Break Caliper Bolt questions/Need Help
03-22-2013, 07:42 PM
#1
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Break Caliper Bolt questions/Need Help Hey guys whats going on? Well the other day I was hot rodding my z28 a little bit and I litterally lost the bolt that bolts the caliper to the spindle. It looks like it should be a Grade 8 Bolt thats 20mm and 1.5" in length. I had a couple of questions in general.
Is there a torque spec these need to be torque'd to exactly?
And second, I could only find a grade 5 bolt to hold me over temporarily, short of going to a junk yard and tearing to a fbody, does anyone know where I could get grade 8 or higher bolts ? It had a 10.9 at the end of the bolt. Here is a picture of where the bolt fell out of the back of the spindle.
This is why I am going to DIY on all my work here on out, because brake shops leave this quality.
Any help would be appreciated guys . This is a 2002 z28 camaro.
Is there a torque spec these need to be torque'd to exactly?
And second, I could only find a grade 5 bolt to hold me over temporarily, short of going to a junk yard and tearing to a fbody, does anyone know where I could get grade 8 or higher bolts ? It had a 10.9 at the end of the bolt. Here is a picture of where the bolt fell out of the back of the spindle.
This is why I am going to DIY on all my work here on out, because brake shops leave this quality.
Any help would be appreciated guys . This is a 2002 z28 camaro.
Last edited by blazzin93z; 03-22-2013 at 07:46 PM. Reason: typo
03-22-2013, 08:51 PM
#3
Yes there is a torque spec for those bolts. Dont remember what is was right off hand when i did my conversion. I am thinking it was like 75 but dont swear by it. They originally came with thread locker on them. I had to order bolts through my local hardware. I put thread locker on the new ones when i installed them.
03-23-2013, 06:33 PM
#7
Yep - towards the end of page 1 in this thread: https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspensio...f-freeway.html
The bracket to caliper bolts are low torque and came from the factory with thread locker on them. The one you are missing - bracket to plate is torqued only.
As mentioned above, its a high strength metric bolt with 10.9 stamped on the end. Its also black oxide coated, which makes it even harder to find. They are stocked by dealers, where you should be able to get a new one pretty easily. Kind of to your point on going the extra mile on these types of things - I'd only go for a GM part on this one.
Good call. Even when I get warranty service on brakes/wheels, etc. or have someone else change my tires - I always check the torque of the bolts when I get home. These are all key single points of massive failure and its important to make sure they are done right.
The bracket to caliper bolts are low torque and came from the factory with thread locker on them. The one you are missing - bracket to plate is torqued only.
And second, I could only find a grade 5 bolt to hold me over temporarily, short of going to a junk yard and tearing to a fbody, does anyone know where I could get grade 8 or higher bolts ? It had a 10.9 at the end of the bolt. Here is a picture of where the bolt fell out of the back of the spindle.
Good call. Even when I get warranty service on brakes/wheels, etc. or have someone else change my tires - I always check the torque of the bolts when I get home. These are all key single points of massive failure and its important to make sure they are done right.
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03-23-2013, 06:39 PM
#8
Thread jumping here, but when you "do it yourself", please use the torque wrench properly. It only needs to click once! I even see on TV shows where the mechanics will "double click" the torque wrench to ensure the torque I guess, but it is dead wrong. That's not the way to do it, one click... trust your tools!!
Another quick one, be careful not to use lock tight on a bolt that does not call for it. It will act like lube when you torque it and you will over torque the bolt
Another quick one, be careful not to use lock tight on a bolt that does not call for it. It will act like lube when you torque it and you will over torque the bolt
03-24-2013, 06:32 AM
#9
Thread jumping here, but when you "do it yourself", please use the torque wrench properly. It only needs to click once! I even see on TV shows where the mechanics will "double click" the torque wrench to ensure the torque I guess, but it is dead wrong. That's not the way to do it, one click... trust your tools!!
03-25-2013, 08:56 PM
#11
I've done brakes longer than I've had a torque wrench. I just make sure they're really tight. I do have a tendency to overtighten stuff, but I've never had anything come apart and I did half my suspension on my old car with nothing but a ratchet. Nothing ever came apart <knock on wood> But I have a torque wrench now and should really use it more often than I do. Old habits die hard 
Especially when there isn't as much room to swing a torque wrench.
Especially when there isn't as much room to swing a torque wrench.
03-25-2013, 09:39 PM
#12
Thread jumping here, but when you "do it yourself", please use the torque wrench properly. It only needs to click once! I even see on TV shows where the mechanics will "double click" the torque wrench to ensure the torque I guess, but it is dead wrong. That's not the way to do it, one click... trust your tools!!
I jest but am interested to understand the technical rationale behind this point. The torque is a measurement of the elongation and stresses built up inside the bolt. If it rests and settles for a second, it may loose some of its initial torque. If you turn the wrench slowly, there should be no harm in a second click as the tool should always break at the proper torque.
Last edited by wssix99; 03-25-2013 at 09:45 PM.
03-25-2013, 10:00 PM
#13
Here is a little info for you with a quick google search:
http://www1.snapon.com/display/231/T...ueWrench08.pdf
You will find that nowhere do they say to click the wrench twice. It is a precision tool and is designed to reach torque with one click, buzz, beep or light
http://www1.snapon.com/display/231/T...ueWrench08.pdf
You will find that nowhere do they say to click the wrench twice. It is a precision tool and is designed to reach torque with one click, buzz, beep or light
03-25-2013, 10:24 PM
#14
Where does it say two clicks are bad?
My first clicks don't always do it. Often, I need another 10-15 degrees before I develop the proper torque.
I'm sure proper technique is to move the torque wrench slowly so the torque builds up slowly but that takes a lot of extra time.
My first clicks don't always do it. Often, I need another 10-15 degrees before I develop the proper torque.
I'm sure proper technique is to move the torque wrench slowly so the torque builds up slowly but that takes a lot of extra time.
03-26-2013, 09:15 AM
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Guys. Thank you so much for all the replies. This forum has been bad *** for help for years. To this day never let me down. I am gonna run by chevy house today and see if I can find the bolt.
You were not kidding on the 10.9, hard to find that WSSIX99.
You were not kidding on the 10.9, hard to find that WSSIX99.
03-26-2013, 09:38 AM
#16
Where does it say two clicks are bad?
My first clicks don't always do it. Often, I need another 10-15 degrees before I develop the proper torque.
I'm sure proper technique is to move the torque wrench slowly so the torque builds up slowly but that takes a lot of extra time.
My first clicks don't always do it. Often, I need another 10-15 degrees before I develop the proper torque.
I'm sure proper technique is to move the torque wrench slowly so the torque builds up slowly but that takes a lot of extra time.
I had a bloody drill sergeant for an instructor. That man stood over us every bloody time we touched a torque wrench and all I remember from him is "That's it your done! NO!!! Do not click it again... are you guys f-in deaf in here"... followed by something getting tossed across the floor in there... LOL
03-26-2013, 11:59 AM
#17
Fortunately, GM dealers have them in stock or should be able to get them in 1 day. In addition to the size being hard to find, I think the fronts have a flange head and the rears are regular. On top of that, they are black oxide coated.
For some reason, GM's factory service manual recommends replacing them every time the caliper is taken off, but I haven't seen a good reason why. (My guess its a typo carried over from future years, which may have had a different type of bolt.)
Yea, its probably sound advice but not all gloom and doom. If my second click comes without any rotation, I always loosen the nut and re-torque in case my first fast click overtightened.
<Insert a picture of me flying through the air wearing my Captain **** cape.> I'm really particular on my brake and wheel torque. I don't want one of these things to fall out!
For some reason, GM's factory service manual recommends replacing them every time the caliper is taken off, but I haven't seen a good reason why. (My guess its a typo carried over from future years, which may have had a different type of bolt.)
hahahaha... I hear ya man
I had a bloody drill sergeant for an instructor. That man stood over us every bloody time we touched a torque wrench and all I remember from him is "That's it your done! NO!!! Do not click it again... are you guys f-in deaf in here"... followed by something getting tossed across the floor in there... LOL
I had a bloody drill sergeant for an instructor. That man stood over us every bloody time we touched a torque wrench and all I remember from him is "That's it your done! NO!!! Do not click it again... are you guys f-in deaf in here"... followed by something getting tossed across the floor in there... LOL
<Insert a picture of me flying through the air wearing my Captain **** cape.> I'm really particular on my brake and wheel torque. I don't want one of these things to fall out!
