1" drop
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 94
Likes: 0
1" drop I want to drop my T/A an inch. I want new shocks, springs, and a front sway bar. I don't want to spend a LOT of money, but i also understand that this isn't cheap. Any suggestions on the cheapest stuff but still won't dissapoint me handling wise? also, will i want to do any other mods to prevent body roll when cornering, or will the new front sway bar work? thanks
Option 2.
Buy Koni SA's for the front and use the lower spring perch (to drop the front) and remove the rubber isolator from above the rear springs. Upgrade your rear shocks and enjoy. If you decide to change springs later, move the koni perch up to the top (there are 2 mounting locations) and add lowering springs. That way, you already have better shocks to go with the springs, if you should ever want to change to a new set of aftermarket springs.
My thoughts.
Buy Koni SA's for the front and use the lower spring perch (to drop the front) and remove the rubber isolator from above the rear springs. Upgrade your rear shocks and enjoy. If you decide to change springs later, move the koni perch up to the top (there are 2 mounting locations) and add lowering springs. That way, you already have better shocks to go with the springs, if you should ever want to change to a new set of aftermarket springs.
My thoughts.
I'm on almost the same page as you. Here's what I did. I cut my stock springs about 1.5 coils and it lowered it about 1.5". Then I ordered a 35mm ST swaybar. Total cost with an alignment: $180.
I will eventually get better springs and shocks, but for now, it will do.
I will eventually get better springs and shocks, but for now, it will do.
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 658
Likes: 0
From: Harrisburg, PA
Option 3 (errr. I'm hesistant to post this after Trackbird though as he usually comes up with very good setups)
Hotchkis coil springs>>>>Tbyrne $219.00
Bilstein Shocks HD>>>Tbyrne $349.00
GM 1LE sway bars (opt.)>>>TSP $99.00 fr. $79.99 rear
Grand total (before shipping & handling and taxes)
746.00
Hotchkis coil springs>>>>Tbyrne $219.00
Bilstein Shocks HD>>>Tbyrne $349.00
GM 1LE sway bars (opt.)>>>TSP $99.00 fr. $79.99 rear
Grand total (before shipping & handling and taxes)
746.00
Originally Posted by PSU_Engineer
Option 3 (errr. I'm hesistant to post this after Trackbird though as he usually comes up with very good setups)
Hotchkis coil springs>>>>Tbyrne $219.00
Bilstein Shocks HD>>>Tbyrne $349.00
GM 1LE sway bars (opt.)>>>TSP $99.00 fr. $79.99 rear
Grand total (before shipping & handling and taxes)
746.00
Hotchkis coil springs>>>>Tbyrne $219.00
Bilstein Shocks HD>>>Tbyrne $349.00
GM 1LE sway bars (opt.)>>>TSP $99.00 fr. $79.99 rear
Grand total (before shipping & handling and taxes)
746.00
That will probably handle better than my suggestion. I was looking at getting the car lowered and getting very good shocks to build the rest of the setup on. But, bang for the buck, I'd say this idea is as good as any and better than most. I prefer more spring rate than the stock springs provide. But, if you don't have shocks that can handle that rate, it is a moot point. Hence the suggestion I made for performance for "cheap", just as a building block for later. If you want to do it in one shot, this is a good plan as well. The 1le bars are winners in the bang for the buck category and perform very well for street and some track use.
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From what I remember reading, the BMR springs are a little soft on spring rate to handle a lowered car (springs keep the car from bottoming and the lower you go, the more spring rate you need. The BMR are a bit light in my opinion). And, I prefer to buy springs from springs companies (Eibach, H&R, etc), they wind them on million dollar machines and heat treat and stress relieve them properly and I am confident that I will get the same quality every time. I'm not saying you have to use those brands (there are other spring companies as well), but I prefer to do so.
My thoughts.
My thoughts.
If you were to get Bilsteins, I would say to get the
SLP Bilstein fronts for any higher-rate spring (they
have more rebound damping) unless you planned to
get revalved ones that are purpose-set. The rear
ride quality w/ Bilsteins and higher spring rate will
be harsh. You might find it more comfortable to just
get the SLP Bilstein fronts and put Hotchkiss (or SLP
Eibachs) on the nose, and do the rear spacer
removal / heater hose deal and leave the back alone
otherwise. You can easily change your mind on the
rear (and of course you could do the rear swap and
go back after your first drive down rough pavement).
But if you can get just the SLP Bilstein fronts I think
that's about $150 saved, for rear shocks you may
likely end up wishing you didn't put on.
SLP Bilstein fronts for any higher-rate spring (they
have more rebound damping) unless you planned to
get revalved ones that are purpose-set. The rear
ride quality w/ Bilsteins and higher spring rate will
be harsh. You might find it more comfortable to just
get the SLP Bilstein fronts and put Hotchkiss (or SLP
Eibachs) on the nose, and do the rear spacer
removal / heater hose deal and leave the back alone
otherwise. You can easily change your mind on the
rear (and of course you could do the rear swap and
go back after your first drive down rough pavement).
But if you can get just the SLP Bilstein fronts I think
that's about $150 saved, for rear shocks you may
likely end up wishing you didn't put on.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 94
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by trackbird
From what I remember reading, the BMR springs are a little soft on spring rate to handle a lowered car (springs keep the car from bottoming and the lower you go, the more spring rate you need. The BMR are a bit light in my opinion). And, I prefer to buy springs from springs companies (Eibach, H&R, etc), they wind them on million dollar machines and heat treat and stress relieve them properly and I am confident that I will get the same quality every time. I'm not saying you have to use those brands (there are other spring companies as well), but I prefer to do so.
My thoughts.
My thoughts.
Thats a really good point. I was looking at either the eibach or bilstein, so now i pretty much will buy one or the other for sure now. I actually have a Firehawk, so will the slp shocks handle the drop? or would i still need to new shocks also
SLP Bilsteins are kitted w/ SLP Eibachs as one of
their (Level 1?) packages. Dunno if they specifically
changed valving for the drop but they are different
and presumably set up to work together @ -3/4"
and higher rate. So not much of a stretch to 1".
No complaints about the damping performance
with my Hotchkiss (even higher rate, -1") and
SLP Eibach front combo, it's very tightly damped.
Just the rear got kicked around too much w/ the
combination of higher spring rate and higher bump
damping of the Bilsteins out back. Like race car
front and ox-cart rear.
their (Level 1?) packages. Dunno if they specifically
changed valving for the drop but they are different
and presumably set up to work together @ -3/4"
and higher rate. So not much of a stretch to 1".
No complaints about the damping performance
with my Hotchkiss (even higher rate, -1") and
SLP Eibach front combo, it's very tightly damped.
Just the rear got kicked around too much w/ the
combination of higher spring rate and higher bump
damping of the Bilsteins out back. Like race car
front and ox-cart rear.
