Front Lower Control Arms or Bushings
03-22-2013, 01:32 PM
#21
I still have the same rod-ends that came with UMI lower A-arms years ago, and I DD my car.
More road noise does get transmitted through the chassis, but it's not bad at all. The biggest noise issue I see is that some people don't make sure the jam nuts are tightened enough, and I always put loctite(liquid) on the threads directly behind the jam nuts to help keep them tight. And spray them with some UMI Super Lube Syn. Lube #3009 every couple of months.
BTW, rod-ends in the front A-arms no where near as loud as in the rear LCAs.
More road noise does get transmitted through the chassis, but it's not bad at all. The biggest noise issue I see is that some people don't make sure the jam nuts are tightened enough, and I always put loctite(liquid) on the threads directly behind the jam nuts to help keep them tight. And spray them with some UMI Super Lube Syn. Lube #3009 every couple of months.
BTW, rod-ends in the front A-arms no where near as loud as in the rear LCAs.
Last edited by 99Bluz28; 03-22-2013 at 02:43 PM.
03-22-2013, 02:12 PM
#22
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I though aftermarket lower control arms were a lot weaker than the factory peices? Is this not the case anymore? Seems like since the cars are all over 100,000 miles everything is just falling apart and there really isn't much hope in fully restoring a car like this, at least it seems that way to me because either the aftermarket isn't strong enough, the rod ends make noise, and the gm replacement bushings are a PITA to install. So the only option is to buy a new oem piece, and do they even make those anymore?
03-22-2013, 02:56 PM
#24
I though aftermarket lower control arms were a lot weaker than the factory peices? Is this not the case anymore? Seems like since the cars are all over 100,000 miles everything is just falling apart and there really isn't much hope in fully restoring a car like this, at least it seems that way to me because either the aftermarket isn't strong enough, the rod ends make noise, and the gm replacement bushings are a PITA to install. So the only option is to buy a new oem piece, and do they even make those anymore?
My suggestion is to get a set of UMI Boxed A-arms for the just about same price. Now if you currently not lowered consider a set of BMR 1" lowering Arms. Furthermore down the road when you do need to replace the rod-ends you can very easily do it yourself.
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...roducts_id=619
http://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=p...&productid=841
Last edited by 99Bluz28; 03-22-2013 at 03:28 PM.
03-24-2013, 01:19 PM
#25
Just an FYI for future readers of this thread, I just picked up my front lower control arms from the machine shop. Total cost for all 4 bushings purchased and installed was $158. I didn't need the ball joints as they were low mileage to begin with, but figure that would have been another $100 or less depending on the balljoint.
I also could have saved $20ish ordering the parts online, but I was already there. I considered just using the money I spent on labor to buy myself a cheap HF press, but I tried pressing a bushing myself on a friends' press and destroyed it, so I just let the professionals deal with it.
So even paying someone to do it for you you're coming out a solid $200 cheaper than aftermarket arms, and they'll last a good 80k? in a daily driver (mine are at 140k and very worn, but not HORRIBLE). A heavy autox car where you're chewing up caster bushings definitely go aftermarket, but I still can't see the huge draw to these parts on a daily driver. Except for the red, red is always cool.
I also could have saved $20ish ordering the parts online, but I was already there. I considered just using the money I spent on labor to buy myself a cheap HF press, but I tried pressing a bushing myself on a friends' press and destroyed it, so I just let the professionals deal with it.
So even paying someone to do it for you you're coming out a solid $200 cheaper than aftermarket arms, and they'll last a good 80k? in a daily driver (mine are at 140k and very worn, but not HORRIBLE). A heavy autox car where you're chewing up caster bushings definitely go aftermarket, but I still can't see the huge draw to these parts on a daily driver. Except for the red, red is always cool.
03-24-2013, 02:08 PM
#26
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Just an FYI for future readers of this thread, I just picked up my front lower control arms from the machine shop. Total cost for all 4 bushings purchased and installed was $158. I didn't need the ball joints as they were low mileage to begin with, but figure that would have been another $100 or less depending on the balljoint.
I also could have saved $20ish ordering the parts online, but I was already there. I considered just using the money I spent on labor to buy myself a cheap HF press, but I tried pressing a bushing myself on a friends' press and destroyed it, so I just let the professionals deal with it.
So even paying someone to do it for you you're coming out a solid $200 cheaper than aftermarket arms, and they'll last a good 80k? in a daily driver (mine are at 140k and very worn, but not HORRIBLE). A heavy autox car where you're chewing up caster bushings definitely go aftermarket, but I still can't see the huge draw to these parts on a daily driver. Except for the red, red is always cool.
I also could have saved $20ish ordering the parts online, but I was already there. I considered just using the money I spent on labor to buy myself a cheap HF press, but I tried pressing a bushing myself on a friends' press and destroyed it, so I just let the professionals deal with it.
So even paying someone to do it for you you're coming out a solid $200 cheaper than aftermarket arms, and they'll last a good 80k? in a daily driver (mine are at 140k and very worn, but not HORRIBLE). A heavy autox car where you're chewing up caster bushings definitely go aftermarket, but I still can't see the huge draw to these parts on a daily driver. Except for the red, red is always cool.
How exactly will the bushings help your car? Exactly what bushings did you replace? I think I need to get mine replaced...
03-24-2013, 11:04 PM
#27
for this reason...
it likes to wander at highway speeds and squirms when I brake hard
03-24-2013, 11:55 PM
#28
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Well I just bought an entire new front suspension out of a camaro that had 77,000 miles on it at the good guys auto show swap meet. So well see how good of condition those control arms are in. I only paid 225 for everything and I needed some of the parts like the ls1 spindles and brakes for my lt1 car as well as the ls1 steering rack etc.
So lets get a vote going in here.'
Stock oem from lower control arms with 77,000 miles vs. UMI boxed double roto joint front lower control arms.
I will be using this car for autox with global west upper control arms and koni/strano springs and shocks. So what is my best option? I don't know anymore. Previously I was told that oem lower control arms were superior to any aftermarket ones, but are they still good with high miles on them? And can the oem ones take the abuse of an aggressive wheel alignment with wide tires 17 x 11's on all 4 corners.
So lets get a vote going in here.'
Stock oem from lower control arms with 77,000 miles vs. UMI boxed double roto joint front lower control arms.
I will be using this car for autox with global west upper control arms and koni/strano springs and shocks. So what is my best option? I don't know anymore. Previously I was told that oem lower control arms were superior to any aftermarket ones, but are they still good with high miles on them? And can the oem ones take the abuse of an aggressive wheel alignment with wide tires 17 x 11's on all 4 corners.
03-24-2013, 11:59 PM
#29
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Update: my son and I purchased the used set of arms referenced earlier in the thread. They came with new moog ball joints and poly bushings. They were a pain to remove and install since the bolts were frozen in the bushings. Got it done with some patience, heat, pb blaster and an air hammer. Car handles nice and tight now.
03-25-2013, 02:15 AM
#30
just keep an eye on the rear bushing with the poly...
I know those pics pop up a lot ^^^ and the bushings may have been redesigned (I think they have) since then, but still something to look at. Since this thread is going everywhere, do people have increased noise/vibration/harshness with poly in stock arms? any squeaking or bind over time? I ordered a set and then ended up cancelling my order because I realized there's no way to grease them once installed without completely removing the arm
I know those pics pop up a lot ^^^ and the bushings may have been redesigned (I think they have) since then, but still something to look at. Since this thread is going everywhere, do people have increased noise/vibration/harshness with poly in stock arms? any squeaking or bind over time? I ordered a set and then ended up cancelling my order because I realized there's no way to grease them once installed without completely removing the arm
03-25-2013, 09:40 AM
#31
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Update: my son and I purchased the used set of arms referenced earlier in the thread. They came with new moog ball joints and poly bushings. They were a pain to remove and install since the bolts were frozen in the bushings. Got it done with some patience, heat, pb blaster and an air hammer. Car handles nice and tight now.
03-25-2013, 11:27 AM
#32
Scary pics! That bushing location is designed to be very flexible, which is why the factory arms uses a rubber bushing in that location. Depending on durometer and design, the polyurethane bushing may not provide the proper amount of motion and it will displace the stress into the metal on the part or fail the bushing. This is why you see our - and most other - aftermarket A-arms utilize a rod-end with spacers in this location. Full range of motion and an increase in articulation without binding.
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