bolt and using dangerous spring compressers? Bring the coilover assembly to the shop and have them swap out the spring and/or shock and have them assemble the new one for you. Cost should be cheap.
4. The torx bolt was a pain. I stripped mine and ended up cutting it off. My suggestion.. once you get the torx bolt out, swap it with the "normal" bolt from the passenger side and put the torx on the passenger side. This way you shouldnt have to mess with moving the brake master cylinder since the hex head should be easier to access.
5. I didnt need a pickle fork. I tapped the bolt connected to the upper a-arm upward to detach the spindle.
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 6,216
Likes: 236
From: Wichita KS / Rancho San Diego
I've done the job at least five times and have never removed the end links.
One thing to be be mindful of is the orientation of the the lower shock mount to the upper one on the original shock so you can set it up the same way on the new one.
One thing to be be mindful of is the orientation of the the lower shock mount to the upper one on the original shock so you can set it up the same way on the new one.
Teching In
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
From: E. Norriton, PA
RevGTO:
I saw a similar comment in the factory shop manual to yours about marking the orientation of the lower mount with respect to the upper mount. Since I'm planning to replace my shocks this weekend, would you mind explaining how you would go about doing this?
I saw a similar comment in the factory shop manual to yours about marking the orientation of the lower mount with respect to the upper mount. Since I'm planning to replace my shocks this weekend, would you mind explaining how you would go about doing this?
The way I ended up doing it was leaving the spring compressors on the spring with them only partially relaxed so I could still spin the shock. Then I bolted the upper mount in place with a couple of the bolts (hand tight is fine, just needs to stay put), spun the shock to line it up, then released the compressors enough for the spring to hold it all in position. Then I pulled the assembly back out of the car, finished removing the compressors, and then installed the assembly fully.
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 6,216
Likes: 236
From: Wichita KS / Rancho San Diego
I have use of a wall-mount compressor so SparkyJJO's method wouldn't work with that. I just make sure to look at how the shock assembly lines up when I pull it out of the car, and make sure the new shock lines up the same way.
I so wish I had a wall-mount compressor to use. Doing it by hand is so tiring. Especially after I had to do it several times to get it right when I did it the first time on the driver side 
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 6,216
Likes: 236
From: Wichita KS / Rancho San Diego
Yep, if I didn't have access to one at my buddy's shop, I'd do this and gladly pay for it. Definitely worth it.
