Greatwhitet/a

iTrader: (1)

Ok so my thought is that on lowered fbodies we are constantly dealing with decreased suspension travel. Jasonww helped with his upper shock mount mod in the front, but I have never seen something similar for the rear.
The other day I was looking at how the QA1 coilovers mount up with a rod end joint setup, and it somehow led me to this idea.
I am unsure if this has been done, or if it is worthwhile. Anyway just look at the attached picture, and tell me what you think.

The overall idea is to make an extension bracket to simply lower the lower shock mount effectively gaining whatever distance back (lets say 1") in shock travel. That way on a lowered car you are closer to being right in the middle of the shock stroke at neuteral....3"comp. and 3"rebound. I believe.


I am guessing that a considerable strength piece of iron or what not will need to be bolted or really welded in place. Give me some feedback.

TempleU_WS6

iTrader: (6)

That seems like a pretty solid idea, I hope someone will try it out and give some feedback. Do you have any links to the front upper shock mod?

Greatwhitet/a

iTrader: (1)

https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspensio...ock-mount.html

is the thread you are looking for TempleU_WS6

TempleU_WS6

iTrader: (6)

Ah nice, I remember reading this one a while back but didnt think too much of it. I may look into this along with relocating the rear shock. I'm doing a 9" soon and I work at a machine shop, so it shouldnt be too difficult.

Greatwhitet/a

iTrader: (1)

Temple,
Upon further reading and research. A few people have done this-simply welded and extension yielding an inch or more travel, or bilstein actually makes a shorter shock for lowered cars. Seems to gain you about 3/4" of travel. I have not been able to find an actual bolt in adapter tho. They may extensions for the threaded shaft, but it would not achieve the desired result(actually would take more out of the stroke.

Greatwhitet/a

iTrader: (1)

FASTFATBOY said, "I made a plate on my LT1 car and welded it to the factory shock mount, braced it on the side. Lowered the shock mount about 1.25 inches.
Made it out of 1/8 plate."

00 Trans am suggested, "Another option is to move the upper shock mount. You can drill out the hole, weld some brackets in the cup, screw on a rod end to the shock, and mount it."

Wrd1972 "I took the stock shocks, removed the boots and hardware, chucked the shaft-end up in a drill press (cause I aint got a damn lathe) and used a carbide bit and a sliding vice (to hold the bit) to machine the shock shafts down an additional 3/4". Then cut 3/4" off the end o the shaft, thread the end down additional 3/4" and ground flat spots back on the tip for a tiny wrench. In fact my machined shaft to hardened washer clearances are now tighter than what was originally done for this new shock so I have nothing to fear. It took me less than 30 minutes to mod both shocks. BTW, no welding required.
This will allow the rearend to droop 3/4" less when lifted off the ground and I have zero worry of it afecting road conditions. May have to machine a little more, I have not installed them on the car yet"

Per 99Bluz28 The shorter bilsteins are #24-010214 shocks which have about a 3/4" shorter extended length (then the HD bilsteins) for use with lowering springs.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/bsn-24-010214

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

Solution looking for a problem.

Greatwhitet/a

iTrader: (1)

Probably a good point, sam. Any suggestions?

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

For what? The rear shocks don't have a stroke issue. Look at how short they are when full compressed vs. where they are compressed when the axle is pretty well smashed on the bumpstops.

Greatwhitet/a

iTrader: (1)

Sam, I am sure you wouldn't recommend this, but I am real low. As in 1/4" from the rear stops, so to keep from riding on them. They are removed. Hence the topic. Just trying to think outside the box a little. I understand our cars are not great as for going this low, but I like the look....and I want the ride. I am asking for the Fbody impossible...

99Bluz28

iTrader: (35)

FYI, moving the lower shock mount hole down lower is NOT needed at all. You'll run into clearance issues with the stock 10bolt rear long before you need to move the lower shock mount position; at least with the Koni SA shocks. Here's my car with Koni SA rear shocks and when I still had the factory 10bolt rear, and the shocks still have some more compression travel.

Greatwhitet/a

iTrader: (1)

Hmmm...Looks like the issue maybe more with the shocks themselves than the travel in my case then. I am not near that low. What are you binding on in the picture, 99Bluz28?

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

Like I said... a solution looking for a problem.

99Bluz28

iTrader: (35)

This is with the air spring s full deflated and with shock shaft mounted Ground Control bumpstops. My car has no clearance issues sitting at that height (1/8" up to 1/4" clearance), but I never drove it that low. I also had to work with my exhaust guy to get the over-axle pipe tucked up to where I would still have 1/8" clearance at this parked height. My suggestion is that you remove your rear springs, then slowly let the car sit completely on the factory bumpstops then thoroughly check your clearance with the TA, Exhaust, rear end, and body and then adjusting any possible clearance issues before attempting to go with shock shaft mounted bumpstops.