Brake Bleeding Problem
Brake Bleeding Problem Ok here it goes. The car is a 96 trans am I removed and rebuilt the 10 bolt. It has abs and traction control. We bled the rear brakes afterward with no real problem other thatn a brake light on the dash. the haynes manual says the car needs to be bled with a tech 2 any time the rear end is removed. Did not do this at the time like I said the brakes bled fine and everything flet good. Still planned on having this done.
Well I did the ls1 brake swap and we're trying to bleed the brakes and the pedal will not get hard.
When the car is off the pedal gets rock hard on the 2nd or 3rd pump. With the engine running the pedal goes to the floor everytime.
Even rebled the back brakes just to be safe and it still goes to the floor everytime.
Any ideas? I don't think its safe to drive to a dealer and I really don't want to have it towed.
Well I did the ls1 brake swap and we're trying to bleed the brakes and the pedal will not get hard.
When the car is off the pedal gets rock hard on the 2nd or 3rd pump. With the engine running the pedal goes to the floor everytime.
Even rebled the back brakes just to be safe and it still goes to the floor everytime.
Any ideas? I don't think its safe to drive to a dealer and I really don't want to have it towed.
It needs to have an ABS service bleed done to it, preferably with a pressure brake bleeder.
You can try to make a home made pressure bleeder yourself and try and bleed them but that won't cycle the ABS pump.
Also, after you bleed it go on a gravel road or open parking lot and try and engage the ABS by braking really hard. This can/will cycle the pump but isn't 100%.
You can try to make a home made pressure bleeder yourself and try and bleed them but that won't cycle the ABS pump.
Also, after you bleed it go on a gravel road or open parking lot and try and engage the ABS by braking really hard. This can/will cycle the pump but isn't 100%.
It needs to have an ABS service bleed done to it, preferably with a pressure brake bleeder.
You can try to make a home made pressure bleeder yourself and try and bleed them but that won't cycle the ABS pump.
Also, after you bleed it go on a gravel road or open parking lot and try and engage the ABS by braking really hard. This can/will cycle the pump but isn't 100%.
You can try to make a home made pressure bleeder yourself and try and bleed them but that won't cycle the ABS pump.
Also, after you bleed it go on a gravel road or open parking lot and try and engage the ABS by braking really hard. This can/will cycle the pump but isn't 100%.
There's a thread on here where someone made a pressure bleeder.
u need a tech2 have the abs block elctronics work, or
the way i have always done it is bleed the car in two stages
once all the way areound with the car off
and then again with th car on
begin with pssenger rear, then driver rear, then passenger frnt, then driver front
has never failed for me and i have replaced rear ends on these car before
the way i have always done it is bleed the car in two stages
once all the way areound with the car off
and then again with th car on
begin with pssenger rear, then driver rear, then passenger frnt, then driver front
has never failed for me and i have replaced rear ends on these car before
And nothing new. We replaced the master cylinder thinking it was bad bleed it all again with the mityvac method and the pump the pedal. Still nothing.
I'm running out of ideas.Tried spinning the tire and applying the brakes gently. Even put the car in drive and applied the brakes.
u need a tech2 have the abs block elctronics work, or
the way i have always done it is bleed the car in two stages
once all the way areound with the car off
and then again with th car on
begin with pssenger rear, then driver rear, then passenger frnt, then driver front
has never failed for me and i have replaced rear ends on these car before
the way i have always done it is bleed the car in two stages
once all the way areound with the car off
and then again with th car on
begin with pssenger rear, then driver rear, then passenger frnt, then driver front
has never failed for me and i have replaced rear ends on these car before
Raptor I'll have to give that a try tomorrow and report back.
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It ran outta gas we put some gas in it, my cousin had just filled a 5 gallon can, and we don't hear the pump priming. So I'll have to get back to the brakes when I can get it started.
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if you have an air compressor and have a regulator you can reliably get a steady flow of 10-15 psi of pressure, then buy just the $30 GM pressure cap from Motive that goes with their pressure bleeder. fill the master reservoir completely then attached the motive cap and pressurize, then open a caliper bleeder and run down the reservoir but don't let air get into the master. stop, refill master, do again for all calipers. this will force air through the system, most people don't realize that the calipers are lower than the master cylinder so you need to get fast brake fluid flow through the system to force any air out especially if it's around or in the abs unit. if you do by the motive pressure bleeder kit, i recommend you do like i described and only use the motive bottle as a pressurized air tank, don't put brake fluid in it because the motive cap on the master reservoir will leak and then you get brake fluid all over the ******* place. there's no need to have a 2 quart container of brake fluid run continuously through the system, the master reservoir is large enough to effectively bleed the system that much at a time.
or if your cheap and don't mind, get a 5/16" hose barb fitting and pipe plug from depot and install the barb into your oem plastic cap and use that. when done, remove the barb and install the plug.
or if your cheap and don't mind, get a 5/16" hose barb fitting and pipe plug from depot and install the barb into your oem plastic cap and use that. when done, remove the barb and install the plug.
