Overtightened Tie Rod End - Still OK?
#1
Overtightened Tie Rod End - Still OK?
In the process of replacing my stock shocks and installing BMR lowering springs on a 99 Z28 and while reconnecting my outer tie rod end I over-tightened the castle nut because...well...I'm a bone head.
I separated the pieces again but when I re-installed to the correct torque, the castle nut is now about 1/4" below the hole for the cotter pin to do any good. So I'm wondering if:
A) I can just install steel washers below the castle nut so the cotter pin holds once tightened
B) I can use a jam nut above the castle nut and not worry about the cotter pin
C) I should replace the tie rod end with a new one since I have obviously compressed the rod a little too much and they aren't that expensive.
These are the original tie rod ends and they seem to still be tight. The dust boot was broken so I'm putting in red poly ones from energy suspension(?) and repacking it with synthetic grease.
Since I'm going to need a wheel alignment when I'm done I'd rather not do it twice since I won't pay to have the alignment shop install them if they tell me they're bad.
Thoughts, opinions, or sarcastic comments laughing at my stupidity are all welcome. Thanks.
I separated the pieces again but when I re-installed to the correct torque, the castle nut is now about 1/4" below the hole for the cotter pin to do any good. So I'm wondering if:
A) I can just install steel washers below the castle nut so the cotter pin holds once tightened
B) I can use a jam nut above the castle nut and not worry about the cotter pin
C) I should replace the tie rod end with a new one since I have obviously compressed the rod a little too much and they aren't that expensive.
These are the original tie rod ends and they seem to still be tight. The dust boot was broken so I'm putting in red poly ones from energy suspension(?) and repacking it with synthetic grease.
Since I'm going to need a wheel alignment when I'm done I'd rather not do it twice since I won't pay to have the alignment shop install them if they tell me they're bad.
Thoughts, opinions, or sarcastic comments laughing at my stupidity are all welcome. Thanks.
#2
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The thought here is what makes you think that you over tighten the nut. Is it just the position of the nut or you know you actually streched it that much? If you managed to strech it that far with out snaping I would replace. Some aftermarket ends are normally this way and require a washer under nut.
#3
I'm pretty sure it was over-tightened since where the castle nut stopped before and where it stops now when torqued are pretty different after my muscle man impersonation. Different enough that the cotter pin would be useless at this point where it was exactly where it needed to be before I started.
Since the torque spec is 35ish and I was shooting for 81 (it was late...I was tired and wasn't thinking straight when I read the wrong number) I'm sure I over did it.
I'm surprised that it didn't snap if that's possible. I just thought I decreased (deformed) the width of the wedge pin by forcing it up into the arm...hadn't even considered that it was more of a stretching scenario. If that's true then perhaps it needs to be replaced.
Since the torque spec is 35ish and I was shooting for 81 (it was late...I was tired and wasn't thinking straight when I read the wrong number) I'm sure I over did it.
I'm surprised that it didn't snap if that's possible. I just thought I decreased (deformed) the width of the wedge pin by forcing it up into the arm...hadn't even considered that it was more of a stretching scenario. If that's true then perhaps it needs to be replaced.
#6
Thanks guys...I put it back together last night with 2 washers with the thought of just getting it done so I can move on to the other side. She really feels tight but the more I think about it the more I'm worried about it failing. 110,000 miles on the originals so there's really no reason to push it...especially since they are pretty inexpensive to replace.
I'm repainting everything while I'm in there (calipers, steering knuckles, tie rods, etc) so guess I'll get the new ends ordered while I work on the drivers side since it will take a few days for me to get the pieces and parts cleaned, prepped, painted and reassembled anyway.
Are the Moog ends the ones everybody recommends for the FBodies or is there another alternative that would be alright?
I'm repainting everything while I'm in there (calipers, steering knuckles, tie rods, etc) so guess I'll get the new ends ordered while I work on the drivers side since it will take a few days for me to get the pieces and parts cleaned, prepped, painted and reassembled anyway.
Are the Moog ends the ones everybody recommends for the FBodies or is there another alternative that would be alright?