Suspension & Brakes Springs | Shocks | Handling | Rotors

changing front springs, quick question.

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Old Mar 4, 2013 | 06:25 PM
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Default changing front springs, quick question.

I'm trying to get to the t50 bolt on driver side under the master cylinder. I've got the master cylinder loose but still can't get to the bolt. Suggestions??
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Old Mar 4, 2013 | 06:43 PM
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Put a jack under the A-Arm lifting it maybe a hair and maybe some WD40?
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Old Mar 4, 2013 | 06:58 PM
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The bolt is under the master cylinder, thats the only way to get it loose. I don't understand how thats will help me to get it loose??
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Old Mar 4, 2013 | 07:05 PM
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If the tension on the bolt underneath attached to the hat is being a pain is all. Maybe a bigger ratchet like a breaker bar?
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Old Mar 4, 2013 | 07:13 PM
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The master break cylinder is in the engine bay, the bolt is underneath it. You have to get that bolt out so that the hat will be loose and remove the spring/shock assembly..

That t50 bolt is what I can't get to. The cylinder is loose but still won't move far enough to get anything to it. How do most of you guys get it out??
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Old Mar 4, 2013 | 07:18 PM
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Ahh, my bad, thought you were able to get on it and it wasn't coming loose. It a pain but it took some finesse to get it on there, thought I was going to break the master cylinder.

Came across this browsing around
Originally Posted by bayer-z28
Easiest way to get the master out of the way is to loosen the two 10mm nuts that hold the ABS unit to its bracket, then loosen the master, lift the ABS unit off its bracket and slide the whole assembly out of the way to get to the T50 bolts.
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Old Mar 4, 2013 | 07:39 PM
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Loosen the 2 ABS block side bolts/nuts, remove the 2 plastic hardline clamps, then unplug the brake MC sensor, finally carefully pull outward on the brake MC and move it up above the cowl. Yeah it will very slightly bend the 2 hard lines, but it won't cause any other issues. FYI, before reinstalling the brake MC swap the torx head bolt with a with one with a regular six point head.
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Old Mar 4, 2013 | 08:08 PM
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Originally Posted by 99Bluz28
Loosen the 2 ABS block side bolts/nuts, remove the 2 plastic hardline clamps, then unplug the brake MC sensor, finally carefully pull outward on the brake MC and move it up above the cowl. Yeah it will very slightly bend the 2 hard lines, but it won't cause any other issues. FYI, before reinstalling the brake MC swap the torx head bolt with a with one with a regular six point head.
Already got the other one in my truck to take to hardware store tomorrow, that thing has been a pain in my ***.
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Old Mar 4, 2013 | 09:13 PM
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Ok, I got both sides out, thanks for the info guys. One more quick question though.. Is there a "good" way of aligning the front end back up decently so that maybe my tires won't get to badly ate up on the way to the alignment shop??

Last edited by JustAFooL; Mar 5, 2013 at 05:42 AM.
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Old Mar 5, 2013 | 08:50 AM
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Originally Posted by JustAFooL
Ok, I got both sides out, thanks for the info guys. One more quick question though.. Is there a "good" way of aligning the front end back up decently so that maybe my tires won't get to badly ate up on the way to the alignment shop??
Driving to the alignment shop after you have changed to lowering springs in the front won't be a big deal at all. Just don't drive without getting an alignment for a extended period of time you shouldn't have to worry about having any additional wear on the tires.
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Old Mar 5, 2013 | 03:16 PM
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Originally Posted by BMR Sales2
Driving to the alignment shop after you have changed to lowering springs in the front won't be a big deal at all. Just don't drive without getting an alignment for a extended period of time you shouldn't have to worry about having any additional wear on the tires.
Thanks for the reply.. I went with your springs so its only suiting.
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Old Mar 7, 2013 | 06:10 PM
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I used a short T50 bit and a wrench to R&R that bolt.didn't remove or loosen the master cylinder.
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Old Mar 8, 2013 | 08:25 AM
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Originally Posted by JustAFooL
Thanks for the reply.. I went with your springs so its only suiting.
Not a problem, we appreciate you using BMR Suspension for your lowering needs. If there is anything else we can help you out with let us know.

Kyle
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Old Mar 12, 2013 | 12:04 PM
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I removed the master completely. Left the lines tight and connected and it had enough give to pull away from the booster and toward the engine.
Plenty of room. Just have to persuade it
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