Break Caliper Bolt questions/Need Help
Is there a torque spec these need to be torque'd to exactly?
And second, I could only find a grade 5 bolt to hold me over temporarily, short of going to a junk yard and tearing to a fbody, does anyone know where I could get grade 8 or higher bolts ? It had a 10.9 at the end of the bolt. Here is a picture of where the bolt fell out of the back of the spindle.
This is why I am going to DIY on all my work here on out, because brake shops leave this quality.
Any help would be appreciated guys . This is a 2002 z28 camaro.
Last edited by blazzin93z; Mar 22, 2013 at 07:46 PM. Reason: typo
The bracket to caliper bolts are low torque and came from the factory with thread locker on them. The one you are missing - bracket to plate is torqued only.
Good call. Even when I get warranty service on brakes/wheels, etc. or have someone else change my tires - I always check the torque of the bolts when I get home. These are all key single points of massive failure and its important to make sure they are done right.
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Another quick one, be careful not to use lock tight on a bolt that does not call for it. It will act like lube when you torque it and you will over torque the bolt
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Especially when there isn't as much room to swing a torque wrench. 
I jest but am interested to understand the technical rationale behind this point. The torque is a measurement of the elongation and stresses built up inside the bolt. If it rests and settles for a second, it may loose some of its initial torque. If you turn the wrench slowly, there should be no harm in a second click as the tool should always break at the proper torque.
Last edited by wssix99; Mar 25, 2013 at 09:45 PM.
http://www1.snapon.com/display/231/T...ueWrench08.pdf
You will find that nowhere do they say to click the wrench twice. It is a precision tool and is designed to reach torque with one click, buzz, beep or light
My first clicks don't always do it. Often, I need another 10-15 degrees before I develop the proper torque.
I'm sure proper technique is to move the torque wrench slowly so the torque builds up slowly but that takes a lot of extra time.
You were not kidding on the 10.9, hard to find that WSSIX99.
My first clicks don't always do it. Often, I need another 10-15 degrees before I develop the proper torque.
I'm sure proper technique is to move the torque wrench slowly so the torque builds up slowly but that takes a lot of extra time.
I had a bloody drill sergeant for an instructor. That man stood over us every bloody time we touched a torque wrench and all I remember from him is "That's it your done! NO!!! Do not click it again... are you guys f-in deaf in here"... followed by something getting tossed across the floor in there... LOL
For some reason, GM's factory service manual recommends replacing them every time the caliper is taken off, but I haven't seen a good reason why. (My guess its a typo carried over from future years, which may have had a different type of bolt.)
I had a bloody drill sergeant for an instructor. That man stood over us every bloody time we touched a torque wrench and all I remember from him is "That's it your done! NO!!! Do not click it again... are you guys f-in deaf in here"... followed by something getting tossed across the floor in there... LOL
<Insert a picture of me flying through the air wearing my Captain **** cape.> I'm really particular on my brake and wheel torque. I don't want one of these things to fall out!







