vibrations issues help needed.
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vibrations issues help needed.
Hey guys. I have a 2001 ws6 and from one day to the other I start feeling a bad vibration from the rear all the way to my floorboard! Happens only when driving but gets worse at 40-65mph or 1500-2000 rpm,I just changed the torque arm bushing n Trans mount and feels the same! I have no grinding or whining noises. Any ideas what could it be? Its a 01 ws6 M6 with 109k good tires on it.thanks
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I would suspect u joints since u have changed out your bushing/mount. Is it the stock tq arm? I've seen them break toward the rear axle. Check carfully for breakage. Same goes for ctrl arms, again assuming they r stock. Fill us in on what u find
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could be any thing really bent rim, bad tire, u joints
if you can rotate the tires to rule them out? I recently power washed my rims and washed away a wheel weight it was very noticeable right way
if you can rotate the tires to rule them out? I recently power washed my rims and washed away a wheel weight it was very noticeable right way
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My friend just had my wheels on his didn't do it I think its to much for a off balance tire!
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#8
I had a noise like that and went through everything above. I finally figured it out and when I installed exhaust there was a spot in back at high rpms were it would hit body causing bad noise. I pounded out where you could see scraches and never had again. Hope this helps
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[QUOTE=2birdJosh;17436368]I had a noise like that and went through everything above. I finally figured it out and when I installed exhaust there was a spot in back at high rpms were it would hit body causing bad noise. I pounded out where you could see scraches and never had again. Hope this helps
That day I did mess with the exhaust and I checked that found that curve that goes over the rear end and looked like t was caving in cause of the rubbing but I would've never thought that would make it that bad! ! Ill go over that again today
That day I did mess with the exhaust and I checked that found that curve that goes over the rear end and looked like t was caving in cause of the rubbing but I would've never thought that would make it that bad! ! Ill go over that again today
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Checked every corner checked exhaust and still the same was going to change all for wheels but it started to rain (fl weather) but will try again tomorrow! No grinding or whining
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oh boy here we go again...
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspensio...ano-parts.html
good read there
Also, does it change if you rev the car (in neutral?) does it change if you put it in gear and hit the gas?
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspensio...ano-parts.html
good read there
Also, does it change if you rev the car (in neutral?) does it change if you put it in gear and hit the gas?
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I went thru that one already LOL but no it doesn't change but it gets bad when I'm slowing down like if it was the exhaust rubbing I checked that already! Swapping wheels tomorrow
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Swap wheels rear to front, that will tell you if it's the
wheels.
Wheel out-of-round or imbalanced will be a lower
frequency vibration than driveshaft, by about 3:1.
Wheel, you'd feel while driveshaft, you'd hear.
You could get it on jackstands (or better) and let
the rear wheels spin, check runout (wobble) and
out-of-round using a cinderblock and a ruler set
on it as an indicator. You would then also get to see
if this is happening with suspension unloaded, or
not; driveshaft can interfere with I-pipe and so on,
if it's not hung just right, and this can be worse
on braking or acceleration (but would not come
and go by RPM or wheel speed alone). Under the
car you might be able to find the source of a
clank / clunk / vibe by ear.
wheels.
Wheel out-of-round or imbalanced will be a lower
frequency vibration than driveshaft, by about 3:1.
Wheel, you'd feel while driveshaft, you'd hear.
You could get it on jackstands (or better) and let
the rear wheels spin, check runout (wobble) and
out-of-round using a cinderblock and a ruler set
on it as an indicator. You would then also get to see
if this is happening with suspension unloaded, or
not; driveshaft can interfere with I-pipe and so on,
if it's not hung just right, and this can be worse
on braking or acceleration (but would not come
and go by RPM or wheel speed alone). Under the
car you might be able to find the source of a
clank / clunk / vibe by ear.
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This may sound odd, but check and possibly adjust your exhaust -- it could be playing an issue. I had an issue similar to what you describe around the same speeds on my SS, that felt like a driveline vibration, I believed was pinion angle related -- possibly from my SFCs being welded on only a two-point lift by Speed Inc. The suspension is supposed to be at rest like on a four-point lift.
Well, the vibration issue *appears* to have gone away upon install of headers and catted y-pipe with new OEM motor mounts (stocker rubber was cracked but not horrible) -- I did have to have the OE exhaust adjusted due to exhaust leak which could also have tweaked something since it's another continuous metal connection.
Just theorizing, hope this provides food for thought for others...
Well, the vibration issue *appears* to have gone away upon install of headers and catted y-pipe with new OEM motor mounts (stocker rubber was cracked but not horrible) -- I did have to have the OE exhaust adjusted due to exhaust leak which could also have tweaked something since it's another continuous metal connection.
Just theorizing, hope this provides food for thought for others...