Bump stop question
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Staging Lane
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 75
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From: North Carolina
Bump stop question Noob question for you all....So I purchased a pair of 3rd gen bump stops off the bay to replace my basically nonexistent OEM ones. I have an 2000 SS that has the spacers under them and the car also has the Eibach springs. My question is how much "travel space" is normally there between the end of the stop and the axle? Just eyeballing under there it doesn't look like there will maybe even be a half inch to inch of space once I swap them out (with the car on the ground). Any ideas?
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 75
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From: North Carolina
Thanks for the reply, I think I'll go that route actually. Worse case, I'll put them back in. My main concern is wanting the suspension, even though replacing all of it is next on my mods list, to be able to do its thing and yet not have the axle take a beating. I've already hit so hard on a bump on the highway and put a small dent in my brand new Magnaflow exhaust piping. 
Thanks for the reply, I think I'll go that route actually. Worse case, I'll put them back in. My main concern is wanting the suspension, even though replacing all of it is next on my mods list, to be able to do its thing and yet not have the axle take a beating. I've already hit so hard on a bump on the highway and put a small dent in my brand new Magnaflow exhaust piping.
Last edited by 99Bluz28; Jul 9, 2013 at 01:30 PM.
be aware the purpose of the bump stop is to limit upward travel of the rear axle not just so the exhaust does not get dented but also so the drive shaft doesn't travel upward and rub on the body and especially the parking brake bracket on the tunnel. because if it does at speed it'll act like a cutting bit on an aluminum drive shaft and you may have a disasterous failure. the smart thing which is not hard but you need a few jacks is to undo the shocks and lower the rear axle down so you can remove the springs. then you can raise the axle up to which ever bump stops you are using and then check clearance of everything including your drive shaft.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 75
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From: North Carolina
I actually do have an over axle pipe. It's a brand new Magnaflow cat back system. Then dent is from the axle hitting the pipe. I can tell because the backside of the axle housing has a shiny rub spot lined up directly where the dent is on the pipe. I'm sure with 82K on the old decarbons/Eibachs along with basically no bump stops left, that suspension can't do it's job and needs replacing. Nevermind all the damn noise that goes on back there. I can see where the owner before me had put poly bushings in alot of the OEM parts back there and they look old and crusty too.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 75
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From: North Carolina
be aware the purpose of the bump stop is to limit upward travel of the rear axle not just so the exhaust does not get dented but also so the drive shaft doesn't travel upward and rub on the body and especially the parking brake bracket on the tunnel. because if it does at speed it'll act like a cutting bit on an aluminum drive shaft and you may have a disasterous failure. the smart thing which is not hard but you need a few jacks is to undo the shocks and lower the rear axle down so you can remove the springs. then you can raise the axle up to which ever bump stops you are using and then check clearance of everything including your drive shaft.
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TECH Resident
Joined: Mar 2002
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From: North Las Vegas, NV
I actually do have an over axle pipe. It's a brand new Magnaflow cat back system. Then dent is from the axle hitting the pipe. I can tell because the backside of the axle housing has a shiny rub spot lined up directly where the dent is on the pipe. I'm sure with 82K on the old decarbons/Eibachs along with basically no bump stops left, that suspension can't do it's job and needs replacing. Nevermind all the damn noise that goes on back there. I can see where the owner before me had put poly bushings in alot of the OEM parts back there and they look old and crusty too.
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Verdad Gallardo Yeah, a good set of shocks would help a lot along with lowering springs with a proper spring rate to match the given amount of lowering(drop), Id also check for play in the passenger side rear exhaust hanger, over time as the bushing wears the exhaust begins to hang lower.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 75
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From: North Carolina
Thanks again for everyone's input!
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 75
Likes: 0
From: North Carolina
Yeah, a good set of shocks would help a lot along with lowering springs with a proper spring rate to match the given amount of lowering(drop), Id also check for play in the passenger side rear exhaust hanger, over time as the bushing wears the exhaust begins to hang lower.
My plan of attack is to do the Bilsteins w/ Stranos, and then go UMI poly/roto combos on the panhard, LCAs, and prob some Strano sway bars... already have welded subframes on there. My car won't see the track, and will be primarily a street cruiser that'll I'll get aggressive with from time to time. I'm trying to get the happy medium between performance and good ride quality. Sound like a decent route?
Thanks again for everyone's input!
Thanks again for everyone's input!
On the PHB noise isn't much of a issue so even rod-ends will be perfectly fine.
Last edited by 99Bluz28; Jul 9, 2013 at 07:48 PM.
TECH Resident
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 782
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From: North Las Vegas, NV
My plan of attack is to do the Bilsteins w/ Stranos, and then go UMI poly/roto combos on the panhard, LCAs, and prob some Strano sway bars... already have welded subframes on there. My car won't see the track, and will be primarily a street cruiser that'll I'll get aggressive with from time to time. I'm trying to get the happy medium between performance and good ride quality. Sound like a decent route?
Thanks again for everyone's input!
Thanks again for everyone's input!
1. Skip the LCA's.
2. Get the double adjustable rod/rod PHB. Don't worry about noise, mine makes none.
My car turns (rotates) great and rides well.
Teching In
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 1
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From: Indiana
I also have the eibach lowering springs on my ws6, and the previous owner of my car completely removed the bump stops because you could see them through the wheel and he didn't like it. Now every time I hit a big bump the rear end bottoms out
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 75
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From: North Carolina
Thanks
I have those 3 piece Founders LCAs. So far I have been very happy with them. I haven't pushed the car into turns or anything yet (bad idea on bald tires!) but so far so good. I do have a poly/poly panhard, now that I think about it the panhard should probably have some rotational joints on it as well. The ride is just fine to me, vastly improved over what I had, but I changed a bunch of stuff at the same time so I can't say for sure the exact effect each part had on the characteristics.
I went from shot stock LCAs, stock sagged springs, worn out cheapo GR2 shocks, and worn/torn bushings in the front to Founders 3 piece LCAs, Strano springs, Bilstein shocks, and all new rubber bushings up front. HUGE difference.
I went from shot stock LCAs, stock sagged springs, worn out cheapo GR2 shocks, and worn/torn bushings in the front to Founders 3 piece LCAs, Strano springs, Bilstein shocks, and all new rubber bushings up front. HUGE difference.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 75
Likes: 0
From: North Carolina
I have those 3 piece Founders LCAs. So far I have been very happy with them. I haven't pushed the car into turns or anything yet (bad idea on bald tires!) but so far so good. I do have a poly/poly panhard, now that I think about it the panhard should probably have some rotational joints on it as well. The ride is just fine to me, vastly improved over what I had, but I changed a bunch of stuff at the same time so I can't say for sure the exact effect each part had on the characteristics.
I went from shot stock LCAs, stock sagged springs, worn out cheapo GR2 shocks, and worn/torn bushings in the front to Founders 3 piece LCAs, Strano springs, Bilstein shocks, and all new rubber bushings up front. HUGE difference.
I went from shot stock LCAs, stock sagged springs, worn out cheapo GR2 shocks, and worn/torn bushings in the front to Founders 3 piece LCAs, Strano springs, Bilstein shocks, and all new rubber bushings up front. HUGE difference.
So what all did you swap out up front exactly?
Upper and lower LCA bushings, and new upper strut mounts and isolators, all with Moog parts. Also did ball joints, forgot to mention (that lower is a PAIN to get in straight!). I did do the end links also but left the sway bar bushings since I plan on upgrading the bars eventually.
Before I did all this stuff the car would wander around the road a lot and bumps felt like you were going to lose your teeth. Now it is a firm, but controlled and comfortable ride (IMO) and I'm not constantly catching the car. I think I need to tweak the alignment a bit as it tends to want to drift left a bit depending on the road, but I'm going to wait on that until I get new tires.
Before I did all this stuff the car would wander around the road a lot and bumps felt like you were going to lose your teeth. Now it is a firm, but controlled and comfortable ride (IMO) and I'm not constantly catching the car. I think I need to tweak the alignment a bit as it tends to want to drift left a bit depending on the road, but I'm going to wait on that until I get new tires.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 75
Likes: 0
From: North Carolina
Thanks
