libertyforall1776

iTrader: (2)

Your non-adjustable rear bar came with some bushing that eliminate the need to use the Fays2 Watts Link mount spacers? Either I am misunderstanding, did not receive these or do not recall any longer.

Also, it sounds like all the replacement longer u-bolts do not have the flat part on the "U" like the factory ones do, or have some been identified by anyone?

szalkerous

iTrader: (1)

Hi Sam,

Do you supply these parts separately still? I don't think my adjustable swaybar came with them, I ordered it quite a while ago. I'd have to dig through my records but it's been a few years. I know I ordered the FAYS2 and rear bar from you at the same time, and you made sure they were compatible with each other... but the parts I have definitely don't work on my stock rear.

Since like I said, I had to try and fab up my own parts and ended up destroying the u-bolts I was attempting to use, perhaps I should just order the parts you currently recommend instead.

I also need to get one of the UMI torque arm relocation bars to get that damn thing off the tailshaft of my transmission (I already have ruined the tail seal because of it!), so maybe I'll just order them all at once.

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

No, I don't typically do the part separately. I changed the bushings in the bar after we build the earliest ones to get rid of the need for the spacer. If you want some, I can probably get you some, but they are special run for my bars so it might take a little time and they will cost more than "standard" bushings.

libertyforall1776

iTrader: (2)

Sam, we are not receiving clear information here. JD_AMG also confirmed he needed to use the spacers and longer u-bolts for the Watts Link to fit with your rear sway package. This bit about the bushings negating the need for the watts link spacers doesn't seem to fly.

Are there some pictures showing what you're talking about as well as photos showing the Watts fits w/out spacers on the original GM 10-bolt?

I am in the midst of the Watts install, and would rather not use spacers, if there is a way not to...

TIA

szalkerous

iTrader: (1)

Hmm, it would be pretty cool to see a photo of the bushings so I can compare with what I have as well.

libertyforall1776

iTrader: (2)

The Watts Link is very clapptrappy, but I do think it is worthwhile, it just takes a long time to get everything aligned and set.

Here's mine after adjusting on the passenger side, which is supposed to be about 4 O'Clock, but I had to lower a little, and raise the driver side slightly above 9 O'Clock to maintain proper geometry and keep arms equal length.

These ARE the bushings Sam is talking about, but they need to be a few mm taller STILL for adequate clearance. Driver side is fine, but passenger side is so close it will be hitting.

What I wish is Sam would provide photos of equal length, proper geometry and show the clearance he is saying should be there.

JD_AMG

This is a total assumption, but Im betting when Sam first started making his swaybars they had different bushing in the rear, since the watts link was not out yet. When the watts became available he probably revised the rear bushings to work with it. The guys like myself who bought the swaybars years ago got the older bushings that needed the spacer to work.

Hmm, seems like you could go lower with the passenger side one. I attached an old pic of mine where you can see the angles of mine and the spacer that had to be used. Here are also some pics from google to show the angles.

libertyforall1776

iTrader: (2)

^ Thanks but none of those photos show the factory axle with the current bushings and *no spacer*, which was my point. I could try more angle experiments, but I think I had enough Watts fun for one weekend. The install documentation certainly leaves much to be desired as well, I passed some of the suggestions over to Jim.

If anyone has their factory rear-end, current longer Strano sway bushings w/out spacers and still correct geometry and arm lengths, please post your photos, it's that passenger side that is the PITA. TIA!

szalkerous

iTrader: (1)

That Watts link is one hell of a pain in the *** to set up. I think we all suffered through it. But once you get the final eureka (!) moment it's so satisfying.

I see those extended bushings. Definitely not what I got. That would have made my life a lot easier than drilling and sawing through bar stock to fab up the spacers myself, etc. etc.

JD_AMG

Like I said in the above post, it seems like you could angle the pass. side arm lower (pointing down more) which would bring those bolts further away from the sway bar, as they would be pointing down more.

szalkerous

iTrader: (1)

I can't speak for others, but unfortunately for me this brought the arms out of parallel if I recall.

libertyforall1776

iTrader: (2)

I can try another day, will post my results here...

I will have to experiment while using my level, however, look at page 10 of the newer printed manual, you have two other valid options as opposed to parallel... Here is an old PDF version from 2010, but the newer one has more options.

http://www.pdf-archive.com/2014/06/3...ns-low-res.pdf

szalkerous

iTrader: (1)

The arms must always remain in parallel, even if they're not parallel to the rear housing, if my geometry is correct.

libertyforall1776

iTrader: (2)

Here's the page from my newer manual, note B & C:

szalkerous

iTrader: (1)

My memory fails me. I stand corrected.