help fading brakes on a 99 Z
#42
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I guarantee you will feel 100% confident in my car from a 100mph stop. I've got stock brakes, the basic maintenance, ATE fluid, stainless lines, Hawk DTC 30 pads up front, HPS rears, ATE rotors up front, Brembo blanks in the back.
If you don't feel 100% confident, I will shave my head
If you don't feel 100% confident, I will shave my head
#43
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Why you gotta go there HioSS?? You cant just be satisfied that my brake preference is not biased towards the F-body?
I have owned over 7 of them, I feel like they all suck, from 10k-115k mile cars regardless of maintenance. I take exceptional care of my cars and have owned many track cars.
I have also owned several Vettes, C4's and C5's, the C5 Z06 stock brakes behind the 700rwhp motor I had last were leaps and bounds better than any Fbody I have ever been in.
I would consider myself an extremely knowledgeable driver and autocross frequently and have had a couple dedicated AutoX cars. So me not "knowing how to use brakes" ( Effing stupid BTW) is not even something to be discussed.
Yes they will stop, but I do not like the way they do. End of story...damn..I cant have my opinion now?
I have owned over 7 of them, I feel like they all suck, from 10k-115k mile cars regardless of maintenance. I take exceptional care of my cars and have owned many track cars.
I have also owned several Vettes, C4's and C5's, the C5 Z06 stock brakes behind the 700rwhp motor I had last were leaps and bounds better than any Fbody I have ever been in.
I would consider myself an extremely knowledgeable driver and autocross frequently and have had a couple dedicated AutoX cars. So me not "knowing how to use brakes" ( Effing stupid BTW) is not even something to be discussed.
Yes they will stop, but I do not like the way they do. End of story...damn..I cant have my opinion now?
#44
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There are lots of people that autoX and do track days. Alot of them should not even be driving at all. Just because you do it does not mean your good at it. Op is having a issue with his brakes. For you to get on here and say f-body brakes suck is well....effing stupid and completely false.
Why would even compare them to corvette brakes?? Bigger brakes and a lighter car will stop better there rocket scientist.
Why would even compare them to corvette brakes?? Bigger brakes and a lighter car will stop better there rocket scientist.
#47
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Update, I got my hawks and ate blanks and all I can say is the difference is night and day.
Thanks to all who chimed in and gave there opinions to help me out
I am greatfull.
This is a great forum with lot's of knowledgeable people
Again thanks to everyone I really appreciated the input.
I hope I can return the favor at some point.
Thanks to all who chimed in and gave there opinions to help me out
I am greatfull.
This is a great forum with lot's of knowledgeable people
Again thanks to everyone I really appreciated the input.
I hope I can return the favor at some point.
#48
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Good job Black. A little maintenance goes a long way.
I'll give ya a tip to keep the rotors from glazing again. When you stop from high speeds stop like you mean it. No ***** footin on the brake pedal. The brakes will last much better. When I go to the track I don't even think about braking till after the first turn around.....and I trap over 130mph and will do back to back several times over.
I'll give ya a tip to keep the rotors from glazing again. When you stop from high speeds stop like you mean it. No ***** footin on the brake pedal. The brakes will last much better. When I go to the track I don't even think about braking till after the first turn around.....and I trap over 130mph and will do back to back several times over.
#49
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Update, I got my hawks and ate blanks and all I can say is the difference is night and day.
Thanks to all who chimed in and gave there opinions to help me out
I am greatfull.
This is a great forum with lot's of knowledgeable people
Again thanks to everyone I really appreciated the input.
I hope I can return the favor at some point.
Thanks to all who chimed in and gave there opinions to help me out
I am greatfull.
This is a great forum with lot's of knowledgeable people
Again thanks to everyone I really appreciated the input.
I hope I can return the favor at some point.
#52
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Stock brakes basically not all that good. I hated the stock gm pads.It's amazing the difference between a good set of pads and rotors and the stock stuff.I have baer eradispeed rotors and hawk hps pads and the difference is night and day.There are other good quality rotors besides baers that are not so pricey. ATE are great for the money.
#53
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THe ***** I am talking about is the HORRIBLE factory brakes these cars have. They are god awful. One hard stop and they are going to fade from there on out.
Way too little braking power for the weight and power these cars make.
Most of us like to push the car from time to time, these brakes will NOT allow it.
Way too little braking power for the weight and power these cars make.
Most of us like to push the car from time to time, these brakes will NOT allow it.
Dangerously underpowered? WTF are you talking about? They are more than adequate for DD. The OP isn't doing 130MPH runs.
You should be able to kick in ABS on dry pavement. I agree with the idea there is air in the line, and/or old fluid. I've never experienced brake fade unless I was running on a track over and over.
You should be able to kick in ABS on dry pavement. I agree with the idea there is air in the line, and/or old fluid. I've never experienced brake fade unless I was running on a track over and over.
And it seemed like slotted rotors and ceramic pads made it worse. Felt fine at first, but there's something about that pad/rotor combo that doesn't jive. What's the operating temp of a ceramic pad? pretty hot, IIRC. I had to do a brake stab a couple times at well over 100 (Track and "closed course roll racing") and the brakes just weren't there. And god forbid if I had 6 pistons V calipers ONLY on the front..
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OP, i'd look into a set of EBC rotors, and the matching green or yellow pads. Red is for race and have a higher operating temp which a couple DD stops won't really cut it. or look at some Baer or Wilwood rotors all around. Maybe the C5 brake setup. Don't bother with stamped, dimpled, drilled or slotted generic rotors.
We're limited to the backs because we have a floating caliper in the rear. A significant upgrade would involve a fixed rear caliper, which would require a non-Cclip axle setup = different rear.
Last edited by bayer-z28; 04-12-2013 at 05:42 PM.
#54
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If you absolutely jam on the brakes on this car to like stop in the stop box of an autox course, you will sometimes get the ABS into "ice mode". That's when the pedal goes really hard and doesn't stop that well.
Once I stopped jamming on the pedal and just squeezing it really hard (typical braking fundamental in racing), I've stopped running into that problem.
When working properly, the stock caliper system works awesome for non hardcore racing event types. It's not always easy to get it working properly though.
Once I stopped jamming on the pedal and just squeezing it really hard (typical braking fundamental in racing), I've stopped running into that problem.
When working properly, the stock caliper system works awesome for non hardcore racing event types. It's not always easy to get it working properly though.
#55
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Thank you. I have HPS pads and slotted rotors, and they didn't help much. Also earl's braided lines. Had hawk ceramic pads on the car from when I bought it. Changed them 6 years after I installed them and they were hardly worn at all. -Not biting, not wearing.
For a DD yes, or borderline. I've never liked the brakes on this car. But the ABS saved my *** a couple times tho.
And it seemed like slotted rotors and ceramic pads made it worse. Felt fine at first, but there's something about that pad/rotor combo that doesn't jive. What's the operating temp of a ceramic pad? pretty hot, IIRC. I had to do a brake stab a couple times at well over 100 (Track and "closed course roll racing") and the brakes just weren't there. And god forbid if I had 6 pistons V calipers ONLY on the front..
Asking for a brake-oversteer condition, taking weight off the rear end, throwing off the brake balance. I like having a hair bit of rear bias for the brakes. My VW has it and those brakes bite HARD and the feel is a lot stronger.
OP, i'd look into a set of EBC rotors, and the matching green or yellow pads. Red is for race and have a higher operating temp which a couple DD stops won't really cut it. or look at some Baer or Wilwood rotors all around. Maybe the C5 brake setup. Don't bother with stamped, dimpled, drilled or slotted generic rotors.
The C5 setup has 1" larger front rotors. There's some differences with the caliper piston sizes too but I'm not exactly sure.
We're limited to the backs because we have a floating caliper in the rear. A significant upgrade would involve a fixed rear caliper, which would require a non-Cclip axle setup = different rear.
For a DD yes, or borderline. I've never liked the brakes on this car. But the ABS saved my *** a couple times tho.
And it seemed like slotted rotors and ceramic pads made it worse. Felt fine at first, but there's something about that pad/rotor combo that doesn't jive. What's the operating temp of a ceramic pad? pretty hot, IIRC. I had to do a brake stab a couple times at well over 100 (Track and "closed course roll racing") and the brakes just weren't there. And god forbid if I had 6 pistons V calipers ONLY on the front..
![Bomb](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_bomb.gif)
OP, i'd look into a set of EBC rotors, and the matching green or yellow pads. Red is for race and have a higher operating temp which a couple DD stops won't really cut it. or look at some Baer or Wilwood rotors all around. Maybe the C5 brake setup. Don't bother with stamped, dimpled, drilled or slotted generic rotors.
The C5 setup has 1" larger front rotors. There's some differences with the caliper piston sizes too but I'm not exactly sure.
We're limited to the backs because we have a floating caliper in the rear. A significant upgrade would involve a fixed rear caliper, which would require a non-Cclip axle setup = different rear.