Are you guys planing on selling just the front kit without the rear shocks?

 

Yeah I thought you guys had just the front kit on there at one time, I already have rear double adjustables and would be interested in just the front!

 

Front only. Here you go!

http://umiperformance.com/catalog/in...roducts_id=743

thanks for the interest!

Happy 4th

ramey

 

what is the difference between your roto joint and rod end?
i what to purchase relocation brackets and lower control arms. i resently lowered the car and put new tires on it and now it wheels hops really bad. i noticed that there is not a poly/roto off car adjustable. kinf of like the 2016#. i was looking for better control of the rear without a comprimise in road noise and something i can still use when i do a aftermarket rear (adjustable) but id prefer it could not drift settings if the jam nuts loosened over time like an on car adjustable could. these will correct it right?

 

why dont you guys recommend the rear viking coilovers?? i know MWC sells them and says good things about them.

 

Love the stance with those suspension upgrades.

 

Thanks for the interest!

We can do a 2016 style with a Roto-Joint but you'd have to call to order (they aren't on the site). The negative with doing that type of arm is they can't go much shorter than stock, due to the Roto-Joint housing size. Our arms are intended to provide adjustment in both directions. If you go into it knowing they won't provide that shortening option they're pretty nice.

ramey

 

I'm not familiar with MWC's Viking coilovers for the rear. I've seen their rear bracketry though so I'd imagine they just use that.

ramey

 

Gotcha. But what's the difference between the joints. What end combination should I get.

 

A rod end is a race-only end which transfers a lot of "feel" to the driver and chassis. Rod ends are a disposable item (they get noisy on the street) and need replacing on occasion.

Our Roto-Joint gives most of the performance of a rod end with better street comfort and cushioning. It's basically a hybrid unit that is the best of both worlds. Performance and comfort.

http://umiperformance.com/catalog/in...age=roto_joint

 

so does the poly bushing still dampen sound better then the roto joint? What kind of performance difference can I expect between the roto/roto vs the poly/roto? Both are available in black right? I think I saw that they were.

 

Thanks a lot ramey for the sale and link to the front shocks! I know I've weve talked about this awhile back but which spring would you pick-300-350? My car is a little less than stock weight ss! Its not a daily driver juss a street/strip toy! I dont take any corners fast, juss a straight line kinda guy! I have full umI suspension in the back, with your drag bar on the street seting and da afcos on the rear! Six speed stock ci ls1 h/c/I/ &nitrous! What spring would do me the all around best?

 

The poly bushing does damp sound better than the Roto.

The performance potential of Roto x 2 is higher than Roto/poly but you may be hard pressed to feel a seat of the pants difference. Poly on the chassis side will be more comfortable. Really, both are a great choice.

Yes, available in red and black.

 

My personal preference for a street driven car would be the 350. If you absolutely want to optimize your 60 ft, move to the 300. The difference is subtle. More street --> 350. More strip ---> 300.

Thanks for the question.

-- Ramey

 

bmr front lowering springs are 550lbs. why should street cars run the 350lbs in this setup??

is that the same case for people that has heavier front ends such as t/a's with iron blocks and whatnot

 

They have the 550lb. Springs too, I juss dont autocross or anything like that so thats why im looking at the 300-350lb. springs. Mines a street/strip car! But thanks for the info Ramey, I think the 350lb. ones will be the ones I go with!

 

I think that's a good choice based on your driving plans.

As for 550's, they're known to balance nicely with 150 rears. Keep in mind the 550/150 combo is optimized with the correct bars, shocks, tires, etc.

When cornering as normal street cars do, the lower rates work fine and add some comfort.

All the spring rate talk concerning optimization is centered around cornering at the absolute limit as in carving road course corners or auto-x heroics.

 

Thanks for helping me Ramey, I took advantage of the sale and ordered mine last night, I went ahead with the 350lb springs, I think theyll go with my current setup well!

 

Thanks for the order!

 

Would the Viking Coilovers and a stock rear spring work pretty well? I imagine with the 350 fronts it'd be a nice street setup and since you can adjust the ride height in the front as you please, you can either keep the stock look or lower the front down for a bit of a rake.

Since I'm running Kooks TDs, the lowest part of the system is actually right before the rear axle. And I'm looking to run a 325/50-15. So keeping the car up in the rear is actually pretty important for tire clearance and exhaust clearance. But I do plan to go with an iron block in the front and wouldn't mind trying to corner on my 17x9 275 street tires on all four once in a while. So I think the 550s would be a little better.

Would the 550 front mate up well with the stock rear springs? Or should I try to get a spring with more rate in the rear?