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Old Oct 17, 2013 | 12:46 PM
  #21  
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There was a direct hit on the passenger side from the previous owner.

Alignment shop said they could NOT get my car to stay in spec. Drove it around the block and it was screwed up again.

Passenger side Driver side Front-ish
Attached Thumbnails Camber question-image-838772175.jpg   Camber question-image-391688222.jpg   Camber question-image-4170964616.jpg  
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Old Oct 17, 2013 | 12:55 PM
  #22  
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Sure looks like something is bent to me on the Right front. A lot of negative camber, where the left has none... in fact it looks positive. I'd bet you have a bend steering knuckle/upright if you hit them right it takes less than you think to bend one and it's impossible to see it because it's not straight to start with.

But if they can get it to spec, and then it doesn't stay, something else is wrong. Like trashed bushings and/or ball-joints.
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Old Oct 17, 2013 | 01:00 PM
  #23  
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Believe me now?? Lol. It's all getting replaced as money allows. So I went with a new spindle and upper control arms. It will eventually be all tubular.
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Old Oct 17, 2013 | 01:06 PM
  #24  
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But you have to find the problem. If you have trashed lower balljoints or bushings (more likely than having trashed uppers fwiw), then you will still have the issues with the magic moving alignment....
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Old Oct 17, 2013 | 02:04 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Sam Strano
But you have to find the problem. If you have trashed lower balljoints or bushings (more likely than having trashed uppers fwiw), then you will still have the issues with the magic moving alignment....
True. I am working on finding the problem. I'm hoping it's just the uppers cuz I won't be able to get the lowers for a few months.
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Old Oct 17, 2013 | 08:22 PM
  #26  
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You must have went to an el cheapo alignment shop if the tech didn't catch that. Take it to a good shop and they'll tell you exactly what's bent. Since it's been hit in the past, it's also possible you have a bent frame or tweaked k-member.
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Old Oct 18, 2013 | 09:48 PM
  #27  
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He caught it but said my strut tower was pushed in.. I call bs cuz wouldn't that mean my shocks would be off and a strut bar wouldn't line up?

I'll install all the passenger side parts tomorrow and post a picture. Hopefully it straightens up.
(New spindle upper arms shocks springs)
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Old Oct 19, 2013 | 03:06 PM
  #28  
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I swapped the passenger spindle at lunch. It fixed the camber problem. Now I just have to take it all Back apart next week for shocks/springs and uppers.
Attached Thumbnails Camber question-image-4189329747.jpg   Camber question-image-4036896288.jpg  
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Old Nov 15, 2013 | 05:49 PM
  #29  
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After putting the car back on the alignment rack the camber is off but the toe is on point. The problem is I can visually see the camber is in on the top (negative camber) after doing a comparison to the rear wheels. whenever I click on the “illustrate camber adjustments” it says it does not specify adjustments to the vehicle. Anyone know how to adjust the camber on aftermarket 18” wheels? Isnt there a special tool?
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Old Nov 16, 2013 | 02:24 PM
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Originally Posted by 93Euphoria
After putting the car back on the alignment rack the camber is off but the toe is on point. The problem is I can visually see the camber is in on the top (negative camber) after doing a comparison to the rear wheels. whenever I click on the “illustrate camber adjustments” it says it does not specify adjustments to the vehicle. Anyone know how to adjust the camber on aftermarket 18” wheels? Isnt there a special tool?
HOLY CRAP, this isn't rocket science!!!



The lower a-arms are moved inward or outward, to adjust camber/caster. The arms are held in place by two bolts, one vertical (caster) and one horizontal (camber). Yes, there is a specific tool called a "J-hook" that some alignment shops, and most Chevy/Pontiac dealers should have. And some serious enthusiasts like me, have two of them. It makes the job a lot easier. However, if you loosen the bolts a LITTLE, and GENTLY pry against the a-arm with a pry bar, you can slide the a-arms around.


BTW, it makes NO DIFFERENCE what diameter your wheels are....
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Old Nov 20, 2013 | 05:03 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by leadfoot4
HOLY CRAP, this isn't rocket science!!!



The lower a-arms are moved inward or outward, to adjust camber/caster. The arms are held in place by two bolts, one vertical (caster) and one horizontal (camber). Yes, there is a specific tool called a "J-hook" that some alignment shops, and most Chevy/Pontiac dealers should have. And some serious enthusiasts like me, have two of them. It makes the job a lot easier. However, if you loosen the bolts a LITTLE, and GENTLY pry against the a-arm with a pry bar, you can slide the a-arms around.


BTW, it makes NO DIFFERENCE what diameter your wheels are....
Originally Posted by leadfoot4
HOLY CRAP, this isn't rocket science!!!
Lol relax dude. Ive only been a GS for 2 months. Just started doing alignments 2 weeks ago. I know the difference in our cars about camber, caster, and toe. I just wanted to make sure because I remember an old friend of mine awhile back telling me you cant adjust the camber and caster without some sort of special tool. Thats why I asked about it. No need to be a smartass. But anyways thanks for specifying the tool.

Just want to make sure after doing some research if this one would work on 93-97 cars.

http://www.andysautosport.com/chevro...p00433092.html

If not than ill call the dealer.
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