Can I cut small notch in Torque arm to clear exhaust in near stock M6 TA?
#1
Can I cut small notch in Torque arm to clear exhaust in near stock M6 TA?
The bar that goes from the diff to the rear of the trans parallel to the drive shaft (I believe this is the torque arm) is hitting my welded on exhaust slightly. I'd like to cut a 1/2 inch notch in it just enough to clear the pipe maybe 1/3 of the way back, shaped like a semicircle so my exhaust won't hit, say 2-3" long. Is this a big no no? How about if I have someone weld reinforcement? Car is mostly street driven stock with some occasional track use.
#3
How about if I BFH it? It doesn't need much actually, it's just rubbing/bumping pretty much, I bet banging down that lip would do it. I'm not pulling off that exhaust, it's welded on and that would be a nightmare, so the alternative would be to live with the rattle.
Anyone have an idea of what the real risk is? Anyone have one bend or break? I still have stock diff and will never have stickies on it.
Anyone have an idea of what the real risk is? Anyone have one bend or break? I still have stock diff and will never have stickies on it.
#5
Yep, all stock just LT's with 3" exhaust that's welded on all the way back past the point of knocking, stock TQ arm, stock M6, stock rear, street tires, minor mods so near stock HP. Possibility of doing a mild cheater cam or something at MOST down the road.
Just searching around this site and others, seems like even in the RARE chance that it broke at the point of my notch it'd still keep the diff somewhat straight and just bang the hell out of stuff, right? Not a life-threatening event, right?
Just searching around this site and others, seems like even in the RARE chance that it broke at the point of my notch it'd still keep the diff somewhat straight and just bang the hell out of stuff, right? Not a life-threatening event, right?
Last edited by mk3cn4; 02-10-2013 at 09:08 PM.
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Yep, all stock just LT's with 3" exhaust that's welded on all the way back past the point of knocking, stock TQ arm, stock M6, stock rear, street tires, minor mods so near stock HP. Possibility of doing a mild cheater cam or something at MOST down the road.
Just searching around this site and others, seems like even in the RARE chance that it broke at the point of my notch it'd still keep the diff somewhat straight and just bang the hell out of stuff, right? Not a life-threatening event, right?
Just searching around this site and others, seems like even in the RARE chance that it broke at the point of my notch it'd still keep the diff somewhat straight and just bang the hell out of stuff, right? Not a life-threatening event, right?
Personally... I wouldn't touch the TA... Notch the exhaust or BFH the exhaust tubing, not a critical part of the suspension of the car.
Last edited by 97FormulaWS-6; 02-12-2013 at 08:06 AM.
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#8
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I'm going to go with ^^ this guy. I would never cut on a critical suspension piece for exhaust clearance. When torque arms fail it can be ugly, don't assist in it happening!
#10
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NO. haha The reason I say no is because you should always approach fabrication/modifications with this in mind. "What's more expensive, what's harder to replace, what's more important."
Exhaust is cheap, metal, and has no other important function other than evacuating spend gases away from the motor and out the back. The torque arm, on the other hand, performs a vital role in the function and performance of the car just rolling down the road. It's expensive, and shouldn't be altered.
So, with that in mind and using my rule of thumb, the obvious choice is to not modify the torque arm. Just find a shop that can do it for you. Shouldn't cost more than $50 or $75 to work a small section.
- Kevin
Exhaust is cheap, metal, and has no other important function other than evacuating spend gases away from the motor and out the back. The torque arm, on the other hand, performs a vital role in the function and performance of the car just rolling down the road. It's expensive, and shouldn't be altered.
So, with that in mind and using my rule of thumb, the obvious choice is to not modify the torque arm. Just find a shop that can do it for you. Shouldn't cost more than $50 or $75 to work a small section.
- Kevin
#11
Good logic, probably good advice.
Maybe I'll look for a way to squish the pipe somewhat oval shaped, not sure how I'll do that while it's still welded to the header like that lol.. jaws of life would be handy right now.
I can't BFH the pipe obviously, no room... prolly even if I took the torque arm off still not a lot of room to swing it.
Will keep thinking about it but yea I think I'll focus on getting the pipe out of the way of the torque arm instead of other way around. The posts above all make sense.
Maybe I'll look for a way to squish the pipe somewhat oval shaped, not sure how I'll do that while it's still welded to the header like that lol.. jaws of life would be handy right now.
I can't BFH the pipe obviously, no room... prolly even if I took the torque arm off still not a lot of room to swing it.
Will keep thinking about it but yea I think I'll focus on getting the pipe out of the way of the torque arm instead of other way around. The posts above all make sense.
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Don't let these couch queens tell you what you can and can't do. I'm KNOWN around here for my notched torque arm true duals. The ground clearance was awesome and I never had a failure. IF you notch you will need to re-brace by welding appropriately. No big deal for a competent welder. I don't have a ton of pics but may be able to dig a couple up.
#14
Don't let these couch queens tell you what you can and can't do. I'm KNOWN around here for my notched torque arm true duals. The ground clearance was awesome and I never had a failure. IF you notch you will need to re-brace by welding appropriately. No big deal for a competent welder. I don't have a ton of pics but may be able to dig a couple up.
#16
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Don't let these couch queens tell you what you can and can't do. I'm KNOWN around here for my notched torque arm true duals. The ground clearance was awesome and I never had a failure. IF you notch you will need to re-brace by welding appropriately. No big deal for a competent welder. I don't have a ton of pics but may be able to dig a couple up.
It can be done, but I would DEFINITELY go overboard on the re-inforcement. n fact, if you think the patch and re-inforcement is "good enough", take it one step further and go a little bigger/stronger.
Then, make sure what you did doesn't rust and weaken the notched out portion.
#18
Kleeborp the Moderator™
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Good logic, probably good advice.
Maybe I'll look for a way to squish the pipe somewhat oval shaped, not sure how I'll do that while it's still welded to the header like that lol.. jaws of life would be handy right now.
I can't BFH the pipe obviously, no room... prolly even if I took the torque arm off still not a lot of room to swing it.
Will keep thinking about it but yea I think I'll focus on getting the pipe out of the way of the torque arm instead of other way around. The posts above all make sense.
Maybe I'll look for a way to squish the pipe somewhat oval shaped, not sure how I'll do that while it's still welded to the header like that lol.. jaws of life would be handy right now.
I can't BFH the pipe obviously, no room... prolly even if I took the torque arm off still not a lot of room to swing it.
Will keep thinking about it but yea I think I'll focus on getting the pipe out of the way of the torque arm instead of other way around. The posts above all make sense.