help fading brakes on a 99 Z
#21
I am not trying to pick an e-fight man. I autocross tons of different cars and the Fbody is by far one of the worst stock braking cars I have ever driven. It really provides no feel or confidence at all lol. I really want to do the cts-v upgrade on mine soo much.
#22
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Now I'm doing the search and seek thing for rotors and pads.I'll sure that I'll find what I need/want I'm just on a bit of a budget right now.
Thanks again to everyone for all the great input I do really appreciate it
Thanks again to everyone for all the great input I do really appreciate it
#24
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Although this isn't the total cause for the OP's issue, but since the stock rear has c-clips, you can experience pad knock back which can cause the feeling of the brakes not biting right away with moderate pedal feel.
I'm really suprised the flush didn't help. If there was a leak, you would notice your fluid levels low. I really don't have a recomendation for this. Even if the ABS module was bad, you would still have fairly good pedal response even without power brakes.
I'm pretty stumped.
I'm really suprised the flush didn't help. If there was a leak, you would notice your fluid levels low. I really don't have a recomendation for this. Even if the ABS module was bad, you would still have fairly good pedal response even without power brakes.
I'm pretty stumped.
#25
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Basically a decent set of rotors and something like HPS Hawk pads, regular brake maintenance, clean regrease caliper pins, keep the clips and boots fresh on the pins, and the stock calipers can do wonders. I think where the stock system's performance starts to drop off is when you get into higher speed racing and the stock system heats up too much and fades. Also the stock calipers can begin to spread.. I'm noticing spread in mine now after 10 years by examining wear marks on my new right front new.
Again not trying to start $h*t.. but offering a different opinion for the ls1tech community.
Also if it helps, there's plenty of championships in SCCA autox nationals where the drivers were on the stock brake caliper setup
#28
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Hawk 'road track' pads are very dusty but work well. DOT 5 fluid. Bigger slotted rotors & something like 4 pot wilwood calipers.
You will never experience brake fade again
You will never experience brake fade again
#29
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Not trying to pick and e-fight either.. but I do have to disagree. I've autoxed many different cars before as well for about 10 years now. You can definitely make the stock brakes work very well for autox. Not trying to insult you with this comment, but are you sure you didn't have any issues with your brake system?
Basically a decent set of rotors and something like HPS Hawk pads, regular brake maintenance, clean regrease caliper pins, keep the clips and boots fresh on the pins, and the stock calipers can do wonders. I think where the stock system's performance starts to drop off is when you get into higher speed racing and the stock system heats up too much and fades. Also the stock calipers can begin to spread.. I'm noticing spread in mine now after 10 years by examining wear marks on my new right front new.
Again not trying to start $h*t.. but offering a different opinion for the ls1tech community.
Also if it helps, there's plenty of championships in SCCA autox nationals where the drivers were on the stock brake caliper setup
Basically a decent set of rotors and something like HPS Hawk pads, regular brake maintenance, clean regrease caliper pins, keep the clips and boots fresh on the pins, and the stock calipers can do wonders. I think where the stock system's performance starts to drop off is when you get into higher speed racing and the stock system heats up too much and fades. Also the stock calipers can begin to spread.. I'm noticing spread in mine now after 10 years by examining wear marks on my new right front new.
Again not trying to start $h*t.. but offering a different opinion for the ls1tech community.
Also if it helps, there's plenty of championships in SCCA autox nationals where the drivers were on the stock brake caliper setup
I have to agree with this. With a good set of pads and a really good bleed down, there should be no issue on a street car, and even auto x ones.
#30
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Don't second guess with someone elses comments.
If you have no experience of road racing etc.
No doubt auto x doesn't get the brakes as hot as road racing, but OP if you want the problem fixed successfully first time with no ifs & buts my earlier comment stands. Do it once, Do it right.
I can pull up from 143mph in a full weight car at the 590ft mark into a 30mph hair pin with other braked corners on the circuit for a 6 lap race & NO BRAKE FADE
Last edited by ls1 1990 VN; 03-28-2013 at 01:05 AM.
#31
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HP+ = Great bite, less fade on continued street use, high dust, some noise
I've used both, including Hawk's DTC line. For your use, HPS will probably be fine.
#32
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I feel confident that I have a good bleed down now.I guess the way that I was bleeding in the past was'nt good enough or the proper way to do the job for my camaro.
I drove the camaro all day Friday and put 45 miles on it does seem to stop somewhat better but there is much room for improvement. At least I can drive it in town without worrying about crashing but I'm still careful.
I still can't lock the brakes or trigger the abs on dry pavement coming down from 50 mph.
I scanned the abs no codes I drove with scanner attached and all wheel speed sensors read normal.
We'll see what happens with pads and rotors
Thanks again
I drove the camaro all day Friday and put 45 miles on it does seem to stop somewhat better but there is much room for improvement. At least I can drive it in town without worrying about crashing but I'm still careful.
I still can't lock the brakes or trigger the abs on dry pavement coming down from 50 mph.
I scanned the abs no codes I drove with scanner attached and all wheel speed sensors read normal.
We'll see what happens with pads and rotors
Thanks again
#33
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Hawk HPS work pretty well, but they WILL fade. HP-Plus work better, but make some noise and throw out a lot of dust. I've found StopTech Street Performance pads to be a much better pad than both. They offer the stopping power of a HP-Plus, almost non-existent fade, no noise, and lower dust. Just my $.02.
- Kevin
- Kevin
#34
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op after every thing you have tried with no results makes me think your rotors are glazed up. Try to sand blast them and put them back on your car. I have seen this work several times. New pads or bleeding will not work at all on glazed rotors.
These cars have very good brakes with just a couple upgrades. The 1st one should be stainless braided lines. I like Performance Friction pads. Bear eradispeds with the aluminum hat is a great upgrade also.
These cars have very good brakes with just a couple upgrades. The 1st one should be stainless braided lines. I like Performance Friction pads. Bear eradispeds with the aluminum hat is a great upgrade also.
#35
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The glazed rotors could be a problem because of the severe fading I would always be on the brake with full pressure trying to stop.
I still haven't got pads and rotors yet life's been getting in the way
Thanks
I still haven't got pads and rotors yet life's been getting in the way
Thanks
#37
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#38
I still feel the same way, I guess driving styles differ. But I can tell you trying to stop a stock braked F-body from 100mph is straight up SCARY and have no idea what is going on, no feel at all.
But no worries. I hope teh OP gets the issue worked out.
But no worries. I hope teh OP gets the issue worked out.