How hard is it to check to see if a wheel bearing is screwed up?? Expensive to fix?? Need more info on em.

Thanks

 

Front or rear?

 

Sorry, rear.

 

you might feel resistance in the wheel, a kinda sandy/salty sound in the rotation of the wheel, but the easiest way is to jack the car up and secure it, and then grasp the top and bottom of the wheel, and try to jerk it in and out--------- IN = towards the car OUT = away from car. if you feel any play they are prolly bad.....in my 99 they have modular wheel bearing which are $$$ to replace, but make the job easier.

good luck

Mike

 

What do you mean by, "play"?? Also, I don't feel any resistance. One more thing, I put wd40 near the brake pads and the sound stopped about 95%.

Thanks

 

If you lubed up the brake pad, it could be that it is still in contact with the rotor. This could be causing your resistance. Do a search cause this was brought up not too long ago and I can't remember the solution off the top of my head.




edit: When I say still in contact with the rotor, I mean it's not disengaging all the way. They're suposed to be touching, but just barely.

 

I don't feel any resistance at all, but I will do a search.
Thanks

 

Wheel bearing are cheap and relatively easy to do yourself.
If your a DIY'er, you'll be pissed you payed someone to do it once you see how easy it is. Do a search and you'll find some detailed instructions (probably mostly written around gear changes) Autozone rents a nice bearing puller too.

Good luck!

 

Anyone got a guide on how to do it??

 

Let me first say that my GM experience is really only with Torsen differentials, and if you have an Auburn, this will probably be innaccurate.

Tools:
Bearing puller (rent)
Bearing/Race driver (rent)
Flat blade screwdriver
10mm socket & 1/4" drive ratchet
Gasket scraper
socket/wrenches for diff cover and fill plug/overflow plug

Parts/Supplies:
Bearing
Axle seal
Diff cover gasket
Diff. oil (two quarts)
Gasket sealant (Black RTV?)
small piece of 1/4" or 5/16" x 4" hose to fit on bottle to fill diff with (makes life easier)

Lift the rear and remove the wheels and support it on jackstands

Remove brake calipers, (don't let them hang from the brake hoses)

If you have ABS, remove the single 10mm bolt for the abs from the backing plate and move it out of the way (you'll need to be able to push in the axle to drop the c-clip is why, this sensor gets in the way)

Take off the diff. cover. have a pan there to catch the fluid.

Rotate the driveshaft until you see the spacer block in the center of the differential. There is a single bolt on this piece that has to be removed, then it just slides right out.

Push in on your axle(s) (not sure if you know what side this noise is coming from or not, I would try to have someone or yourself listen closely to isolate the side by riding in the back of the car), the c-clip will drop off inside the differential. Remove it and carefully pull the axle out. Inspect the axle where it rides on the bearing. If you have damage from it, thats where you'll see it. There should be no scaring there at all.

fyi, You have carrier bearing and axle bearings, carrier bearings typically last a long time. Now your can see the axle seal on the very outside of the axle housing. Take a flat blade screw driver and gently pry it out.

Get your bearing remover (don't get that awful 3 prong one, get the one specifically for axle bearings, AND get the slide hammer that it joins to.

Slip it through the bearing, tighten up the tool on the outside and give it a good solid whack or two towards you with the slide hammer, and it should come right out.

My bearing had chewed on the axle, and I replaced the axle as a result
I tried the Timken repair bearing, and it wouldn't fully seat, so I ended up changing out the axle and using a new bearing.

(Look inside the axle tube and make a mental note of the lip that the bearing will seat against, so you know pretty much how far to drive it in)

To reinstall the new bearing, get the bearing/race driver from Autozone as well, and gently tap evenly around it to get it started, then use the bearing driver (becareful to use a size that doesn't hit the bearings innards, only hit the bearing race instead, I think I ended up reversing the piece of the driver that contacts the bearing so that I only had a flat surface up against the bearing) Like I said, drive it in evenly, and when your sure it's fully seated, install the seal. Make sure this goes in evenly, and try not to smack the rubber part of the seal. I most often just use a hammer and try to be careful here. When the seal is fully seated, put the axle back in, support it somewhat going in so you don't tear up the new seal. Get the axle all the way back into the differential and put the clip back on. then the spacer block back in, scrape your gasket surfaces clean and reinstall a new gasket using a good gasket sealer. (I think I've used RTV black here) Tighen in a cross pattern, like your lugnuts and then fill up the diffential. Get a couple quarts of gear oil, also, you don't need anti-slip for a torsen, wait for it to drain out the over flow hole and your done, awfully close to two quarts, but not quite. Undo the overflow plug when you fill it so you don't overdo it, and the excess will run out that hole.

Put your ABS sensor(s) back on and your calipers/wheels and your done!

This whole process probably sounds worse/more involved than it really is. But the worst part of the whole thing is scraping off the old gasket off the cover and housing.

I don't think I've left anything out, someone chime in please if I did!

 

um i think he is talking about a wheel bearing not an axle bearing. if you were talking wheel bearing all it is, is four bolts that hold it on, if you have the hub assembly like i do in my 99........take the wheel the caliper - pads - rotor off, and you will see the assembly, take the four bolts out and pull it off........it is late here and i am not sure what i am really typing so if it sounds stupid or i am way off i apologize, but that is how i did my fronts.

Mike

 

There's his quote, rear.

 

Well, it's the left rear wheel that's making the noise. But about now, I'm sick of it all and would just pay 200 to get it fixed.