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Quest for a better ride!

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Old Jun 10, 2013 | 11:53 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Coppertone
FWIW, I have stock springs with Koni's (all else is stock other than a PHB) and the ride is very harsh on bumps, highway seams, etc. I'm looking at other options as we speak.
What do you have them set to? My buddy has a 4th gen ta with hotchkiss springs and konis set to soft, and its a great ride, and handles like a dream.

Originally Posted by z28bryan
I think the OP is on a 3rd gen though, not a 4th gen.
This is correct!
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Old Jun 10, 2013 | 12:51 PM
  #22  
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5 weeps from full firm on the front. half turn from full firm in the rear.
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Old Jun 10, 2013 | 06:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Coppertone
5 weeps from full firm on the front. half turn from full firm in the rear.
With stock spring you've got the shocks set way to high.


Set the fronts another 3-4 sweeps softer, and the rear to full soft, maybe up to 1/8 turn from full soft at most.
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Old Jun 10, 2013 | 08:16 PM
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Correct me if I'm wrong, but don't the SA Koni's only allow for rebound adjustment?

The problem I'm having is the initial jolt and jarring from bumps. I would associate this with compression, not rebound control.
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Old Jun 10, 2013 | 09:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Coppertone
Correct me if I'm wrong, but don't the SA Koni's only allow for rebound adjustment?

The problem I'm having is the initial jolt and jarring from bumps. I would associate this with compression, not rebound control.
When you basically overpower the spring by turning up the rebound to high, the springs aren't allowed to extend the shocks fast enough after the initial compression. This Jacking Down causes the car to get into the bump stops more often and harder.
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Old Jun 11, 2013 | 09:54 AM
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Originally Posted by 99Bluz28
When you basically overpower the spring by turning up the rebound to high, the springs aren't allowed to extend the shocks fast enough after the initial compression. This Jacking Down causes the car to get into the bump stops more often and harder.
Thanks for your input, but the harshness I'm feeling is not from the bumpstops. I'm talking about hitting road seams, and small bumps at less than 10 mph, that feel like I'm on a wooden wheel wagon.

I adjusted the settings when I first put the shocks on and it felt a little more floaty, but the initial harshness, jolt, and jarring was still there in its entirety.

I went over some speed bumps yesterday and paid attention closely. The car jumped up and over them; much like a suspenion-less bicycle, if you can picture that. I'd be hard-pressed to say the suspension compressed more than 1/4".

Keep in mind, I can sit on the fender and bounce up and down and the springs/shocks BARELY compress at all. I'm 230lbs.
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Old Jun 11, 2013 | 01:17 PM
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I dont know.. wierd. Mine feel pretty good. Wondering if there's something different about your shocks?

Not sure if this matters or not, but some people seemed to have issues with the front shock lower mount bushing needing to be turned slightly. Like it wasn't intially angled correctly. Not sure if that preloads the shock shaft at all horizontally???
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Old Jun 11, 2013 | 02:22 PM
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That's exactly what I'm thinking.
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Old Jun 11, 2013 | 03:24 PM
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I'm pretty sure you want the outside edge of the front shock(toward the tires) lower t-bar to be angled up. Like in this photo.
http://www.eshocks.com/images/Bil_new/24-024068_1.jpg
Otherwise the lower mount will be trying to push the LCAs down effectively increasing the front spring rate causing a harsher ride and sometimes an increase in ride height. I went through this once myself and later with a friends car.
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Old Jun 11, 2013 | 03:36 PM
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That's exactly what I'm thinking! My only question is: Does that tab rotate in the bushing or is it fixed however it was molded by Koni?

If I remove the strut assembly, will enough muscle be able to turn it how I need it? I tried when it was new and it would not budge.
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Old Jun 11, 2013 | 10:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Coppertone
That's exactly what I'm thinking! My only question is: Does that tab rotate in the bushing or is it fixed however it was molded by Koni?

If I remove the strut assembly, will enough muscle be able to turn it how I need it? I tried when it was new and it would not budge.
I don't think it so, I believe the rubber is fused to the metal. You should be able to tell if the t-bar is turned in the right direction by popping the upper ball-joint out and taking the two lower shock bolts out.
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Old Jun 12, 2013 | 01:43 PM
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Any updates camaro1185..?

If possible try swapping wheels/tires with a friend, just to make sure the tires aren't the problem. I would also at least get a set of LCAs in the rear that will allow full articulation; that itself will improve both the ride and handling.
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Old Jun 12, 2013 | 01:47 PM
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I set my Konis to full soft in the rear (they are 4 turns from full soft on the front I believe...whatever the recommended setting is) and it rides a lot better on the highway. There's a huge bump that used to bottom the car out and I barely feel it now, but those places where the road rises an inch or two still make it feel horrible. Not that I'll ride around with them like this all the time, but it certainly helped...
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Old Jun 12, 2013 | 02:18 PM
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If someone doesn't like their Konis I'll trade you straight up for my Bilsteins.

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Old Jun 12, 2013 | 02:21 PM
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lol be careful what you wish for. It feels like my car is going to come apart after a moderate bump/pothole.
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Old Jun 12, 2013 | 02:30 PM
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Frankly I really like right characteristics of my car right now (though it needs better sway bars eventually). Main reason I want the konis is for the lower front perch. Dang V6 engine doesn't weigh enough and I want that last 1/2 inch drop darn it! Ha. Maybe I should attach some cinder blocks to my frame to simulate the extra weight
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Old Jun 12, 2013 | 03:27 PM
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Originally Posted by 99Bluz28
Any updates camaro1185..?

If possible try swapping wheels/tires with a friend, just to make sure the tires aren't the problem. I would also at least get a set of LCAs in the rear that will allow full articulation; that itself will improve both the ride and handling.
I did play quite a bit with the shock settings. I had them on full soft before and there was very little dampening. I think I have them set on 3F2R now, and while it doesnt break my back as much anymore, its still firm as hell.

I have come to the realization that what I want out of my suspension isnt probably possible. THe best way I can describe it is, i want the car to ride like a vette around town/highways, but corner extremely well with very little body roll. A little firm is ok, but my car is crazy stiff. While its not my DD, i do drive the car a lot.

The stance of the car is PERFECT, but im considering going back to stock springs with konis. Not as rough driving, but will probably corner decent.
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Old Aug 7, 2013 | 08:28 AM
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Bringing this back ---- on the drive to work today on the rough roads the car seems to "slam" over the bumps. Thats the best way I can describe the way the car drives and my reason for a "rough ride" I wonder if my shocks are blown?

That would totally suck since they have only 7k miles and have been on the car for 2 years.
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Old Aug 7, 2013 | 03:36 PM
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The slam, is it in the front or back?

Last edited by 99Bluz28; Aug 7, 2013 at 04:02 PM.
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Old Aug 7, 2013 | 04:10 PM
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I think my Camaro rides pretty good for what it is. Bumps rarely feel that great, but they arent horrible. Big bumps are like out of the question. I am not expecting my passengers to take a nice nap while I'm offroading in my ls1 fbody.

Slamming over bumps could mean one of two things:
1. The shocks aren't dampening the movement good enough and you hit full suspension travel at a higher velocity
2. They are too stiff and your body is absorbing the bumps rather than the suspension

Which do you think is occurring?
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