DrBlockHed

Doing my first pad and rotor swap this weekend, ive read and watched a few different install guides. I have 2 questions

1) what type of threadlocker? Guy at Pontiac told me dont use red, go with Blue (i have loctite). Whats best to use?

2) what type of grease fo4 the guide pins? I read a few different types, thoughts?

Thanks, im pretty sure i can handle it but want to make sure its done right.

Also, do you guys typically just reuse the bolts? I called GM they gave me some ridiculous price for bolts for all 4 sides (like $270).

z28bryan

iTrader: (7)

1. I didn't see any differences personally. I've done with red, with blue, and without threadlocker. Maybe without isn't a good idea though. Recently I went with blue because it sounds like it holds up better at higher heats.

2. I used the small jar of CRC synthetic brake caliper grease. Small black and white jar and the grease is a dark grey/black color.

sscamaroburn02

iTrader: (14)

I always reuse my bolts and no issues. I've used the blue loctite before with good results. Very easy job and don't let your calipers hang on the brake line either.

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

Before you get too far, did you adjust the parking brake for your new rotors, while you had the brakes on?

My car came from the factory with red locktite on the bolts that hold the caliper to the bracket. The bolts that hold the bracket to the car are torqued and don't need locktite.

The GM Factory service manual advises to replace the bracket to car bolts each time. There have been some other threads on this and we haven't gotten to the bottom of why. They are NOT torque to yield, so no worries there. I don't recall seeing anyone have any problems re-using the bolts and I have done the same. As long as you have a torque wrench, you should be good.

My personal speculation on the bolt replacement is one of two things:
- The GM Manuals have a typo carried over from earlier models that did have torque to yield bolts in there.
- Reusing the bolts scrapes the protective black oxide coating off of the threads.

1 FMF

iTrader: (1)

1) yeah you don't need new bolts. and you don't "need" threadlocker either provided you torque the bolts to spec. same principle applies like when you torque rod bolts or crank main bearing caps where those threads are lubricated, you get the bolt torqued correctly which stretches them and prevents them from loosening. I've used anti-seize on them over the years with no problem, and if you do that you need to reduce the torque spec around 20%-30% otherwise you will over torque them and possibly snap them. but either way don't worry, if they were to ever come loose you will get some clucking at that wheel when you apply the brakes, i happened to forget the right front on my altima once rushing to do the brakes and only hand tightened the two bolts holding the bracket to the control arm. drove that way for a few days before tightening them.

2) for the guide pins you want brake compatible grease, either the crc that was mentioned or the permatex with a green label. those are small jars and will last a lifetime for you. if you don't want that much then get the little single use packets of brake caliper pin grease. there are two types, silicone and pao oil based greases. I think the oem was silicone, if you have a 98-02 f-body. you can use either, just clean the previous stuff out before applying the new stuff. i personally think the pao oil/grease works better such as the permatex or crc grease.